Cutting wheel studs :(
03-10-2012, 11:05 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Cutting wheel studs :(
Well I was hoping to not cut them, but my wheels are so deep the studs stick out way too much for me to ever be happy with the look.
A couple of the rear studs are damaged so I guess cutting them will eliminate the damaged portion, so that's a bonus. One of the lugs was extremely hard to remove, once off the lug looked twisted, most likely from being over torqued with an impact wrench.
Another one looks like it was niked by a grinder, I really don't even want to know why a grinder was ever in there!
I was wondering if anyone has any tips on how to cut the studs. I don't want to use a grinder as it's just to gorilla. I was thinking of using my dremel with a thin cut off wheel (probably many of them as they will dull fast), hack saw or my saw's all with a fine blade. I assume that after cutting I will need to feather the edge slightly to allow a smooth thread transition at the end of the stud.
Oh and note to self, do not ever again head out when it's 5c with fresh summer rubber and hit the gas on a corner. Good thing no cops were is sight, that bitch slid like mother ****er!
A couple of the rear studs are damaged so I guess cutting them will eliminate the damaged portion, so that's a bonus. One of the lugs was extremely hard to remove, once off the lug looked twisted, most likely from being over torqued with an impact wrench.
Another one looks like it was niked by a grinder, I really don't even want to know why a grinder was ever in there!
I was wondering if anyone has any tips on how to cut the studs. I don't want to use a grinder as it's just to gorilla. I was thinking of using my dremel with a thin cut off wheel (probably many of them as they will dull fast), hack saw or my saw's all with a fine blade. I assume that after cutting I will need to feather the edge slightly to allow a smooth thread transition at the end of the stud.
Oh and note to self, do not ever again head out when it's 5c with fresh summer rubber and hit the gas on a corner. Good thing no cops were is sight, that bitch slid like mother ****er!
03-10-2012, 11:21 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Here is what I think I would do: Decide on your length, put a metric nut on your stud leaving the correct length covered. Use a grinder or Dremel and cut on the surface of the nut. Remove the nut and move to the next stud.
Good luck,
Dave
Good luck,
Dave
03-10-2012, 11:21 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
dont be crazy, just take off the hub and press , pound out the studs, it will take just as long and it wil work a lot better too!
why are they so long. whish i had them in the rear of mine, rather than that bolt on spacer!
why are they so long. whish i had them in the rear of mine, rather than that bolt on spacer!
03-10-2012, 11:23 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
That's a great idea, I never thought of putting a nut on. That's a great way to protect the stud. I love this forum!
03-10-2012, 11:31 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Kibbort's got the right idea. By the time you get the custom job done and done right, you're probably better off just to use shorter studs.
03-10-2012, 11:33 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Oh, and if you go with the "Kibbort solution", be sure to back the nut off the stud a turn or so, and bash away on the nut not the stud. That way you'll have bits for the parts box when you're done.
Trending Topics
03-10-2012, 11:50 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I cut my studs when I went to custome wheels, deleting the spacers.
Don't listen to Kibort. If you try to replace the studs, you must remove the axle. That destroys the wheel bearings (ask me how I know).
The studs are M14x1.5, I bought a die, screwed it on the stud down to the length I wanted then cut off the excess with a high speed cutting wheel. You could also use a dremel but it will be a lot slower. After the stud is cut off, back the die off which cleans up the cut edge. Then chamfer the end of the stud with a fine tooth file. The job took just a few hours, but was much easier than replacing the studs.
Don't listen to Kibort. If you try to replace the studs, you must remove the axle. That destroys the wheel bearings (ask me how I know).
The studs are M14x1.5, I bought a die, screwed it on the stud down to the length I wanted then cut off the excess with a high speed cutting wheel. You could also use a dremel but it will be a lot slower. After the stud is cut off, back the die off which cleans up the cut edge. Then chamfer the end of the stud with a fine tooth file. The job took just a few hours, but was much easier than replacing the studs.
03-11-2012, 12:31 AM
#10
Rennlist Member
I cut my studs when I went to custome wheels, deleting the spacers.
Don't listen to Kibort. If you try to replace the studs, you must remove the axle. That destroys the wheel bearings (ask me how I know).
The studs are M14x1.5, I bought a die, screwed it on the stud down to the length I wanted then cut off the excess with a high speed cutting wheel. You could also use a dremel but it will be a lot slower. After the stud is cut off, back the die off which cleans up the cut edge. Then chamfer the end of the stud with a fine tooth file. The job took just a few hours, but was much easier than replacing the studs.
Don't listen to Kibort. If you try to replace the studs, you must remove the axle. That destroys the wheel bearings (ask me how I know).
The studs are M14x1.5, I bought a die, screwed it on the stud down to the length I wanted then cut off the excess with a high speed cutting wheel. You could also use a dremel but it will be a lot slower. After the stud is cut off, back the die off which cleans up the cut edge. Then chamfer the end of the stud with a fine tooth file. The job took just a few hours, but was much easier than replacing the studs.
how did you get such long studs anyway???
03-11-2012, 01:13 AM
#13
Can't you fit the 255's on the rear with the spacers on? With 45 offset they will be close, mine with 55 offset still have about 15 mm to the fender, so yours should be about 5 mm.
If they are too far out with the factory spacer, maybe try buying a 15 mm spacer that slips on and the nut should still be deep enough to tighten on OK. This will keep you from having to cut the studs.
The later "S" cars come from the factory with 21 mm slip on spacers and long wheel studs.
If they are too far out with the factory spacer, maybe try buying a 15 mm spacer that slips on and the nut should still be deep enough to tighten on OK. This will keep you from having to cut the studs.
The later "S" cars come from the factory with 21 mm slip on spacers and long wheel studs.
03-11-2012, 01:16 AM
#14
Former Vendor
Harbor Freight: One 90 degree 1/4" die grinder and one 90 degree die grinder.
McMaster Carr: 3" cut-off wheels 1/32" thick. Mandrel to hold cut-off wheels. (actually, this might come with the die grinder from harbor freight.) 2" 36 grit sanding discs (rollox style) and 2" rollox scotch brite pads. Mandrel to hold discs.
Use the straight die grinder with the cut-off wheels. It will cut through the studs like they are butter. Easy to hold straight. I throw away the "shields" that come with these grinders, so I can "see" the cut-off wheels better. Use safety glasses....or better yet, a safety face shield.
Use the 90 degree die grinder with the sanding disc to smooth and make the end of the studs perfectly flat. Use the scotch brite pads to smooth down and polish the ends of the studs. You can use the pads to gently "break" the leading edge, so that the nuts start perfectly.
These tools with those attachments belong in everyone's tool box. You will use them hundreds of times, for hundreds of projects. Do not use the scotch brite pads to remove gaskets, like many "professional hacks" do!
McMaster Carr: 3" cut-off wheels 1/32" thick. Mandrel to hold cut-off wheels. (actually, this might come with the die grinder from harbor freight.) 2" 36 grit sanding discs (rollox style) and 2" rollox scotch brite pads. Mandrel to hold discs.
Use the straight die grinder with the cut-off wheels. It will cut through the studs like they are butter. Easy to hold straight. I throw away the "shields" that come with these grinders, so I can "see" the cut-off wheels better. Use safety glasses....or better yet, a safety face shield.
Use the 90 degree die grinder with the sanding disc to smooth and make the end of the studs perfectly flat. Use the scotch brite pads to smooth down and polish the ends of the studs. You can use the pads to gently "break" the leading edge, so that the nuts start perfectly.
These tools with those attachments belong in everyone's tool box. You will use them hundreds of times, for hundreds of projects. Do not use the scotch brite pads to remove gaskets, like many "professional hacks" do!
03-11-2012, 03:28 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
Can't you fit the 255's on the rear with the spacers on? With 45 offset they will be close, mine with 55 offset still have about 15 mm to the fender, so yours should be about 5 mm.
If they are too far out with the factory spacer, maybe try buying a 15 mm spacer that slips on and the nut should still be deep enough to tighten on OK. This will keep you from having to cut the studs.
The later "S" cars come from the factory with 21 mm slip on spacers and long wheel studs.
If they are too far out with the factory spacer, maybe try buying a 15 mm spacer that slips on and the nut should still be deep enough to tighten on OK. This will keep you from having to cut the studs.
The later "S" cars come from the factory with 21 mm slip on spacers and long wheel studs.