I'm screwed
12-17-2011, 01:56 PM
#31
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Sorry to hear of this issue Bill, lets give things a chance, your in good hands with 928 community.
First see if the mechanic has any thoughts about the trans in your car.
Greg B may have a trans you could have but I need to chat with him,
it might be the one from the 87 Granit green car if he still has it, I will give it to you.
Dont despair a lot of people have your back, Stan
First see if the mechanic has any thoughts about the trans in your car.
Greg B may have a trans you could have but I need to chat with him,
it might be the one from the 87 Granit green car if he still has it, I will give it to you.
Dont despair a lot of people have your back, Stan
12-17-2011, 02:08 PM
#32
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Clean up the garage, put away tools, close garage doors, wash-up, change cloths, have a drink and take a few days off from thinking about your car.
This exact scenario has happened to me with a 5.0 mustang, turned out I damaged the front pump when installing the new high stall TQ that was also defective.
This exact scenario has happened to me with a 5.0 mustang, turned out I damaged the front pump when installing the new high stall TQ that was also defective.
I am going to do as you say. The garage and tools are a mess and need cleaning. I haven't had a drink in years, but this is a good time for one or two.
12-17-2011, 02:12 PM
#33
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Sorry to hear that Bill,
Perhaps if you simplified the transaxle removal and reinstallation, things would go smoother.
One thing I would recommend, is removing the transaxle from the torque tube first. Less weight to handle makes things easier. For this you need to use a transmission jack with tilting base. Since the engine/torque tube tilts back more to clear the transaxle/battery box interference, the front cross brace needs to be removed.
Another suggestion, is keeping the rear coilovers attached to the car. Instead, disconnecting the shocks at the pivot pin. The crossmember will be lighter and easier to handle.
It's hard to tell exactly what that noise is, but I'd say that your Mercedes mechanic probably failed to check extensive fitup clearances prescribed in the WSM. There are several measurements prescribed that are not easy to understand at first glance, but important. Shims and friction steels are available to make adjustments.
If you decide to do a full teardown, replacement 'hard parts' costs can go up dramatically. Most rebuilders realize this, and only change parts needed to get through the usually 12month warranty. Knowing what parts to replace can be difficult. One advantage of a full teardown is the ability to replace all the seals which can be done at very low cost. Ordering parts for these old transmissions can cause delays too.
Thanks for posting.
Perhaps if you simplified the transaxle removal and reinstallation, things would go smoother.
One thing I would recommend, is removing the transaxle from the torque tube first. Less weight to handle makes things easier. For this you need to use a transmission jack with tilting base. Since the engine/torque tube tilts back more to clear the transaxle/battery box interference, the front cross brace needs to be removed.
Another suggestion, is keeping the rear coilovers attached to the car. Instead, disconnecting the shocks at the pivot pin. The crossmember will be lighter and easier to handle.
It's hard to tell exactly what that noise is, but I'd say that your Mercedes mechanic probably failed to check extensive fitup clearances prescribed in the WSM. There are several measurements prescribed that are not easy to understand at first glance, but important. Shims and friction steels are available to make adjustments.
If you decide to do a full teardown, replacement 'hard parts' costs can go up dramatically. Most rebuilders realize this, and only change parts needed to get through the usually 12month warranty. Knowing what parts to replace can be difficult. One advantage of a full teardown is the ability to replace all the seals which can be done at very low cost. Ordering parts for these old transmissions can cause delays too.
Thanks for posting.
One thing I am confused about...if you just pull the primary pump and front clutch pack, and replace the K1 friction discs, do you need to do all that dimensional checking? He should know that stuff regardless. He may have only done a few 928 trannies, but this is common MB information.
12-17-2011, 02:22 PM
#34
Bill - this is really too bad. I have had a few of these fix-it-till-it's-broken fiascoes....
Anyway, call me if you decide to pull the transmission yourself: I am available anytime this coming week and can provide a fairly decent transmission jack as well as a truck if you want to haul the transmission somewhere. You are welcome to my time, the use of the jack and truck, or all three.
Bob
Anyway, call me if you decide to pull the transmission yourself: I am available anytime this coming week and can provide a fairly decent transmission jack as well as a truck if you want to haul the transmission somewhere. You are welcome to my time, the use of the jack and truck, or all three.
Bob
12-17-2011, 02:27 PM
#35
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Oh man - I'm so sorry to hear this, after all the wait and effort you put into it! I'm not sure what I can offer to help at this point - but if you decide to have a wrenching party for removing and another one for reinstalling the transmission, I will make sure they are well fed. (yes, George, I will bring "man food")
12-17-2011, 02:37 PM
#36
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Is all the 8 quarts of fluid in there? Sorry to hear this, I wish I was there.
It will make a loud kind of whistle sound (more of a wining sound really) with shifter on D, when the fluid level has been reduced. I think the sound comes from the oil pump when oil and air get mixed. Your situation is different tough, since someone has taken it apart and put it back together.
Why was the B3 piston replaced?
Ans what about the K1 pack clutch, did the old ones look bad?
It will make a loud kind of whistle sound (more of a wining sound really) with shifter on D, when the fluid level has been reduced. I think the sound comes from the oil pump when oil and air get mixed. Your situation is different tough, since someone has taken it apart and put it back together.
Why was the B3 piston replaced?
Ans what about the K1 pack clutch, did the old ones look bad?
The B3 piston was replaced because it had a broken locator pin. It worked fine despite that, and for all I know it could have been broken during disassembly.
The K1 discs looked fine. The rebuilder said initally he wasn't going to replace them but on second look he could see some wear. I couldn't tell myself.
12-17-2011, 02:38 PM
#37
Burning Brakes
Bill,
I am really depressed to hear this. You of all people should have a million good "CARma" points in the bank.
I am there to help whenever you decide to pull the trans. back out. Lets just "get er done" and take it to the place in Burlingame.
Oh yea and I was one of those "People" at the Lemons race who encouraged you to put the LSD in and get it all done. So I feel a bit guilty. But.......
This will get resolved and remember that you have a LSD to look forward to.
I am really depressed to hear this. You of all people should have a million good "CARma" points in the bank.
I am there to help whenever you decide to pull the trans. back out. Lets just "get er done" and take it to the place in Burlingame.
Oh yea and I was one of those "People" at the Lemons race who encouraged you to put the LSD in and get it all done. So I feel a bit guilty. But.......
This will get resolved and remember that you have a LSD to look forward to.
12-17-2011, 03:03 PM
#39
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My guess is that the primary pump bushing must now be hosed, and that accounts for the rub-rub noise and the leak despite fresh seal and o-ring. I hope whatever shop I take it to can replace that bushing and get things right w/o having to replace the whole primary pump (which is mucho $$$). Or, I may just do this myself with a little advice from Brian Orland (borland) and other list members who know these trannies well.
I have received offers of replacement trannies from Stan and Jeff, and replacement parts (such as the primary pump, if needed) from a low mileage 90 tranny that broke for other reasons (thanks George) and offers of help with the swap or repair. THANKS TO EVERYONE. I'll figure out which way to go with this on Monday.
I have received offers of replacement trannies from Stan and Jeff, and replacement parts (such as the primary pump, if needed) from a low mileage 90 tranny that broke for other reasons (thanks George) and offers of help with the swap or repair. THANKS TO EVERYONE. I'll figure out which way to go with this on Monday.
12-17-2011, 03:49 PM
#40
Drifting
Hi Brian:
One thing I am confused about...if you just pull the primary pump and front clutch pack, and replace the K1 friction discs, do you need to do all that dimensional checking? He should know that stuff regardless. He may have only done a few 928 trannies, but this is common MB information.
One thing I am confused about...if you just pull the primary pump and front clutch pack, and replace the K1 friction discs, do you need to do all that dimensional checking? He should know that stuff regardless. He may have only done a few 928 trannies, but this is common MB information.
The friction discs are standard thickness (one part number), but thickness may vary by manufacturer. The steels are sandwiched between the friction discs and are ordered by thickness (different part numbers), allowing for the needed stack height.
Another thing about the full teardown.. Cleanliness is very important. Plastic bags and sheet can be used as a lint free work surface. As you know the transmission is very heavy. Disassemby results in several large subassemblies which can be stored in stackable plastic containers. Those containers are inexpensive if bought at places like Target, Walmart, BigLots. While you work on each subassembly, the remaining parts are segregated into these containers so as not to get mixed up.
12-17-2011, 04:04 PM
#42
Race Director
also......there is a shop in Ceres-Modesto that rebuilt mine and did an excellent job.....1 year on track (say 40 hours) with zero issues......fluid never gets hot and when I changed it still looked perfectly clean (red) with no burnt smell.....
A&G Transmission
http://www.agtransmissions.com/
The work was not cheap.....but I trust them......& they did help me out with some used planetary sets vs new too (the used trans I bought was messed up)
A&G Transmission
http://www.agtransmissions.com/
The work was not cheap.....but I trust them......& they did help me out with some used planetary sets vs new too (the used trans I bought was messed up)
12-17-2011, 04:32 PM
#43
Team Owner
Bill I found an 89 with LSD,
Its ready to bolt in just say the word and we can get things moving on to get you back on the road, this will require that you turn in your old trans as a core.
Its ready to bolt in just say the word and we can get things moving on to get you back on the road, this will require that you turn in your old trans as a core.
12-17-2011, 04:48 PM
#44
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Stan: WOW! That sure would be the simplest solution, just requiring shipping. He would be getting a nice core also now with LSD (that I bought a while back for $1K) that probably just needs the primary pump bushing and dimensional checks, as borland described. Very tempting offer. I'll let you know Monday. My inclination is to repair mine.
12-17-2011, 05:00 PM
#45
Burning Brakes
Stan: WOW! That sure would be the simplest solution, just requiring shipping. He would be getting a nice core also now with LSD (that I bought a while back for $1K) that probably just needs the primary pump bushing and dimensional checks, as borland described. Very tempting offer. I'll let you know Monday. My inclination is to repair mine.
The holidays are coming up and I have a day or 2 to spare to come over to give you a pair of hands. Just let me know.
Steve