Water Pump Failure Symtoms
#1
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Okay forum, I need to know what a failing Water Pump sounds like and looks like.
I would like to know what to look for or what to listen for.
Thanks guys....
I would like to know what to look for or what to listen for.
Thanks guys....
#2
Race Car
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I wouldn't try to wait to hear what it sounds like. It may not sound like anything and be damaging your engine block as you try to listen for it. I would be looking for one or more of the following:
- leaking coolant, mostly towards the front of the oil pan
- timing belt "dust" under the belt covers
- engine running hotter than usual
Regardless, if you suspect the water pump may be bad, you should at least check the tracking of the timing belt. I would be changing the pump without hesitation if there was a doubt in my mind.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
- leaking coolant, mostly towards the front of the oil pan
- timing belt "dust" under the belt covers
- engine running hotter than usual
Regardless, if you suspect the water pump may be bad, you should at least check the tracking of the timing belt. I would be changing the pump without hesitation if there was a doubt in my mind.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
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#3
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I dont see any coolant leak towards the front of the oil pan.
However, I do see a pool of coolant right in and around the water bridge area.
Also sounds like something is ratteling in and around that water bridge area.
Currently I am in the process of removing the radiator and I am going to replace that passenger side tank on that radiator.
If anyone in or around San Antonio, Tx that can come by and take a look/listen would be greatly appricated.
However, I do see a pool of coolant right in and around the water bridge area.
Also sounds like something is ratteling in and around that water bridge area.
Currently I am in the process of removing the radiator and I am going to replace that passenger side tank on that radiator.
If anyone in or around San Antonio, Tx that can come by and take a look/listen would be greatly appricated.
#4
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Coolant in the pockets aft of the oil filler neck, that would be aft of the water bridge is probably not the pump, the pump does not sit that high and therefor any leak is downward. The pockets or low spots are on top of engine, probably the seals in the bridge. A rattling noise is not these seals, could be the pump.
#5
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When mine started to go, it made a "rattle" noise--maybe once every 30 seconds. I looked down one of the holes on top of the TB covers while the engine was running and every time I heard the rattle, I noticed the TB didn't track right. To confirm it, I started removing accessory belts one at a time to make sure it wasn't the alternator, PS or A/C. Sure enough, mine was the WP. Hopefully, yours is not--but if it's time for a new one anyway, it's a piece of cake on an 82. Or, you coult take it to Jones'
#7
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I have the service records for the car, and I cant find anything on the pump being replaced. So I have to assume its the original.
Man, I dont mind doing the work but that TB worries me.
It needs to be done anyway. Jones wants to much money, I guess I will take on this job.
Man, I dont mind doing the work but that TB worries me.
It needs to be done anyway. Jones wants to much money, I guess I will take on this job.
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#9
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Jadz posted a comment on another thread about a visual indicator- belt not tracking properly was one, but he identified a reference point/landmark on the crank end, IIRC...which I could remember which thread it was...
This is older, but ton of info..
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...p-failure.html
This is older, but ton of info..
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...p-failure.html
#11
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If you do not know when yourr WP and/or tb were changed then no need for further discussion on that one - QED- just do it.
Your leak sounds as though it is probably the water bridge but there may be other connections leaking like the temp sensor but i do not know the configuration on earlier models.
Best wishes
Fred
Your leak sounds as though it is probably the water bridge but there may be other connections leaking like the temp sensor but i do not know the configuration on earlier models.
Best wishes
Fred
#12
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I am in the process of pull off the TB covers and I got the passenger side one off and that TB is really loose. I will post a video in a second...you guys have to show me how to tighten that back up.....
#13
Craic Head
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There are several failure modes for the TB/WP system. None of them are solved and many are made worse by tightening the tensioner.
Presumably it was the right tension at some point, but now it's loose.
That means one of the following has occured:
>Tensioner arm shoulder bolt has bent- Needs replacement
>Water pump pulley/spindle/impeller is loose and 'sagging' - Needs replacement
>Belt has stretched- Needs replacement
>Tensioner nut has backed off and tensioner bolt has backed out (I don't even know if this is possible but I think it's the only possible solution where tightening it up again would not break something).
So basically if the belt is loose, something needs to be replaced. You just need to determine what.
#14
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Wow that is what I did not want to hear....currently this is my daily driver...and I need her back up and running.
Where the TB runs through the left and right cam towers the belt is loose. How do I proceed from here.
Where the TB runs through the left and right cam towers the belt is loose. How do I proceed from here.
If the belt is really loose, the answer is not to tighten it up.
There are several failure modes for the TB/WP system. None of them are solved and many are made worse by tightening the tensioner.
Presumably it was the right tension at some point, but now it's loose.
That means one of the following has occured:
>Tensioner arm shoulder bolt has bent- Needs replacement
>Water pump pulley/spindle/impeller is loose and 'sagging' - Needs replacement
>Belt has stretched- Needs replacement
>Tensioner nut has backed off and tensioner bolt has backed out (I don't even know if this is possible but I think it's the only possible solution where tightening it up again would not break something).
So basically if the belt is loose, something needs to be replaced. You just need to determine what.
There are several failure modes for the TB/WP system. None of them are solved and many are made worse by tightening the tensioner.
Presumably it was the right tension at some point, but now it's loose.
That means one of the following has occured:
>Tensioner arm shoulder bolt has bent- Needs replacement
>Water pump pulley/spindle/impeller is loose and 'sagging' - Needs replacement
>Belt has stretched- Needs replacement
>Tensioner nut has backed off and tensioner bolt has backed out (I don't even know if this is possible but I think it's the only possible solution where tightening it up again would not break something).
So basically if the belt is loose, something needs to be replaced. You just need to determine what.
#15
Craic Head
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Well the good news is unless it's a Euro I don't *think* it's an interference engine so there shouldn't be any chance of bending valves. (everyone says the US OBs are non-interference engines, but every once in a while someone chimes in talking about carbon buildup or something that can cause problems.)
I can't believe it was running that way though. Is that the way it was when you opened it up?
What was the reason for starting this service? Strange sounds? Leaking coolant?
Was anything else done before this step? When was the last time the belt was off and/or tensioned?
That just looks like it would be skipping teeth with all that slop.
Hopefully some of the OB gurus will chime in here, but if it were me I'd get the write-ups for the TB/WP replacement and start down that road. You need to figure out where all that slop is coming from. Does the WP pulley wobble if you try to move it? (You may need to remove the belt for this, so put the engine in the right position to do this and install the lock to keep it from moving).
What about the tensioner arm? Is it loose or does it just pivot in the plane of the belt?
I think those are the only things that could cause that much play because the rest of the gears are fixed.
BTW- great job with the vid. I have no audio here at work but I can see what you're talking about perfectly. A picture is worth a thousand words. A video is worth a thousand pics.
I can't believe it was running that way though. Is that the way it was when you opened it up?
What was the reason for starting this service? Strange sounds? Leaking coolant?
Was anything else done before this step? When was the last time the belt was off and/or tensioned?
That just looks like it would be skipping teeth with all that slop.
Hopefully some of the OB gurus will chime in here, but if it were me I'd get the write-ups for the TB/WP replacement and start down that road. You need to figure out where all that slop is coming from. Does the WP pulley wobble if you try to move it? (You may need to remove the belt for this, so put the engine in the right position to do this and install the lock to keep it from moving).
What about the tensioner arm? Is it loose or does it just pivot in the plane of the belt?
I think those are the only things that could cause that much play because the rest of the gears are fixed.
BTW- great job with the vid. I have no audio here at work but I can see what you're talking about perfectly. A picture is worth a thousand words. A video is worth a thousand pics.