No Spark, Problem found YAH !
02-05-2012, 01:15 PM
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No Spark, Problem found YAH !
Hello all, 84 euro, A/T
Since last fall, i had an intermitent spark issue, then it turned into no spark at all, so i just chnaged the CPS and that wasnt it. This morning, i was checking for fuel also with the wet plug and it was dry also. HMM, no spark and no fuel.
Cleaned all the grounds, checked the twn dizzy belt, everything looked good. So i tought ok, either Ignition switch, or relays. So i pulled my horn replay, and put it in the EKZ realy posiiton X, and the car fired right up. Allright i screamed time for a beer and the game.
I drove it around the block and it road really well being that i have been also fixing some vacuum leaks. I missed the feeling i got driving my shark around.
Anyway, i will be changing all the relays, i dont want ot go through that treasure hunt again. Thanks to all for the recommendations.
Now its on to fixing all the little things i have been neglecting. The first thing i have to do is find this dam battery drain, i have puuled every relay and every fuse, and i still have 4.25 DC when i jump my meter in between the negative cable, and the battery terminal. I am still suspecting the alternator, but am hesitant until the weather breaks.
Any suggestions ? I have checked all of the likely spots everyone speaks of on the Renlist.
Since last fall, i had an intermitent spark issue, then it turned into no spark at all, so i just chnaged the CPS and that wasnt it. This morning, i was checking for fuel also with the wet plug and it was dry also. HMM, no spark and no fuel.
Cleaned all the grounds, checked the twn dizzy belt, everything looked good. So i tought ok, either Ignition switch, or relays. So i pulled my horn replay, and put it in the EKZ realy posiiton X, and the car fired right up. Allright i screamed time for a beer and the game.
I drove it around the block and it road really well being that i have been also fixing some vacuum leaks. I missed the feeling i got driving my shark around.
Anyway, i will be changing all the relays, i dont want ot go through that treasure hunt again. Thanks to all for the recommendations.
Now its on to fixing all the little things i have been neglecting. The first thing i have to do is find this dam battery drain, i have puuled every relay and every fuse, and i still have 4.25 DC when i jump my meter in between the negative cable, and the battery terminal. I am still suspecting the alternator, but am hesitant until the weather breaks.
Any suggestions ? I have checked all of the likely spots everyone speaks of on the Renlist.
02-05-2012, 01:20 PM
#2
Pro
02-05-2012, 02:25 PM
#3
Team Owner
I thought i would cross post this as it seems to be part of the cure
remove the distributor caps and verify that the rotors are both pointing to the respective hash marks on the dist body ,do this test at TDC.
if the rotors are off one is master and one is slave,
the belt has probably broke or jumped time, replace the distributor belt.
Replace the 4 running relays , fuel pump, EZF, LH, and ignition you can use 53 relays in place of the 24 relays,
Inspect the crank position connector and possibly replace the CPS
remove the distributor caps and verify that the rotors are both pointing to the respective hash marks on the dist body ,do this test at TDC.
if the rotors are off one is master and one is slave,
the belt has probably broke or jumped time, replace the distributor belt.
Replace the 4 running relays , fuel pump, EZF, LH, and ignition you can use 53 relays in place of the 24 relays,
Inspect the crank position connector and possibly replace the CPS
02-05-2012, 06:50 PM
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Mr. Merlin, thanks for the reply, i did check the rotors at TDC they were fine, but i did find out it was the EZF relay.
Anyway, Bob, thanks for the reply. And i think i am reading it right. My Fluke meter is limited i guess, it has the Volt reading in both AC and DC, and the Amp reading in both AC and DC. And a 300 Mv in DC reading, and continuity. I dont have the capability, i think, to read Ma or Milly Amps.
My battery drains in about an hour. When reading the Amps DC it says 4.30. When reading Volts at Dc it is 12.5. I tried it on 300mV DC, and it doesnt read at all. Am i reading it right ?
Anyway, Bob, thanks for the reply. And i think i am reading it right. My Fluke meter is limited i guess, it has the Volt reading in both AC and DC, and the Amp reading in both AC and DC. And a 300 Mv in DC reading, and continuity. I dont have the capability, i think, to read Ma or Milly Amps.
My battery drains in about an hour. When reading the Amps DC it says 4.30. When reading Volts at Dc it is 12.5. I tried it on 300mV DC, and it doesnt read at all. Am i reading it right ?
02-05-2012, 08:34 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
Reading it correctly, not using it correctly. 
(the range of 300 mV DC is too small for a 12,000 mV battery).
4.3 amps is a major drain, is that with all fuses pulled?
(the range of 300 mV DC is too small for a 12,000 mV battery).4.3 amps is a major drain, is that with all fuses pulled?
02-06-2012, 09:02 AM
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danglerb, Thanks for the reply. I see 4.3 AMPS DC. and my battery drains in about 1 hour. When ever i take it anywhere i have to disconnect the negative cable from the battery. This is exactly why i have not driven it that much in the past 3 years.
That reading is what i get with all the Fuses and relays in. But i have pulled every fuse and every relay one by one without seeing any change in the drain. This is why i am suspecting the alternator.
That reading is what i get with all the Fuses and relays in. But i have pulled every fuse and every relay one by one without seeing any change in the drain. This is why i am suspecting the alternator.
02-06-2012, 04:02 PM
#7
Nordschleife Master
4.3 amps at 12v is over 50 watts, something somewhere is getting hot. Its not just pesky, its a potential hazard.
A smart electrical diagnostic meter will be able to detect bad diodes in the alternator with a simple connection at the battery or jump post. It detects the AC ripple in the voltage, and looks for missing bumps. Meters aren't cheap that do that, and places with them like Sears usually want to charge $20 diagnostic fee or charging system analysis fee.
What you really need to hunt drains on a 928 is either some kind of short detector, or a meter with a DC amp clamp. A DC amp clamp meter lets you snap the clamp around a wire and measure the current flowing in the wire without breaking the connection or moving wires. I'm pretty happy with a low cost Sears 82369 meter.
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-d...p-03482369000P
A smart electrical diagnostic meter will be able to detect bad diodes in the alternator with a simple connection at the battery or jump post. It detects the AC ripple in the voltage, and looks for missing bumps. Meters aren't cheap that do that, and places with them like Sears usually want to charge $20 diagnostic fee or charging system analysis fee.
What you really need to hunt drains on a 928 is either some kind of short detector, or a meter with a DC amp clamp. A DC amp clamp meter lets you snap the clamp around a wire and measure the current flowing in the wire without breaking the connection or moving wires. I'm pretty happy with a low cost Sears 82369 meter.
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-d...p-03482369000P
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02-06-2012, 04:36 PM
#8
Electron Wrangler
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It shoudl be very easy to diagnose such a big drain - It seems you are not very familiar with electrical debug - why haven't you taken it in somewhere and have them diagnose this for you ? surely makes sense to get this fixed - the car is basically unusable like this right?
Up on a lift it will be quick job to isolate the alternator - and determine if that is at fault - however an esimation can be made from the voltage it runs at - at cold idle. If it is well <13.5v at the engine jump post then a diode is probably damaged. If is reads above 13.5v it is probably not that...
Further isolation can be done fairly easily but its best to find someone familiar with 928's if you can - it cuts down on chasing false ideas. Not all the connections to the battery are fused or go though the CE panel so I'd not start with fuses & relays...
Alan
Alan
Up on a lift it will be quick job to isolate the alternator - and determine if that is at fault - however an esimation can be made from the voltage it runs at - at cold idle. If it is well <13.5v at the engine jump post then a diode is probably damaged. If is reads above 13.5v it is probably not that...
Further isolation can be done fairly easily but its best to find someone familiar with 928's if you can - it cuts down on chasing false ideas. Not all the connections to the battery are fused or go though the CE panel so I'd not start with fuses & relays...
Alan
Alan
