should i wait to torque the upper and lower arm bolts/nuts till the car is on the ground and "settled"?

and should i lube the hub pin? i had some normal silver anti seize on them when i removed them and it felt, kinda... puddy like. thoughts?

 

Did you ever find bushings for the lower arm?

 

never did. reusing the old ones. seemed in good shape, but new would have been better

 

FWIW, I did final torque on the lower bolts on the ground, and the uppers 'in the air'. And almost everyone would agree put anti-sieze of some kind on the pin.

 

I do the rear suspension bolts in the air. There is no call for doing it on the ground as there is for the rear bracket of the FRONT lower control arms.

 

any thoughts on a good grease for the pin?

 

what Bill said,

be generous with the antiseize on the pin

 

silver or copper either will work

 

Any antiseize should work fine. Here in CA, I haven't had to use any. It's not like I don't drive in the rain, but every time I've pulled the rear pin, it's been corrosion-free. Still, others have reported that these pins seize so badly from corrosion they have had to saw them out, so it seems like a good idea.

 

I use synthetic grease, as for brakes, on the rotating faces, ends of bushings and lower pins.

Torque in the air. Don't crank down too tightly on the upper arm studs as it makes the suspension bind up. A good place for fresh lock nuts.

 

Yes put some antiseize on the pin.

I'm one of the few who had to saw the pin to remove it.
BADLY seized you say???

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...s-are-out.html

 

On my recently-acquired 1980, I had to saw both sides. Seized to the sleeve inside the shock bushing on both sides.

 

Lucky you... Mine had seized inside the shock bush and inside the front bush of the control arm. Made replacement of the rear suspension a joyful process