1984 FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND BRAKES PROCEDURE w/PICS
02-27-2012 | 11:15 AM
#31
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Lifetime Rennlist
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 20,506
Likes: 549
From: Bend, Oregon
Dwayne---
Great instructions as always. Particularly, the wheel bearing R&R and adjustment instructions are very clear.
Some thoughts for those playing along at home:
Poor-Man's runout detector: If you don't have a dial indicator handy for checking rotor runout, Dwayne suggests looking at the reflection of a stationary part on the machined/polished rotor face as you slowly turn it. If there is runout, the reflection will "move". I'm not that steady, so the reflection -always- moves. So I hold a pencil against something staionary like the caliper mounting ear, tip just barely touching the machined/polished face of the rotor. Turn the rotor slowly, and the pencil will mark "high" spots and "miss" low places if the rotor is warped at all. Clean the pencil marks off before installing the new pads, or you can use a piece of dowel instead of the pencil to keep the graphite from cantaminating the friction surface.
For folks who get in trouble when they put car parts in the kitchen oven, find a cheap (<$20 at a Big Lots, even less at a garage/yard sale) toaster oven for the garage. They have temp controls on them so you can set-and-forget them while they heat the hubs for you. By the time the hubs are heated, you've finished your coffee, cleaned the calipers and backing plate, and are ready to drop the frozen bearing "cups" back in.
I add a little anti-seize to the hold-down screws for the rotor. Threads and the tapered faces of the flat-headget a smear. The nating areas where the rotor meets the hub are cleaned extra-well, and a bit of Optimoly goes there.
I "paint" the insides of the rotor hats with spray galvanizing too, along with the slots/vents at the outer edges, to inhibit corrosion. CRC "Instant Cold Galvanizing" in a spray can does the job for me. It's already applied to some Zimmerman rotors but not all of them for some reason.
Great instructions as always. Particularly, the wheel bearing R&R and adjustment instructions are very clear.
Some thoughts for those playing along at home:
Poor-Man's runout detector: If you don't have a dial indicator handy for checking rotor runout, Dwayne suggests looking at the reflection of a stationary part on the machined/polished rotor face as you slowly turn it. If there is runout, the reflection will "move". I'm not that steady, so the reflection -always- moves. So I hold a pencil against something staionary like the caliper mounting ear, tip just barely touching the machined/polished face of the rotor. Turn the rotor slowly, and the pencil will mark "high" spots and "miss" low places if the rotor is warped at all. Clean the pencil marks off before installing the new pads, or you can use a piece of dowel instead of the pencil to keep the graphite from cantaminating the friction surface.
For folks who get in trouble when they put car parts in the kitchen oven, find a cheap (<$20 at a Big Lots, even less at a garage/yard sale) toaster oven for the garage. They have temp controls on them so you can set-and-forget them while they heat the hubs for you. By the time the hubs are heated, you've finished your coffee, cleaned the calipers and backing plate, and are ready to drop the frozen bearing "cups" back in.
I add a little anti-seize to the hold-down screws for the rotor. Threads and the tapered faces of the flat-headget a smear. The nating areas where the rotor meets the hub are cleaned extra-well, and a bit of Optimoly goes there.
I "paint" the insides of the rotor hats with spray galvanizing too, along with the slots/vents at the outer edges, to inhibit corrosion. CRC "Instant Cold Galvanizing" in a spray can does the job for me. It's already applied to some Zimmerman rotors but not all of them for some reason.
03-16-2012 | 01:40 AM
#32
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,778
Likes: 0
From: Singhampton, Ontario/London, Ontario
Wow, this writeup is just like the lab reports we do at my college! Minus the pictures. The use of a clamp as the wheel bearing preload adjustment is pretty unusual. Usually it's a simple castle nut/cotter pin combination.
