Need help with my rear hatch release
#16
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Location: Scottsdale, Az
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Looks like the lower latch needs to be removed to gain access to install zip ties on the tongue. Yes, I had also removed the wire off of the bottom. Wont lift out.
#17
Electron Wrangler
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Alan
#19
Instructor
Hey Zonster:
I think you were referring this hatch related post. You can always try the plastic water bottle shims 1st. I had the exact same problem, but following that thread, I was able to shimmy "something" there to make it work. Mine just happens to be a piece of bottle bottle.
I think you were referring this hatch related post. You can always try the plastic water bottle shims 1st. I had the exact same problem, but following that thread, I was able to shimmy "something" there to make it work. Mine just happens to be a piece of bottle bottle.
#20
Electron Wrangler
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The picture is my car - the lower hatch receiver has never been out.
I don't recall it being super difficult, it may help to remove the rubber bumper, the release motor must come out completely and then use the free actuator arm to move the cam. Pre bend the zip ties to help and use needle nose pliers & picks - I have several including 90 degree types of both - but don't recall what I used.
From what I do recall it wasn't really easy but it wasn't really hard either. I do remember the things I never want to have to do again - and this wasn't one of them...
Alan
I don't recall it being super difficult, it may help to remove the rubber bumper, the release motor must come out completely and then use the free actuator arm to move the cam. Pre bend the zip ties to help and use needle nose pliers & picks - I have several including 90 degree types of both - but don't recall what I used.
From what I do recall it wasn't really easy but it wasn't really hard either. I do remember the things I never want to have to do again - and this wasn't one of them...
Alan
Last edited by Alan; 04-02-2012 at 08:07 PM.
#21
Race Car
I just did this and it took me 15 minutes. I removed the motor and the lower latch, then added 4 zip ties. Half of those 15 minutes was me trying to put the lower latch back in, but no big deal. My latch used to not open sometimes, but now it pops much easier.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#25
Race Car
You only need to replace the lower hatch receiver insert if it is visibly worn. Mine is still fine, so I left it in place. To remove the lower receiver, all you need to do is disconnect the actuator arm from the motor, remove the two allen bolts from the top and pull out. Don't pull too far because there is a wire connection at the bottom. It won't go straight out, you will need to pull it at an angle. The motor is held in place with two 10mm bolts. If you want to remove the motor, remember the position of the two bolts so you can put the motor back in the same place. Remember to disconnect the electrical connector for the motor before removal.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#26
Rennlist Member
What's the latest on the availability of these inserts and who's selling them? Roger had them a few years ago, but I think quit selling them, then Jerry developed one as I remember, but havn't heard anything about them lately. I need one for my 89.
#29
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Well I did get the hatch release working today, by using the zip tie technique.
I have a new problem though, The little nylon grommet at the bottom of the release arm, that the motor snaps into, broke.
Also, the cam that the zip ties wrap around looks like its been modified, or is broken.
I dont know if I can buy just these 2 parts separately, or if I would need to buy the entire hatch release mechanism to get them.
I have a new problem though, The little nylon grommet at the bottom of the release arm, that the motor snaps into, broke.
Also, the cam that the zip ties wrap around looks like its been modified, or is broken.
I dont know if I can buy just these 2 parts separately, or if I would need to buy the entire hatch release mechanism to get them.
#30
Rennlist Member
I suspect you cant buy those bits alone. Only alternative might be if the ball conecting snap-in is used elsewhere, even on anything not connected with autos.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k