jwillman

Pulled my pod and gauges today. Odometer has never worked. Printed circuit card is looking pretty sad.

Don't know if the hole under the orange circle should have a gromet.

What about the three holes under the red circle? Looks like something was taped over that at some point.

I have had some intermittant issues with the tach and turn signal flasher indicator not working on occassion. Voltemeter ha never been accurate either.

How bad does this card look?

Maleficio

Looks like some serious scuffing on the left (in the photo) connector contacts.

I pulled mine and found ALL of the terminal screws backed out. Tightened them all in, and tadaa, my tach began working, have had no issues since.

jpitman2

Apart from obvious damage and failed traces on the mylar, the connectors are pretty fragile - as ssoon as you probe them , they are so soft they will bend and fail to make contact. I had to retension mine to get reliable grounds out of the right one. Some of my holes also had signs of some sort of sticky patch having been there - anybody know what that was about?
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

bradartigue

I just went through this with a couple of clusters so maybe I can help.

First, everything looks like it is connected correctly. The three horizontal circles do not have connections, yours even appears to have had a stick on it at one point. The five vertical circles do not have connections and the top one has no grommet, so all is well there too.

I cleaned my circuit board and all of the connectors using an electrolytic cleaning plate and washing powder; this is effective and easy if you're organized. To do that you have to remove every bulb from every holder and carefully unscrew/unbolt everything from the board. Then you carefully remove the black plastic connector tabs and slowly work your way around removing the circuit board. The tachometer part, the one with the three horizontal holes, is actually a plate with a few 1/2" aluminum connectors in it, as I said, be careful removing this stuff. Pictures below...

If you don't want to go through all this then you can clean some things up with a wire brush and patience. Remove every screw or nut, one at a time, and clean it, then replace it. Do the same with every bulb holder. The act of simply removing a bulb holder and bulb and then replacing them knocks off corrosion.

Honestly my only concern with your board, and it may be from your camera flash, is the discoloration. That comes from heat. Heat+Circuit Board = Bad.

Ducman82

buy a new one from Roger. while you are there you might as well do it.

jwillman

Thanks for the input. Color of my card was the first thing I observed as well. Not has blue or green as other postings I have seen. I am sure this is 32 years old!

Jadz928

[quote=bradartigue;9189150]I...Honestly my only concern with your board, and it may be from your camera flash, is the discoloration. That comes from heat. Heat+Circuit Board = Bad.

I agree. That flex PCB has seen some heat. I will post pics of mine this eve. for another comparison.

Flex PCB = NLA

Ducman82

i thought it was the later model ones that were NLA. i got mine this time last year from Roger.

robot808

You got an new 82 circuit board year? Lucky you.

Ducman82

81 actually. less then 100 bucks. i would give roger a call, he said he had a few.

robot808

I believe 82-84 are the NLA years...

Jadz928

I'm not following. Jim's car is a '79.

Is a MY79 flex PCB still available?

jwillman

Just spoke to Roger and yes the PCB is still available but a lofty $280.

Will be trying to make mine last a few more years at that cost.

I remember seeing a post some where on a hard wire project replacement for the PCB someone had undertaken. Anyone remember seeing that string?

Ducman82

i seem to recall that thread as well. lots of wires...

robot808

My apologies. Somehow I looked at the wrong persons sig line.