Torque tube
02-12-2012, 10:52 AM
#1
Racer
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Torque tube
I got a reply back from a Craigslist ad I posted inquiring about spare 928 parts. Fellow has a torque tube he says is from an 81 car. Not sure whether it's from a manual or automatic car.
What i didn't find a definative answer for in my search here was what is the changeover year (in length) for an automatic torque tube? If it is an 81 automatic assembly, will it even fit in my 79? If I take a tape measure with me is there an easy length I can reference?
I may buy everything I can use from the guy for spares, just wondering if the torque tube is something I can use when I need it. Thanks.
What i didn't find a definative answer for in my search here was what is the changeover year (in length) for an automatic torque tube? If it is an 81 automatic assembly, will it even fit in my 79? If I take a tape measure with me is there an easy length I can reference?
I may buy everything I can use from the guy for spares, just wondering if the torque tube is something I can use when I need it. Thanks.
02-13-2012, 02:47 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
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All three speed automatic torque tubes are the same. I have never seen one break. If you have one now why not rebuild it. The bearings in any used tube will probably be bad.
Just to be sure use a tape to measure it.
Just to be sure use a tape to measure it.
02-13-2012, 06:51 AM
#4
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Thanks. Yes, I agree that as long as it's out, one might as well rebuild... and that's my intent. If I can get it for "core" price or cheaper... I can rebuild it and swap it in when I go about doing the work. This way I don't end up with spare bolts and washers... and less down time. I might even go with super bearings. : )
02-14-2012, 05:23 AM
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I have a couple three speed torque tubes. where are you located?
As far as super bearings - unless you are adding horse power the standard bearing will last as long as drive the car. Jaeger has repalcement plastic sleeves but you should wait until it is apart before ordering them because yours are probably fine.The bearings can be sourced for under $20. Here is a page on doing the job.
http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te...orque_tube.htm
It really is a lot easier than it seems.
As far as super bearings - unless you are adding horse power the standard bearing will last as long as drive the car. Jaeger has repalcement plastic sleeves but you should wait until it is apart before ordering them because yours are probably fine.The bearings can be sourced for under $20. Here is a page on doing the job.
http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te...orque_tube.htm
It really is a lot easier than it seems.
02-14-2012, 07:50 AM
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Hi Dan,
We designed and engineered the Super Bearings to make them a better replacement option than doing it the old school way, not just for those with increased performance engines.
The Super Bearings make the rebuild process easier, use larger bearings to support the drive shaft and three of them replace the weight of the problem prone vibration dampeners that come apart with age causing more damage in the TT.
Not too mention most of the orginal bearing carriers have lost their ability to stay in their assigned positions since the outer rubber has shrunk. This usually leads to owners having to drill their TTs to place screws in them to hold them in place.
Using the hard plastic/delrin bearing inserts will take their toll on the drive shaft by wearing away the protective coating and even wearing the steel a bit. This is also happening with the original rubber/steel inserts which we show on our website. Just about every TT we rebuild has a drive shaft with worn rings, or worse, on them.
And the cost of our Super Bearings is very reasonable for what someone gets.
Cheers,
We designed and engineered the Super Bearings to make them a better replacement option than doing it the old school way, not just for those with increased performance engines.
The Super Bearings make the rebuild process easier, use larger bearings to support the drive shaft and three of them replace the weight of the problem prone vibration dampeners that come apart with age causing more damage in the TT.
Not too mention most of the orginal bearing carriers have lost their ability to stay in their assigned positions since the outer rubber has shrunk. This usually leads to owners having to drill their TTs to place screws in them to hold them in place.
Using the hard plastic/delrin bearing inserts will take their toll on the drive shaft by wearing away the protective coating and even wearing the steel a bit. This is also happening with the original rubber/steel inserts which we show on our website. Just about every TT we rebuild has a drive shaft with worn rings, or worse, on them.
And the cost of our Super Bearings is very reasonable for what someone gets.
Cheers,
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02-15-2012, 07:17 AM
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Hi Dan,
Wrong way to think when you are talking about the 928.
Just about any involved work on the 928 will cost more by the time you are done than most 928s are now worth.
And this attitude has a chilling effect on those who might think of standing up more aftermarket products for our 928s.
Cheers,
Wrong way to think when you are talking about the 928.
Just about any involved work on the 928 will cost more by the time you are done than most 928s are now worth.
And this attitude has a chilling effect on those who might think of standing up more aftermarket products for our 928s.
Cheers,
02-16-2012, 04:18 AM
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Constantine,
Yes I agree. I have plans to gold plate my engine. Nothing is too good for my 928
My 78 five speed is running the original torque tube - with no problems. The 85 auto I rebuilt with second source bearing is quite and smooth. Total cost = $25.
There is always a cost benefit trade off. I just do not see that for a three speed auto torque tube that is shorter and does not have the four speed harmonic problem not the thrust bearing drift as being really necessary. Ironically the thinner 4 speed torque shaft for the 84-86 (us 83) has far fewer problems than the thicker S4 shaft. Unless someone is planning to up the horsepower greatly then I do not see your case. Then again if the owner is looking at more horsepower probably getting rid of the lower geared differential and three speed transmission is in order.
Yes I agree. I have plans to gold plate my engine. Nothing is too good for my 928
My 78 five speed is running the original torque tube - with no problems. The 85 auto I rebuilt with second source bearing is quite and smooth. Total cost = $25.
There is always a cost benefit trade off. I just do not see that for a three speed auto torque tube that is shorter and does not have the four speed harmonic problem not the thrust bearing drift as being really necessary. Ironically the thinner 4 speed torque shaft for the 84-86 (us 83) has far fewer problems than the thicker S4 shaft. Unless someone is planning to up the horsepower greatly then I do not see your case. Then again if the owner is looking at more horsepower probably getting rid of the lower geared differential and three speed transmission is in order.
02-16-2012, 08:14 AM
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Hi Dan,
The old parts in the TT are going away and we have given owners another option than doing an old school rebuild. We have gotten rebuilt TTs in and the parts are more or less done.
And did you not read our found problems with using hard plastic inserts wearing the drive shafts?
As for the drive shafts, the 25mm auto drive shafts are not as prone to having shearing problems as the later 28mm auto drive shafts. However we have seen both drive shaft shear. Also many drive shafts we get in have problems now and some we would not use again. That's why we are having new ones made of stronger material.
Guessing we will continue to disagree on how to rebuild TTs.
Cheers,
The old parts in the TT are going away and we have given owners another option than doing an old school rebuild. We have gotten rebuilt TTs in and the parts are more or less done.
And did you not read our found problems with using hard plastic inserts wearing the drive shafts?
As for the drive shafts, the 25mm auto drive shafts are not as prone to having shearing problems as the later 28mm auto drive shafts. However we have seen both drive shaft shear. Also many drive shafts we get in have problems now and some we would not use again. That's why we are having new ones made of stronger material.
Guessing we will continue to disagree on how to rebuild TTs.
Cheers,
02-16-2012, 11:55 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
My car is so tight with the Constantines. When it shifts one would think you were rear ended. It lurches forward smooth and very positive. I know I received value in performance with my purchase. I am sure the stock ones are great at first but I know they degrade quickly as they take the abuse in our cars. Torque is a abusive thrill that we all try to control.
Thomas
Thomas
02-17-2012, 04:59 AM
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If you car is shifting that crisp then the modualtor valve is adjusted incorrectly. Such sudden shifts put stress on the whole system and can eventually snap the torque shaft and shatter the flex plate. Don't ask how I know this.
02-17-2012, 07:02 AM
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Hi Thomas,
Appreciate the good remarks about our products but do agree with Dan that it sounds as if the transmission vacuum modulator is either adjusted incorrectly or more probably, the vacuum line from the engine to the modulator valve has become disconnected.
This happened to me once with my track car. The upshifts felt very harsh and I found the rubber vacuum line from the engine had come off the hard line along the TT right at the front by the flywheel housing.
It does deserve further investigation.
Kind regards,
Appreciate the good remarks about our products but do agree with Dan that it sounds as if the transmission vacuum modulator is either adjusted incorrectly or more probably, the vacuum line from the engine to the modulator valve has become disconnected.
This happened to me once with my track car. The upshifts felt very harsh and I found the rubber vacuum line from the engine had come off the hard line along the TT right at the front by the flywheel housing.
It does deserve further investigation.
Kind regards,