Location of the OEM amplifier in a GTS?
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Hello all,
I tried searching this on the forum with no luck for pictures or directions of where the amp is located.
I am a very new and very green 928 owner. The PO had an aftermarket Alpine head unit and fosgate amp but kept all the original speakers. I am considering going to the original configuration but don't know if I have the original amp in the car still.
Secondary question;
If I keep the original speakers, will a good aftermarket head unit power all 10 speakers?
Thanks in advance for all of your help.
I tried searching this on the forum with no luck for pictures or directions of where the amp is located.
I am a very new and very green 928 owner. The PO had an aftermarket Alpine head unit and fosgate amp but kept all the original speakers. I am considering going to the original configuration but don't know if I have the original amp in the car still.
Secondary question;
If I keep the original speakers, will a good aftermarket head unit power all 10 speakers?
Thanks in advance for all of your help.
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Hi Martin,
The original factory amp is underneath the passenger side door fabric covered panel which is hold into place with two (2) black thumb-size screws. Loosen the screws, remove the cover and voila (provided the PO has not removed it).
Do note that the car radio head unit (connector) is getting the ignition power (if I recall correctly) through this factory amp unit, if you have further questions about that just ask.
The other large 19-pin connector you will find there is the car control-unit diagnostic connector (very useful when you have one of the diagnostics kits), but that is not related to any audio matters.
And yes: my head unit (Blaupunkt Toronto 410BT) is currently powering all 10 speakers although I did a decent amount of work already on those 10 speaker set-up (until I get Hans his new front speakers, as well as my current car body panels damage repaired).
The original factory amp is underneath the passenger side door fabric covered panel which is hold into place with two (2) black thumb-size screws. Loosen the screws, remove the cover and voila (provided the PO has not removed it).
Do note that the car radio head unit (connector) is getting the ignition power (if I recall correctly) through this factory amp unit, if you have further questions about that just ask.
The other large 19-pin connector you will find there is the car control-unit diagnostic connector (very useful when you have one of the diagnostics kits), but that is not related to any audio matters.
And yes: my head unit (Blaupunkt Toronto 410BT) is currently powering all 10 speakers although I did a decent amount of work already on those 10 speaker set-up (until I get Hans his new front speakers, as well as my current car body panels damage repaired).
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I maintain the existing head unit, amp and speakers in my GTS. I refoamed the large speakers. The sound quality for me is still excellent but probably not up to par with todays systems.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Hi Martin,
The original factory amp is underneath the passenger side door fabric covered panel which is hold into place with two (2) black thumb-size screws. Loosen the screws, remove the cover and voila (provided the PO has not removed it).
Do note that the car radio head unit (connector) is getting the ignition power (if I recall correctly) through this factory amp unit, if you have further questions about that just ask.
The other large 19-pin connector you will find there is the car control-unit diagnostic connector (very useful when you have one of the diagnostics kits), but that is not related to any audio matters.
And yes: my head unit (Blaupunkt Toronto 410BT) is currently powering all 10 speakers although I did a decent amount of work already on those 10 speaker set-up (until I get Hans his new front speakers, as well as my current car body panels damage repaired).
The original factory amp is underneath the passenger side door fabric covered panel which is hold into place with two (2) black thumb-size screws. Loosen the screws, remove the cover and voila (provided the PO has not removed it).
Do note that the car radio head unit (connector) is getting the ignition power (if I recall correctly) through this factory amp unit, if you have further questions about that just ask.
The other large 19-pin connector you will find there is the car control-unit diagnostic connector (very useful when you have one of the diagnostics kits), but that is not related to any audio matters.
And yes: my head unit (Blaupunkt Toronto 410BT) is currently powering all 10 speakers although I did a decent amount of work already on those 10 speaker set-up (until I get Hans his new front speakers, as well as my current car body panels damage repaired).
OK Is this the amp?
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Follow up question;
I want to try a JVC KD- NX5000 with built in 20 x 4 amp
(http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...X5000-R-B.html)
How do I make sure all ten speakers get power? I know that the fronts have a cross over, so one channel will feed the 4" mid and the twitter. I guess I am wondering more about the larger 6" speakers at the back. Are they tied into the rear 4" mid and twitter via a single crossover?
I want to try a JVC KD- NX5000 with built in 20 x 4 amp
(http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...X5000-R-B.html)
How do I make sure all ten speakers get power? I know that the fronts have a cross over, so one channel will feed the 4" mid and the twitter. I guess I am wondering more about the larger 6" speakers at the back. Are they tied into the rear 4" mid and twitter via a single crossover?
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Nope, that's part of the cooling fan control circuitry. The factory amp fits posterior to the 19 pin diagnostic connector, which itself is just behind the fan controller box.
Amp pics:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/factory%20amp%20overexposed.jpg)
Front of the amp connections:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/90%20GT%20Amp%20front%20face%20connections%20%232%201-27-10.jpg)
Back of amp:
Amp pics:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/factory%20amp%20overexposed.jpg)
Front of the amp connections:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/90%20GT%20Amp%20front%20face%20connections%20%232%201-27-10.jpg)
Back of amp:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/90GT%20Amp%20rear%20connections%201-27-10.jpg)
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NO - its behind that towards the back of the car - that you asked this means its gone - if it were still there you would have asked us about, and photographed, the thing that looks more like an amp.
Since its gone - you'd be pretty crazy to buy a new (old) one - they really weren't that good.
Alan
Since its gone - you'd be pretty crazy to buy a new (old) one - they really weren't that good.
Alan
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OK
I guess I don't have the OEM amp so I am forgetting about trying to go back to a full OEM configuration. However, I would really like to keep the original speakers. Can I still hook all ten of them up to a traditional 4 channel aftermarket head unit?
I guess I don't have the OEM amp so I am forgetting about trying to go back to a full OEM configuration. However, I would really like to keep the original speakers. Can I still hook all ten of them up to a traditional 4 channel aftermarket head unit?
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No - the stock amp was a 6 channel set up:
Front Door L/R - 2 Spkr per door via passive x-over
Rear 6.5 woofers L/R
Rear L/R - 2 speaker small on inner qtr panel & medium on to qtr panel top
- These are via a passive crossover - physicsally mounted on rear of 6.5" drivers but not electrically
connected to them.
You need a 6 channel amp, or go with 8 speakers and drop the 2 on the upper quarter panels. - you will need new
crossovers for the rears in this case. The 6 chanel amp has ana active high cut filter for the woofers.
For the stock speakers you wll also need an amp that can drive 2 ohm loads, many can now.
Alan
Front Door L/R - 2 Spkr per door via passive x-over
Rear 6.5 woofers L/R
Rear L/R - 2 speaker small on inner qtr panel & medium on to qtr panel top
- These are via a passive crossover - physicsally mounted on rear of 6.5" drivers but not electrically
connected to them.
You need a 6 channel amp, or go with 8 speakers and drop the 2 on the upper quarter panels. - you will need new
crossovers for the rears in this case. The 6 chanel amp has ana active high cut filter for the woofers.
For the stock speakers you wll also need an amp that can drive 2 ohm loads, many can now.
Alan
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No - the stock amp was a 6 channel set up:
Front Door L/R - 2 Spkr per door via passive x-over
Rear 6.5 woofers L/R
Rear L/R - 2 speaker small on inner qtr panel & medium on to qtr panel top
- These are via a passive crossover - physicsally mounted on rear of 6.5" drivers but not electrically
connected to them.
You need a 6 channel amp, or go with 8 speakers and drop the 2 on the upper quarter panels. - you will need new
crossovers for the rears in this case. The 6 chanel amp has ana active high cut filter for the woofers.
For the stock speakers you wll also need an amp that can drive 2 ohm loads, many can now.
Alan
Front Door L/R - 2 Spkr per door via passive x-over
Rear 6.5 woofers L/R
Rear L/R - 2 speaker small on inner qtr panel & medium on to qtr panel top
- These are via a passive crossover - physicsally mounted on rear of 6.5" drivers but not electrically
connected to them.
You need a 6 channel amp, or go with 8 speakers and drop the 2 on the upper quarter panels. - you will need new
crossovers for the rears in this case. The 6 chanel amp has ana active high cut filter for the woofers.
For the stock speakers you wll also need an amp that can drive 2 ohm loads, many can now.
Alan
OK, I may be back to plan A. I found an OEM 6 channel amp on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290653401921...9#ht_861wt_689
I got it for $49.00 (saw it on 928Int and pelican from $400 used to over $1000 new!). Now I just need to know what head unit will work. I have seen some Porsche cd210 or 220. Will any of these work?
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Update:
Talked to Stefan at SW Stereo Specialists (nice guy!) and he informed me that he can make an adapter that will allow a Porache CDR 220 to work with the OEM Blaupunkt amp. One last problem to overcome (i dont know if the wireing harness is still in the car). Oh well...one bite at a time I guess?
Talked to Stefan at SW Stereo Specialists (nice guy!) and he informed me that he can make an adapter that will allow a Porache CDR 220 to work with the OEM Blaupunkt amp. One last problem to overcome (i dont know if the wireing harness is still in the car). Oh well...one bite at a time I guess?
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You could use 2 amps & keep the 10 speaker setup:
(1) 2-channel amp for the woofers
(1) 4-channel amp for the pairs at the corners
(4) crossovers, 1 for each pair at the corners (each door; each inner quarter)
This will also allow tuneability (sp?) at each corner for highs & mids/lows... with lows for the woofers only.
To get better sound yet, swap in some good aftermarket (non-paper cones) speakers at all locations. Hidden under the factory grills, nobody would be the wiser. Popular consensus is that MB Quarts offer the closest to factory sizes & depths and good quality. Use search to find threads with part numbers...
(1) 2-channel amp for the woofers
(1) 4-channel amp for the pairs at the corners
(4) crossovers, 1 for each pair at the corners (each door; each inner quarter)
This will also allow tuneability (sp?) at each corner for highs & mids/lows... with lows for the woofers only.
To get better sound yet, swap in some good aftermarket (non-paper cones) speakers at all locations. Hidden under the factory grills, nobody would be the wiser. Popular consensus is that MB Quarts offer the closest to factory sizes & depths and good quality. Use search to find threads with part numbers...