Jadz928

There was alot of great action on this project over the past month, in preparation for a road trip to Michigan.

Finished the front seals and TB job, new steel LBJs, new tires, Borla cat-back exhaust, and buttoned up the interior... and a whole bunch of other stuff I choose not to remember.

Shook out the car on a shorter trip to Frenzy 16 in DC. The Frenzy is a stellar event... a must attend event!

Car performed great!





The following week saw a 900 mile trip to the Doerr Farm in Michigan. Ed R. (linderpat) and his lovely wife were kind enough to host me in Pittsburg. A perfect halfway point. Thanks Ed and Ann! No pics were taken as I was quickly put to work on Ed's car.
Again, the car performed very well! The only change was to increase tire pressure.

So now, #579 will be stable-mates with the #6 car for a couple years. I trust my Dad will drive it! Interesting news is both cars were stored with ethanol free "R90", short for recreational 90 octane.



Here's a few more pics to include my trusty sidekick mechanic, Quinn. She'll be six this week! Where does the time go...

Thanks for reading!









Note single arm with no idler.


Took a 3-arm puller to get this off! Rusted yes, but seriously galled. Must've been beat on with a mallet. 30 mins of filing and sanding, and it slid right on like it should.

Amille28

Jim, very nice car I must say.

I was comparing your #579 euro to mine and I'm trying to understand what it means to have one of these euro cars.
I have 9288101508 which i think is #1508. The car is a euro and everything, everything inside is in german and kmh. I have the same front fenders as you and the same rear bumper with the third fog light. I have no sunroof and the original passenger door doesn't have a mirror. (only drivers side has one).

I'm restoring the car but im really trying to gauge how big of a deal it is to change some things. Am i ruining an expensive timepiece? Im planning on changing the color form petro blue to a custom slate gray. Also I have a newer door from an 83 with the mirror.. i think it would be safer to have a passenger mirror. Lastly the interior was all pasha... i had the seats recovered all black because the pasha had completely deteriorated.. and ... well.. didnt really dig pasha (gasp)

What do you think?

Aaron

Jadz928

Hi Aaron,
Reads like you got a pretty good handle on your 78 Euro!

I say do what you want with it. If you are going thru the effort of restoring it, have fun with it.
Now, if it was a ridiculously early car with a low VIN, I might suggest something different.
However, I would try to keep this car original, in the sense of using the right parts for the restoration. Stay away from serious mods, unless they better the safety of the vehicle. PAX door mirror - safety, 'S' brakes - safety, Steel lower ball joints - critical safety.

Where are you located? Good luck with your restoration, let me know if I may be able to help.

Amille28

Thanks for the response Jim.

I'm stationed in New Orleans with the Navy right now but have pending orders to DC starting next spring. I'd love to come see your cars when I get back up north.

I've never heard of the issues about the steel lower ball joints. I will do a search. I can see where it would be an issue. I snapped an aluminum lower control arm on my 2001 996. It's amazing how much Porsche keeps the same over the years... the windshield wiper reservoir setups are nearly exactly the same on a 78 928 and a 01 996. I guess if it ain't broke... don't fix it.

Aaron

pcar928fan

The Aluminum ball joint WILL BREAK and MUST be replaced with the steel one ASAP. The nice thing is that the biggest steering loads are at low speed so most of them that break do so in parking lots or driveways, so rarely is anyone hurt. That said, it can ruin your day in a real hurry!

kawi825

Just found this info on your blog Jim. You've helped alot.trying to build a BOM before we rip apart the front of mine to find the source of oil leak down onto the front of both headers. Been going crazy trying to pick through diagrams, etc. this helps a tom. Got a call into my new best friend Roger too..

Jadz928

Glad I could help, Matt.

Don't forget the distributor shaft seal (oring).

Also, I may be inclined to use Carl's Silicone water bridge and rear cam cover seals (however not too keen on the price):

http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...dge_gasket.php
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...cam_gasket.php

If you use the OE cork, I wouldn't be alarmed. They work, are inexpensive, and have a fair service life.


Lastly,
Early 928's pull a fair amount of oil vapor into the airbox. May be worth installing a baffle or seperator:

928intl's baffle (resonable price): http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...928 107 707 05

Kuhn's seperator (pricey, but quite a piece of work!: http://www.kuhnperformance.com/model...r-oil-scrubber

kawi825

Thanks Jim, got the dist seal too, and cam sleeves just in case. can't imagine mine are bad, but i'd rather have them on hand in case. got ther correct Orings, have not purchased cam cover gaskets. the leak i have seems to only be in either fornt corner, so that oil drips down each header, right on the front seam of each. Smells great when you stop at a light.

Wife won't ride in the thing (hmm. let me re-think this..)

As far as oil intake- i couldn't stand thinking of oil running back into the intake after my intake refresh, etc last summer, so i threw on a K&N cone temporarilty/permanantly.. i know some people will scream about this, but it's better in my mind right now than throwing oil into my intake.

after this work, i'm going to rip off my pod for the 5th time in a month or so and take one final look at my odo, if i still can't figure it out, i may see if you're looking for some work. I can't bear to drive this thing without a good odometer with my low mileage.. thanks again for the help

Landseer

Sounds very much like leaking behind the cam gear covers.

The fat, thick little o rings that look like hotwheels car slicks -- that should solve it.

Its one of those reseal jobs, along with all the cam snout seals, and back cam covers (pointing towards firewall) that I'd characterize as core for 16V.

So far, in rescue of 4 of the 16V cars, I've not had to pull a cam cover itself (ie, the part analogous to a GM valve cover.)

kawi825

Awesome news on the cam covers. I did order the small hot wheels slicks, and all the others I thought may be needed from Roger. Would be great to not have to pull the covers for sure.. Thanks

Btw~I love your clear side markers,I know a member here sells them?? Can't remember who? Where did you put your running lights after deleting them? I'm Tomlin of popping another lamp into my signal housing.

Landseer

Well, maybe Jadz 928 should acknowledge that compliment and answer!
(It was his car)

Jadz928

Nicole at Hooked on Cars has them. She is a sponsor here.

Not sure what to make of that filter. Just make sure to save the original hose because it's NLA.
FWIW, your coil wire should route down and across the front cam sprocket cover (where it's clipped to the front of it).

Engine looks good, BTW!

I should be able to help your speedo. If you do it yourself, you need to learn to troubleshoot the signals into the gauge cluster.

Pls send me an email when you are ready.

Fronkenstein

Not sure if anyone is reading this thread anymore but... If you use the wrong size o-ring you will have improper o-ring compression and thusly a poor seal or damage to the seal.

Jadz928

If you are referring to the orings for the camshaft seals, here's a quick tech resource on that:
http://928classics.com/4/post/2013/0...ing-seals.html

Harvey Yancey

I have some new projects coming up for #579 that I will post here to continue Jim's detailed documentation of this car.

I will be addressing the suspension over the next few weeks (shocks, tie rods, ball joints, etc.). I will post pics as they become available.