New Clutch Whoes ... Slave Cylinder installer error .. FIXED YIPPIE
#1
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New Clutch Whoes ... Slave Cylinder installer error .. FIXED YIPPIE
Got everything together and started down the street and a screech from hell started and then the clutch pedal dropped to the floor and stuck (point of panic). I pulled it back up by hand and the clutch appeared and did function. The screech was still there, I was able to get her back in the garage. The clutch engaged smooth as melted butter still but the noise creeps me out. I suspect it is the TO rubbing on the tube.
Now I did test the car on the stands first to see if there was any noise and there was none.
Anybody else have this happen?
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TO was not dry and is smooth.
The pilot bearing is finger touch smooth on turning.
Is there a trick in the slider tube?
Now I did test the car on the stands first to see if there was any noise and there was none.
Anybody else have this happen?
-----------
TO was not dry and is smooth.
The pilot bearing is finger touch smooth on turning.
Is there a trick in the slider tube?
Last edited by Andre Hedrick; 01-20-2012 at 03:35 AM. Reason: change title
#2
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BIDS for a Throw Out Bearing, Pilot Bearing, and Ball Cap combo, please PM me, I think I will be buy a set of these for the next adventure into the setup.
BIDS for a Throw Out Bearing, Pilot Bearing, and Ball Cap combo, please PM me, I think I will be buy a set of these for the next adventure into the setup.
#5
I think you'd better pull it down and have a look. I've had two pedal on floor events: 1) broke spring in master, and 2) Throw out came unclipped from pressure plate. Neither really sounds like yours in that yours started working again. I could see the throw out sticking on the guide tube...I have seen a lot of wear on the guide tubes and replace mine when they look too bad.
#6
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I think you'd better pull it down and have a look. I've had two pedal on floor events: 1) broke spring in master, and 2) Throw out came unclipped from pressure plate. Neither really sounds like yours in that yours started working again. I could see the throw out sticking on the guide tube...I have seen a lot of wear on the guide tubes and replace mine when they look too bad.
I first thought the slave linkage popped off and was grinding in the starter ring, but then the clutch came back.
I was able to drive it back into the garage in first and the clutch floated perfectly and smooth.
There was a little clutch stink but that is maybe expected as they are new discs and the adjustments took hours to get right.
First using Erik's modified lower housing idea, and then Mark's death strap to verify the smooth turning.
I was able to left hand easily spin the clutch shaft, TT shaft, and the fresh gearbox (in neutral) with the clutch disengaged, and could only hear faint brushing of the discs.
Is it possible the pulling back to much in the strap caused the TO to get upset?
Also the guide tube as the last thing I adjusted and put a spot of moly grease on (650F drop point).
Now driving it back up the street, the noise was less.
What boggles the mind is there was no noise when testing at idle on the stands, after 5 minutes of testing.
The pain point is I have to drop the CAT every time I need to access the lower bell housing. Does anyone know if there are 1" or 2" solid spacers to go between the manifolds and CAT?
#7
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Well if the noise is ere all the time then it's from the pressure plate forward. If only when the clutch is engaged, then it's behind the pressure plate. You should be able to drop the lower BH cover and rotate by hand and see or hear where the issue is.
Just be thankful you don't have to pull the engine to get at the clutch...
Just be thankful you don't have to pull the engine to get at the clutch...
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#8
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From: Concord, CA
Well if the noise is ere all the time then it's from the pressure plate forward. If only when the clutch is engaged, then it's behind the pressure plate. You should be able to drop the lower BH cover and rotate by hand and see or hear where the issue is.
Just be thankful you don't have to pull the engine to get at the clutch...
Just be thankful you don't have to pull the engine to get at the clutch...
Who has to pull the engine to get to the clutch in a 928?
#11
FWIW, I had problems this summer on the S4 with the pedal going straight to the floor when the car was hot. I could pull the pedal back up with my toe, and use the clutch, but it would tend to sink again when hot. When cold it was fine.
My mechanic replaced the clutch slave cylinder, installed new hydraulic fluid in the system, and bled everything. Made a world of difference. No more problems cold or hot and a better feel too.
That was at about 95K miles on the slave cylinder.
Also, Rockauto had some clutch slaves (rebuilt) for $23 on closeout.
My mechanic replaced the clutch slave cylinder, installed new hydraulic fluid in the system, and bled everything. Made a world of difference. No more problems cold or hot and a better feel too.
That was at about 95K miles on the slave cylinder.
Also, Rockauto had some clutch slaves (rebuilt) for $23 on closeout.
#12
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New data: screech is still there, and clutch works.
Engaged: much less noise.
Disengaged: more noise.
Slave cylinder is almost new and was bled earlier.
My bets are on the guide tube rubbing, photos to come.
----------------------------
Lost the BET ... the slave cylinder shaft either popped out, but likely I failed to get it inserted correctly and it still operated the clutch.
The starter ring and the shaft were grinding.
Engaged: much less noise.
Disengaged: more noise.
Slave cylinder is almost new and was bled earlier.
My bets are on the guide tube rubbing, photos to come.
----------------------------
Lost the BET ... the slave cylinder shaft either popped out, but likely I failed to get it inserted correctly and it still operated the clutch.
The starter ring and the shaft were grinding.
Last edited by Andre Hedrick; 01-20-2012 at 01:32 AM.