NoVector

^^^^ From Roger's downloadable install guide:
"Replace the fuel pump relay (Do you have a fire extinguisher in your shop?)
then one more check to see if you smell fuel. If not, and you have no leaks,
crank it over. You might want to shut it down as soon as it starts, and check
for leaks now that the system is pressurized. Look at each connection and
smell for gas."

jeff spahn

I paint marker everything as well when reassembling. Really helped when doing the engine install(s).

hacker-pschorr

If I make any change to my fuel system, no matter how minor, I jumper the fuel pump relay for 5-10 minutes and go over the entire system checking for leaks.

When I had an FMU on my car I would pressurize the fuel system up to 120+psi and check the system.

I'm installing a momentary override switch to my fuel pump relay on the 79 when I go to EFI so I can easily check the system on a regular basis.

Why the paranoia? Few years ago I discovered a hairline crack in my fuel rail.

On my 81 I have new OEM quality metric fittings with push on barb connectors (just like the original) mated up with S4 fuel rails. The hose I'm using far exceeds the original and is rated for all grades of fuel (including methanol).

Vonov

Thank you, Hacker, that is a helpful answer, and thanks for the idea about the fuel pump interrupt.
Has anyone else experienced a crack in their fuel rails? Oh, yeah, and it ain't paranoid if it's already happened...

snoz

+1 on that. I had the top of an injector fail on my 80 while driving home. I didn't smell it until I got out of the car. I was really suprised it didn't go up in flames. I'll be replacing every fuel line on my 86 and inspecting everything fuel related on it, while under pressure, before it's started again.

White Lightnin'

Let's try not to trample each other trying to get Roger's kit... they're not Jordans right?

amschnellsten

If Roger pulls his kit for DIY you can still find the hose and clamps at hundreds of other sources. If you can not find them then you should not be fixing them yourself. Still personally I would never use a screw down clamp on any fuel line on any vehicle, Period. I am having a set made for my car right now with braided stainless line, brazed fittings, fuel and acid resistant line and I paid under $100.

Bilal928S4

I bought the last fuel line set for DUMMIES from Roger. The only ones that he has left are for professional installers/mechanics.
Bilal

White Lightnin'

For your '88 S4?

Pics, specs & contacts... or it didn't happen!

blown 87

I would not use braided SS lines in the engine compartment of a 928.

namasgt

You need to make sure the braided line is rated for the correct bend radius for the fuel line on the back, if you have a 32 valve car. Its a U shaped line.

blown 87

And it needs to be very secure, braided SS line is like a hack saw when it vibrates and touches anything, it will chafe through a wire harness in very short order and it is conductive.

hacker-pschorr

I would only do this on a race / track car using a switche with a locking cover so it's never accidentally switched on (even when using a momentary switch).
The last thing I want to do is circumvent the safety the ignition fuel pump cut-off.

SMTCapeCod

Clearly, NC is still a little more laid back than DC~
http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/...SMlP_blog.html

Vonov

Most wholeheartedly agree. Actually, what I was thinking of was installing a fuel pump cutoff, rather than an "ON" switch, but your post gave me the idea.