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Welded Intermediate Plate - Awesome

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Old 02-21-2012, 04:20 PM
  #31  
Tom. M
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Originally Posted by Lizard931
I have thought about this too. But this will require more parts to be made.
Among these I am thinking an aluminum intermediate plate with two friction surfaces.
I mean what if you just removed the "H"... would the int. plate oscillate too much when released?
Old 02-21-2012, 04:24 PM
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Lizard928
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Tom, the spring would hold it too far backwards and drag the rear disc.
Additionally, the stock intermediate plate is too much mass
Old 02-21-2012, 08:59 PM
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mark kibort
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Originally Posted by atb
My OB track car has always had a crunchy gear box. Would not go into reverse or first without serious grindage, would not take downshift at speed on the track without serious grindage unless you had a perfect rev match, basically wrote it off as another worn out OB tranny.
Just finished the install of the 4.7L and figured I'd follow Kibort's mod of permanently setting the intermediate plate. Kibort uses dowel pins,but Colin does the same mod with tack welds. Ken Osage was kind enough to handle the welding duties. Basically, he set in the appropriate feeler gauge into the adjusters, tacked the adjuster, then removed the feeler gauges.
Today, fired up the 4.7L for the first time, the car easily clicked into reverse and first like a brand new tranny. It is impossible to believe this is the same tranny as what has always been in the car. I can't help but believe there are so many double disc clutch owners that are needlessly living in frustration when this easy fix is available.
This truly works.
Awesome! the INT was one of the things i never could figure out until we had that last debate and I really started to think about how it worked. once we all figured it out, it was so so clear. adjust, pin , weld or bolt it down, and you are good. just dont burn the clutch discs up, but they usually last a long long time.
Old 02-21-2012, 09:06 PM
  #34  
mark kibort
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Originally Posted by Lizard931
The flat spring has no effect on forward travel Tom.

If one removed the H adjusters and removed 2 tabs off it and then welded it on the problem would disappear.
I dont quite understand what you are saying. the front tabs yes, do very little, as the plate just has to move forward to allow the main pressure plate to apply pressure to the stack on the flywheel. if there were no tabs forward, nothing would be effected. its only the rear tabs that hold the secret. just enough space to allow the intermeadaite plate to move rear ward and release pressure on the fllyweel, but not too much where it allows the flat sprigns to push the int plate rearward and contact the presusure plate surface.

1mm gap does the trick. any more and you run the risk of the IINT plate riding rearward and not allowing the release of the driveshaft from the flywheel
the gap, obviolsly has to be done while the clutch is installed , thats the variable.



Originally Posted by Tom. M
Hmm....wonder what would happen if you did this? Anyone care to experiment...
Old 02-21-2012, 09:07 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Lizard931
The flat spring has no effect on forward travel Tom.

If one removed the H adjusters and removed 2 tabs off it and then welded it on the problem would disappear.
I dont quite understand what you are saying. the front tabs yes, do very little, as the plate just has to move forward to allow the main pressure plate to apply pressure to the stack on the flywheel. if there were no tabs forward, nothing would be effected. its only the rear tabs that hold the secret. just enough space to allow the intermeadaite plate to move rear ward and release pressure on the fllyweel, but not too much where it allows the flat sprigns to push the int plate rearward and contact the presusure plate surface.

1mm gap does the trick. any more and you run the risk of the IINT plate riding rearward and not allowing the release of the driveshaft from the flywheel
the gap, obviolsly has to be done while the clutch is installed , thats the variable.



Originally Posted by Tom. M
Hmm....wonder what would happen if you did this? Anyone care to experiment...
again, it wouldnt do anything. front tabs are not needed
Old 02-21-2012, 09:10 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Tom. M
I mean what if you just removed the "H"... would the int. plate oscillate too much when released?
oh god yes! with no stop rear ward, the rear disc woudl be pressed by the flat spring pressure to the prssure plate.

the reason the H tabs move is that the only thing holding the inermediate plate in position , IS the flat springs. so, the INT can wobble and put tremendous pressure on the H tabs under high rpm and move their positions. you need the H stop rear ward, for the dual disc to function properly. its mandatory in our design.
Old 02-21-2012, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by atb
I didn't do Mark Robinson's check where I actuated the clutch remotely and moved the adjusters until I had equal space around each disc. (then marked and tacked them). I just set to factory spec and tacked them. I wonder if maybe Porsche over designed this by making the I/P adjustable. The true test will be when one of us (Kibort are you listening?) with a fixed in place I/P starts to experience clutch problems due to the I/P not adjusting. I get the feeling it may be a while. I haven't see a lot of 928 clutch discs, but the ones I have seen come out of cars (both single or double) have always surprised me by how little visual wear they have. I wonder if maybe the 928 is easy enough on the discs that maybe the adjustment issue may not be a (major) issue.

Anyway, just wanted to share my experience with this fix out there. I think its a good one for the owner who does his own wrenching. On my $500 OB track car, it was a no-brainer.
the way you did it and the way i did it will be fine, only until you get 1mm of wear on the front disc. then, the INT plate wont go forward enough to make contact, pinned or welded in position. however, one idea is to just remove those tabs then its perminant, no matter what the wear. actually , hmmmm, with a lot of wear, then there is a bigger gap on the rear H adjuster so there might be some contact. Anyway, i had pulled a 10 year old clutch, used in racing and still saw the printing of the serial numbers on the discs. they are pretty tough if you drive right. if not, then after 10 years, you replace the discs. heck, better than dropping $700 on a new INT plate! but, i dont see that ever happening to my clutch.
Old 02-21-2012, 09:20 PM
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my way and adams way, requires NO removal of the clutch. it does the same thing as the fancy bolt, but there is no adustment needed if you do it right and it will be fine for the life of the clutch. if you ever wear the clutch down to the rivits, there are other things you will need to be doing , not the INT plate!
Old 02-21-2012, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BC
The adjustment PRIOR to pinning - how was this accomplished?
you just adjust and then pin. no driving, or fuss. .75 to 1mm is all you need. just enough to release pressure off the front disc. any gap visually you can see will work. that way, as it wears you wont have an issue with the INT moving foward to contact the flywheel

Originally Posted by BC
Obviously. I am talking about prior to welding but AFTER driving the car. On a really bad plate, it moves around.
yes, we have bad plates, they would last driving around , but not racing racing beats up the INT as in any vibration will allow the INT to be resting on the H tabs and move them like little jack hamers. this is the only way they wear, not by the act of stoppig the INT under pedal pressure and movement

Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Obviously, Porsche could have done this, directly from the factory....but then what would happen when the clutch discs wore? (The "H" stop will no longer allow the intermediate plate to apply pressure to the disc against the flywheel, if it can't move.)

That's why they made them adjustable....

When the "H" pieces and rivets wear to the point where the "H" piece moves easily....replacing the intermediate plate will fix the problem.
yep, as we both figured out.
but there is no problem if you dont wear the clutch discs out. this is why its such a great fix for a bad INT. wait until its bad and then fix it on the car. worst case if you screw it up, you pull it. best case you fix the problem in a half an hour perminantly.



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