Rick,



Where to look?..............hmmmmm………

First- under the hood.

Second- under the carpet.

Third- under the dash.

Fourth- under th…………..oh, you’re serious!!



Shortcut- first check that the coolant temp sensor connector is securely pushed down on the sensor (on the front top of the engine, behind where the thermostat housing is). This connector will kill any 928 dead and has stopped me more than once (mine is now tie-wrapped in place).



Schematic is attached. I’m assuming no spark out of either side (you’ve checked at least one plug from both distributors). If true, chances are good that both coils or both distributors or both trigger units didn’t fail at the same time. Common possibilities are: Ignition switch, intake air temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, crank angle sensor, EFZ Unit.



1. Start with checking battery voltage on each coil with the key ON (run position). This is the small black wire on the coil. Should be battery voltage (to ground) 12-13 volts. No voltage?

2. Follow the source back to connector Q, pins 11 & 12 (under the relay panel). No Voltage?

3. Check for voltage on connector B, pin 11 (power from the ignition switch). No Voltage?

4. Check for voltage on ignition switch connector pin 15 (key on power). No Voltage?

5. Check for voltage on ignition switch pin 30 (battery power). No voltage?

6. Check power wiring from battery to ignition switch.



If you have voltage on the coil, make sure that it is there while cranking- the ignition switch could be faulty. If the voltage is OK at the coils, it is in the ignition circuit, which is harder to troubleshoot due to the electronics (no points).

1. The timing is detected by a crank angle sensor (RPM and reference mark transmitter). This is a two conductor shielded cable- I think the sensor is on top of the bell housing behind the airbox. Check for some resistance across the sensor at the EZF connector (unplugged) pins 7 & 19. It should be a few hundred ohms. I’ve never changed one of these, but it looks terrible to get to.

2. Check the resistance and connectors on the two temp sensors- pins 10 & 22 for the intake air, and pins 23 to 12 (ground) they should each have a few hundred ohms at the connector of the EZF Unit..

3. Test for battery voltage on pin 4 of each of the ignition trigger units (mounted near the hood latch in front). Also check for a good ground on pin 2 (brown wire) of each.

4. Check the continuity of the signal wire from pin 1 of each trigger unit to its respective coil (black/brown wire). Should be 0 ohms.

5. The only other wire to check is the shielded wire going to pin 5 of the trigger unit back to the EZF Ignition Control Unit mounted in the right footwell of the passengers compartment. The schematic shows a 2 pin connector in this run but I don’t know where it is. You can only check for continuity on these wires since the signal is very low-level and very fast. They end up on the EZF connector pins 1 & 13. Look for broken or corroded wires, connections, etc.

6. If that’s OK, it may be the EZF Unit itself (UGH!!)

7. Let me know what you find.

8. Hope this helps.