hb4

Will do, Adam. It's a freshly rebuilt one from Cascade Torque Converters. I'm out of town but back on Tuesday and will take a photo then.

supercedar

Bill,

Gretchen helped me get this for you, hope it helps.

At the bottom area of the primary pump notch there is a noticeable ridge that can be easily felt the entire circumference of the snout. Let us know if you need anymore pictures.
Thomas

atb

The ridge of death. Thanks for posting the pic Thomas.
We had another local owner go through a similar situation. He got another TC and problem solved.
Bill, I'll send you his contact info so you can get details. I seem to recall that the ridge was barely visible, but you could definitely feel it. The replacement didn't have it.

hb4

Haven't posted progress for a week or so; Thomas (Supercedar) and I have been hard at work tearing things apart again, doing repairs and upgrades, and putting it back together.

And just a shout out to Thomas for helping me lo these several months. It's pretty amazing when someone with real skills helps a rank amateur like me. It's been great fun working with him, and has made the experience being in the 928 community a great one.

This thread had recently taken a veer towards transmission leakage, and I am happy to report that after this last week of or so of R&R, we finally have a dry transmission. It was the Primary Pump gasket. Should have replaced it the first time, but since it was stuck to the Pump and there were horror stories about scraping it off and damaging the pump, and since it looked good from the side we could see, I decided to leave it.

After taking everything apart and peeled off the gasket (it came off just fine), we found some old thread sealant under it:


Which was reflected in the gasket:


And allowed fluid to move out:


I spoke to a local transmission shop, Casey's in Puyallup, and they suggested that the slow and decreasing leak could be due to the transmission heating up and expanding to allow the old gasket to seal, more or less.

We ordered all new seals and O-ring plus a new gasket for the second assembly, and the shop recommended using a 'Lip Wizard'! and some slick, slippery, stringy lubricant applied to the metal parts to allow us to install the small lip seal in the pump (we destroyed the seal the last time we put the pump together and had to use the old seal that was much softer. The shop also recommended a anaerobic sealer, Loctitite 315, for the pump bolts because some of the thread sockets are open to the pressure side of the trans. I couldn't find where that was the case, but used it anyway; figured it couldn't hurt.

hb4

Now back to the vibration issue:

We installed Constantine's bearings, but the vibration did not go away. Very disappointing. We went looking for places where the engine parts touched the body and found a couple:

The oil coolant line rubs the alternator; we temporarily placed a small piece of hose to separate them until we can drain the radiator to get to the fitting that will allow us to rotate the coolant line away from the alternator.


The AC line that routes forward out of the back of the compressor rubs against a clamp for the transmission coolant lines. We put a small piece of hose to separate them; but the only way I can see to provide clearance is to rotate the compressor away by using a smaller belt. Unfortunately, the belt is already the smaller of the two, and to compound the issue the angled bracket for the adjuster is nearly touching the top of the oil pan.

Looking for suggestions for this one.

Black Sea RD

Hi Bill,

Sorry to hear you still have vibration issues!

This was a possibility that I worried about since your symptoms didn't really seem TT related. But at least the TT has been removed as a possible source.

I hope you find the root cause of your vibration issues.

Kind regards,

Bill Ball

Argh! You've found and fixed so many things that SHOULD have contributed (bad TC, loose flexplate bolts, etc.) that you must be pretty frustrated. The fact that there is no vibration with the front flexplate removed from the flywheel should directly implicate the TT or TC, although you are running the motor without any load in this case, so it could be something forward, like you are investigating now. There was another thread, maybe already brought up, where a 3000 RPM vibration turned out to be injectors.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...vibes-man.html

the flyin' scotsman

That was my experience with working on a 87 S4.......the 'rebuilt' FIs caused such a vibration the car was undriveable..........swapped in new injectors.......perfect smooth engine and no vibes at any rpm.

hb4

Yes, I've read that bad injectors can do this. Since I had the vibrations with the original injectors and still have it with the new (used) 24# injectors, I figure I'll pursue some other avenues first. Certainly on the list, however.

I'm wondering whether pinching the engine between the body on each side with the hose pieces would be sufficient to dampen things. There's one on each side, so the engine is really locked to the body except for those <1/8" pieces of hard rubber.

On the AC compressor side, it seems like every car would have that condition since the rear fitting from the compressor is fixed (I think) as is the clamp for the trans cooler lines. I'll have to look at that one again.

Bill Ball

OK, so, you've already swapped injectors. Oh, well. I agree I don't like the motor or accessories touching any of the fixed hardparts around it. I would try to move them away.

the flyin' scotsman

was the intake off for r&r? The car I worked on with the very bad vibes at 3k rpm was refreshed with everything new except the FIs which were used Ford 4 hole pintle style. I then removed these FIs only for a pintle cap to fall off and the owner decided to remoe the intake one more time to retrieve then reinstall everything with brand new 19lb Ford 4 hole FIs.
Nothing was changed or replaced between the 2 intake removals except the FIs and the car is now perfect.
If you access to known good 19lb injectors its easy install them to be sure vs the driveline work IMHO.

Kevin R.

MY 1990

I may have missed it but I saw no one mention having vibration at idle. You just sit in the seat and feel it. When you open the door and hold onto the pull handle it vibrates right through there.

At speed (almost anything above idle RPM), it goes away. I purchased a torque tube bearing and bearing sleeves kit years ago and have never installed it. I always thought that was the main source of excess vibration at idle.

Any further experience from anyone on this issue at idle, like myself.

SMTCapeCod

There must've been an end to this saga...

Speedtoys

HB: I thought I sent you a note on this..
But we BOTH had an annoying 3k rattle.

I was forced to replace my front accessory pullys, not the harmonic, but the two belt ones.


It went away.


I can definitely see a vibration way up front, would need to be connected to the rest of the rotating driveline, to really broadcast itself.

Mine never FELT up front, felt just like yours did.

hb4

No solution to mine, so far. It only bothers me when I'm cruising at 80; haven't done that since this summer's caravan to the NW track day. I'll certainly follow up on your experience, Jeff, plus a few other tests. If that doesn't work I'll take Colin's offer and zip up to BC for a consult.