Welded Intermediate Plate - Awesome
#31
#33
Rennlist Member
My OB track car has always had a crunchy gear box. Would not go into reverse or first without serious grindage, would not take downshift at speed on the track without serious grindage unless you had a perfect rev match, basically wrote it off as another worn out OB tranny.
Just finished the install of the 4.7L and figured I'd follow Kibort's mod of permanently setting the intermediate plate. Kibort uses dowel pins,but Colin does the same mod with tack welds. Ken Osage was kind enough to handle the welding duties. Basically, he set in the appropriate feeler gauge into the adjusters, tacked the adjuster, then removed the feeler gauges.
Today, fired up the 4.7L for the first time, the car easily clicked into reverse and first like a brand new tranny. It is impossible to believe this is the same tranny as what has always been in the car. I can't help but believe there are so many double disc clutch owners that are needlessly living in frustration when this easy fix is available.
This truly works.
Just finished the install of the 4.7L and figured I'd follow Kibort's mod of permanently setting the intermediate plate. Kibort uses dowel pins,but Colin does the same mod with tack welds. Ken Osage was kind enough to handle the welding duties. Basically, he set in the appropriate feeler gauge into the adjusters, tacked the adjuster, then removed the feeler gauges.
Today, fired up the 4.7L for the first time, the car easily clicked into reverse and first like a brand new tranny. It is impossible to believe this is the same tranny as what has always been in the car. I can't help but believe there are so many double disc clutch owners that are needlessly living in frustration when this easy fix is available.
This truly works.
#34
Rennlist Member
1mm gap does the trick. any more and you run the risk of the IINT plate riding rearward and not allowing the release of the driveshaft from the flywheel
the gap, obviolsly has to be done while the clutch is installed , thats the variable.
#35
Rennlist Member
1mm gap does the trick. any more and you run the risk of the IINT plate riding rearward and not allowing the release of the driveshaft from the flywheel
the gap, obviolsly has to be done while the clutch is installed , thats the variable.
again, it wouldnt do anything. front tabs are not needed
#36
Rennlist Member
the reason the H tabs move is that the only thing holding the inermediate plate in position , IS the flat springs. so, the INT can wobble and put tremendous pressure on the H tabs under high rpm and move their positions. you need the H stop rear ward, for the dual disc to function properly. its mandatory in our design.
#37
Rennlist Member
I didn't do Mark Robinson's check where I actuated the clutch remotely and moved the adjusters until I had equal space around each disc. (then marked and tacked them). I just set to factory spec and tacked them. I wonder if maybe Porsche over designed this by making the I/P adjustable. The true test will be when one of us (Kibort are you listening?) with a fixed in place I/P starts to experience clutch problems due to the I/P not adjusting. I get the feeling it may be a while. I haven't see a lot of 928 clutch discs, but the ones I have seen come out of cars (both single or double) have always surprised me by how little visual wear they have. I wonder if maybe the 928 is easy enough on the discs that maybe the adjustment issue may not be a (major) issue.
Anyway, just wanted to share my experience with this fix out there. I think its a good one for the owner who does his own wrenching. On my $500 OB track car, it was a no-brainer.
Anyway, just wanted to share my experience with this fix out there. I think its a good one for the owner who does his own wrenching. On my $500 OB track car, it was a no-brainer.
#38
Rennlist Member
my way and adams way, requires NO removal of the clutch. it does the same thing as the fancy bolt, but there is no adustment needed if you do it right and it will be fine for the life of the clutch. if you ever wear the clutch down to the rivits, there are other things you will need to be doing , not the INT plate!
#39
Rennlist Member
you just adjust and then pin. no driving, or fuss. .75 to 1mm is all you need. just enough to release pressure off the front disc. any gap visually you can see will work. that way, as it wears you wont have an issue with the INT moving foward to contact the flywheel
yes, we have bad plates, they would last driving around , but not racing racing beats up the INT as in any vibration will allow the INT to be resting on the H tabs and move them like little jack hamers. this is the only way they wear, not by the act of stoppig the INT under pedal pressure and movement
yep, as we both figured out.
but there is no problem if you dont wear the clutch discs out. this is why its such a great fix for a bad INT. wait until its bad and then fix it on the car. worst case if you screw it up, you pull it. best case you fix the problem in a half an hour perminantly.
Obviously, Porsche could have done this, directly from the factory....but then what would happen when the clutch discs wore? (The "H" stop will no longer allow the intermediate plate to apply pressure to the disc against the flywheel, if it can't move.)
That's why they made them adjustable....
When the "H" pieces and rivets wear to the point where the "H" piece moves easily....replacing the intermediate plate will fix the problem.
That's why they made them adjustable....
When the "H" pieces and rivets wear to the point where the "H" piece moves easily....replacing the intermediate plate will fix the problem.
but there is no problem if you dont wear the clutch discs out. this is why its such a great fix for a bad INT. wait until its bad and then fix it on the car. worst case if you screw it up, you pull it. best case you fix the problem in a half an hour perminantly.