Dwayne

Thanks for the comments and feedback all! Also a "Thanks" to Greg (blown 87) and Stan (Mrmerlin) for providing some additional tips/recommendations (most of which I have just incorporated) and have helped to improve the overall quality of this write up. A GREAT community we have here!

NoVector

Dwayne - This is (another) excellent writeup. Do you use antiseize on the rotor set-screws? I had to use my dremil to cut cross-hatch marks for the phillips screw driver becuase I screwed up the screw head trying to remove it. If you do use antiseize, I assume it would be the copper based(?)

BTW - I always wondered if you had a helper taking pictures of you doing these. After seeing the pictures of you packing the bearings, I assume you do

Bilal928S4

I use this impact screwdriver frrom Harbor Freight Tool to take these pesky screws off.
Here's the link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
It's item number 37530 for $6.99

G Man

Another great writeup Dwayne! Have you ever tried to throw the races in the freezer prior to installing them? I have found in some cases they just drop into place with little to no assistance needed from an installation tool.

tmpusfugit

Thanks Dwayne! Super job! I have an '84 and just picked up a new set of bearings and seals a couple of weeks ago. Your timing could not be better.....

Bertrand Daoust

Thanks Dwayne for this writeup.
Another fabulous one for all the newby like me!
I may repeat myself but I would not be able to own a 928 without people like you and many others here.

Many thanks again.

Dwayne

I have not been using anti-seize because the torque on the screw is only supposed to be 7 ftlbs and if a screw is stubborn, an impact driver such as the one mentioned above by bilal could be used. There is no need to over-tighten the rotor screws since the wheel lug nuts apply all the force needed to secure the rotor to the hub. The WSM also does not mention or recommend anti-seize on these screws. In my unprofessional opinion, I think a person could use anti-seize on the screws as an added measure of security and I believe the high temp copper type would suffice. My only hesitation would be that if anti-seize were used on such a small screw that is only torqued to 7 ftlbs that over time, vibration may allow the screw to come loose - probably not a problem since the rotor is secured with the wheel lugs.

Great observation on the picture help. Of the literally 1000's of pictures I've taken of my learnings on the 928, they have all been taken by myself without the aid of a helper. When it came to documenting this job, I originally left out the bearing packing procedure because I could find no way to take pictures without some acrobatic insanity involved. After I had finished the job, I decided the bearing packing procedure needed to be in the write up so I got out my old bearings, put on my gloves and asked my wife to take pictures - it was a first!

THANKS for the question!

Dwayne

Hi Jim!
Actually, I do place the races in the freezer and I believe I included this instruction in this write up. You are correct - having a hot hub in combination with frozen races makes installing the races a snap! They really do practically fall into place with little persuasion. THANKS for the question!

NoVector

LOL - I was thinking, "well, he could have used the timer on his camera, but then he'd still have to press the buttons with his greasy fingers..." Again, excellent documentation. I tried all the suggestions on Nichols website to remove the dust caps, the tool you show with the slide hammer beats them all. Thanks again - your writeups AND pictures to supplement the WSMs make all these jobs much easier! Now, if we could just get Roger to give you a set of the window rubber for the outside of the doors to document that installation... / Bruce

kelanel

+1


Love the write-up dwayne, this will really come in handy as will your other write-ups (motor mounts when i work up the courage to do it).

Thanks again for making life easier for all of us!
Jonathan.





P.S. Did you ever install those brake lines you won at last SF?

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Hi Dwayne.
Fantastic write-up as usual. I am looking at the WSM and they indicate the disc rotor slots should be installed opposite to what you show. I am going by the slots in the brake surface, not number or stamping.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Dave

fbarnhill

Dwayne, I am now even more amazed by you. I was attempting to do a writeup on my 86.5 engine rebuild. I took a bunch of pictures but I always get busy and in the zone and by the time I realized it, I had gone way to far to backup and start over. Taking the digitial photos are a great idea even if you are not going to do the writeup. It is awsome reference when you go to put the damn thing back together. Because I didn't take any good pics of how the hoses were attached under the intake, it cost me hours of research weeks and weeks later when it was time to put it back together. When I was in my 20s and 30s for some reason I could just always remember how things came apart and never had an issue. Of course that was 20 or 30 years ago and cars have become one hell of a lot more complicated. Thank you so much for your effort. I have to admit that I had a printed copy of several of your writeups on hand for my rebuild. I just used them when I came to those areas where they would apply like the TB/WP etc.. So, I have benefitted greatly by your generousity.

Dwayne

Hello Dave,
You are correct - the orientation of the slots appear to be different than the WSM - I just checked. I'm pretty sure I put the correct rotor on based on the stamping. But your question has introduced some doubt so I will check and let you know what I find on the stamping - I'll need to take the wheel off so it may be a few days before I can get back to this question. Excellent observation! Please stand by...

Thanks for the feedback, Frank. I started taking pictures for the same reason you describe - to find my way back to putting things together in the same configuration I found them. Works great!

jon928se

IMHO They are on correctly - the vanes in the rotor should force air from the centre to the outside when the car is moving forwards

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Thanks, Dwayne. I just installed a new pair. They are stamped R and L, and the slots are the same on both sides. The inside venting may be different. I'm just glad I got them on. It was a bear to get the old rotors off. I'm sure you did yours right, the R/R and part nos. don't lie.
Dave