dr bob

The fan support bracket is plenty strong enough for this task. Later (S4+) cars have a steel grab point that's on spacers in the same place, much less substantial than the big casting for the fan.

On the sump gasket-- If you still have the original, it's pretty crispy by now. The bolts for the sump are in need of regular 're-tensioning' as the old gasket dries and shrinks, and this is completely by feel. There are no lockwashers or other locking mechanism for the bolts, so they seem to come loose on their own sometimes. I'm generally of the opinion that I don't want to create a problem where there doesn't seem to be one now, but the opportunity to avoid future leaks is too good when the crossmember is out. Changing the sump gasket adds an hour or so to the whole motor mount job. Starter comes out, and on manual trans cars the clutch slave cylinder comes out. There are a few bolts that are easiest to R&R with a 10mm GearWrench, the rest come out with the 1/4"-drive air ratchet and 10mm socket. You'll want to drain the oil and the filter will come off too for access. Filter out of the way makes it easier to access the upper left-side crossmember bolt too, so get it out early in the project.

There are varying opinions on which sump gasket to use. Some swear by the silicone replacement piece. I've had great luck with the composite type.

tomshark

it is strange that the load does not try to lean backwards and thanks for everyones help i understand now .

tomshark

the one issue i do have in leakage is the top seal on the steering rack is damp . not dripping but damp. does anyone just sell the seal ? i really do not want to have to purchase a whole rebuilt rack.