My Penance (Letting the cat out of the bag)
12-12-2011, 04:54 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here - to make you guys feel better, I will repost your jokes.
But please - lets stop it here and move on.
Sean says "It will be beautiful, you are awesome BC, but it may take 10 years"
Fabio says "Boy, you do awesome work, FacePalm, but I am sure it will look better than Jesus Christ can look at"
All better?
12-12-2011, 04:57 PM
#17
Good Luck with the project BC, I'm sure it will turn out fantastic. Please post pictures of your progress.
12-12-2011, 05:39 PM
#18
Moderator and 993 whisperer
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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Have fun and take plenty of pictures! Just don't let it turn out to look like Brian's car. I saw it last Friday. Lol. <ducking> Just kidding, Brian. 
(psst. Remember what I said here, BC, lol). <running!!!>
(psst. Remember what I said here, BC, lol). <running!!!>
12-12-2011, 05:41 PM
#19
Moderator and 993 whisperer
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
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(you were the topic of many the other day, dude, lol)
12-12-2011, 05:52 PM
#20
Team Owner
Goodluck on your new project.
based on your description of its condition and the time it has been sitting,
I would, and this is a partial list , Look into and there isnt any mention on how far this resto is going but check into the following
Replacement of the Timing belt ,
Reset the timing pulleys with the Porken tool
New oil pump pulley, made of steel, remove the 1mm spacer behind the aluminum pulley if this is done
New Laso water pump and new bolts
New tensioner arm bushings, the rollers are probably OK
New oil pump O ring Note the main and oil pump radial seals are probably good
New pan gasket slicone or cork,( I would use silicone)
New tensioner boot and rear gasket
New thermostat and rear seal and O ring
New fuel lines, (though you may find them still pliable so maybe leave them alone)
Send out the injectors to be cleaned (witchunter is a good place)
Clean the MAF
Replace the AC lines from the compressor (or try twisting the hose on the metal line near the radiator if its moving then it will leak)
Replace the AC system O rings with the new green O rings, its easy with the engine out of the way
Replace the oil cooler lines (try the same test try twisting the hose if the line will twist on the metal portion it will leak)
Remove the oil fill spout and clean and add some hondabond to the O ringed metal seal, both sides this will keep it dry till its removed.
Replace the cam cover gaskets you may be able to fit the sealing washers to the bolt heads
Replace the motor mounts
Replace the 2 power steering hoses to the reservoir
Drain the PS system you need 4 banjo sealing washers for the bottom of the rack
Replace the coolant 2 gallons of coolant 2 gallons of DIst. water
Remove the radiator and flush it out
Inspect the TOB and pilot bearing, replace either if in doubt
Replace the blue hose to clutch
Replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder for the clutch, Note use the old piston and spring from the MC
Replace the ignition wires and coil wires
Replace the spark plugs
Replace the airfilter
Replace the fuel filter
Check the rear pinch bolt on the driveshaft its probably loose torque to 66ft/lb and a drop of blue loctite on the bolt
Inspect the trans mounts see if they are collapsed
Check the shock absorbers maybe time for a new set of ????
Bleed the brakes (I suggest to use ATE super blue fluid)
Swap in some Porken chips and a 87 FPR,
Fit an X pipe ooops not stock.
Inspect the CE panel clean the fuses and relays
Clean the battery box and battery
Inspect the TT for rodents living in the foam isolator
Smear some DC111 on the door seals at the base of the side windows let the sun bake it in
Have fun Brendan
Merry Christmas to you and your family
based on your description of its condition and the time it has been sitting,
I would, and this is a partial list , Look into and there isnt any mention on how far this resto is going but check into the following
Replacement of the Timing belt ,
Reset the timing pulleys with the Porken tool
New oil pump pulley, made of steel, remove the 1mm spacer behind the aluminum pulley if this is done
New Laso water pump and new bolts
New tensioner arm bushings, the rollers are probably OK
New oil pump O ring Note the main and oil pump radial seals are probably good
New pan gasket slicone or cork,( I would use silicone)
New tensioner boot and rear gasket
New thermostat and rear seal and O ring
New fuel lines, (though you may find them still pliable so maybe leave them alone)
Send out the injectors to be cleaned (witchunter is a good place)
Clean the MAF
Replace the AC lines from the compressor (or try twisting the hose on the metal line near the radiator if its moving then it will leak)
Replace the AC system O rings with the new green O rings, its easy with the engine out of the way
Replace the oil cooler lines (try the same test try twisting the hose if the line will twist on the metal portion it will leak)
Remove the oil fill spout and clean and add some hondabond to the O ringed metal seal, both sides this will keep it dry till its removed.
Replace the cam cover gaskets you may be able to fit the sealing washers to the bolt heads
Replace the motor mounts
Replace the 2 power steering hoses to the reservoir
Drain the PS system you need 4 banjo sealing washers for the bottom of the rack
Replace the coolant 2 gallons of coolant 2 gallons of DIst. water
Remove the radiator and flush it out
Inspect the TOB and pilot bearing, replace either if in doubt
Replace the blue hose to clutch
Replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder for the clutch, Note use the old piston and spring from the MC
Replace the ignition wires and coil wires
Replace the spark plugs
Replace the airfilter
Replace the fuel filter
Check the rear pinch bolt on the driveshaft its probably loose torque to 66ft/lb and a drop of blue loctite on the bolt
Inspect the trans mounts see if they are collapsed
Check the shock absorbers maybe time for a new set of ????
Bleed the brakes (I suggest to use ATE super blue fluid)
Swap in some Porken chips and a 87 FPR,
Fit an X pipe ooops not stock.
Inspect the CE panel clean the fuses and relays
Clean the battery box and battery
Inspect the TT for rodents living in the foam isolator
Smear some DC111 on the door seals at the base of the side windows let the sun bake it in
Have fun Brendan
Merry Christmas to you and your family
12-12-2011, 05:53 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
What's wrong with the estate? It's red, and fast, and...
12-12-2011, 06:01 PM
#22
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
.....so, when someone posts something in a thread the OP doesn't find to their liking or hurts their feelers you will delete the percieved offensive post? WTF is up with that?
12-12-2011, 06:04 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Goodluck on your new project.
based on your description of its condition and the time it has been sitting,
I would, and this is a partial list , Look into and there isnt any mention on how far this resto is going but check into the following
Replacement of the Timing belt ,
Reset the timing pulleys with the Porken tool
New oil pump pulley, made of steel, remove the 1mm spacer behind the aluminum pulley if this is done
New Laso water pump and new bolts
New tensioner arm bushings, the rollers are probably OK
New oil pump O ring Note the main and oil pump radial seals are probably good
New pan gasket slicone or cork,( I would use silicone)
New tensioner boot and rear gasket
New thermostat and rear seal and O ring
New fuel lines, (though you may find them still pliable so maybe leave them alone)
Send out the injectors to be cleaned (witchunter is a good place)
Clean the MAF
Replace the AC lines from the compressor (or try twisting the hose on the metal line near the radiator if its moving then it will leak)
Replace the AC system O rings with the new green O rings, its easy with the engine out of the way
Replace the oil cooler lines (try the same test try twisting the hose if the line will twist on the metal portion it will leak)
Remove the oil fill spout and clean and add some hondabond to the O ringed metal seal, both sides this will keep it dry till its removed.
Replace the cam cover gaskets you may be able to fit the sealing washers to the bolt heads
Replace the motor mounts
Replace the 2 power steering hoses to the reservoir
Drain the PS system you need 4 banjo sealing washers for the bottom of the rack
Replace the coolant 2 gallons of coolant 2 gallons of DIst. water
Remove the radiator and flush it out
Inspect the TOB and pilot bearing, replace either if in doubt
Replace the blue hose to clutch
Replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder for the clutch, Note use the old piston and spring from the MC
Replace the ignition wires and coil wires
Replace the spark plugs
Replace the airfilter
Replace the fuel filter
Check the rear pinch bolt on the driveshaft its probably loose torque to 66ft/lb and a drop of blue loctite on the bolt
Inspect the trans mounts see if they are collapsed
Check the shock absorbers maybe time for a new set of ????
Bleed the brakes (I suggest to use ATE super blue fluid)
Swap in some Porken chips and a 87 FPR,
Fit an X pipe ooops not stock.
Inspect the CE panel clean the fuses and relays
Clean the battery box and battery
Inspect the TT for rodents living in the foam isolator
Smear some DC111 on the door seals at the base of the side windows let the sun bake it in
Have fun Brendan
Merry Christmas to you and your family
based on your description of its condition and the time it has been sitting,
I would, and this is a partial list , Look into and there isnt any mention on how far this resto is going but check into the following
Replacement of the Timing belt ,
Reset the timing pulleys with the Porken tool
New oil pump pulley, made of steel, remove the 1mm spacer behind the aluminum pulley if this is done
New Laso water pump and new bolts
New tensioner arm bushings, the rollers are probably OK
New oil pump O ring Note the main and oil pump radial seals are probably good
New pan gasket slicone or cork,( I would use silicone)
New tensioner boot and rear gasket
New thermostat and rear seal and O ring
New fuel lines, (though you may find them still pliable so maybe leave them alone)
Send out the injectors to be cleaned (witchunter is a good place)
Clean the MAF
Replace the AC lines from the compressor (or try twisting the hose on the metal line near the radiator if its moving then it will leak)
Replace the AC system O rings with the new green O rings, its easy with the engine out of the way
Replace the oil cooler lines (try the same test try twisting the hose if the line will twist on the metal portion it will leak)
Remove the oil fill spout and clean and add some hondabond to the O ringed metal seal, both sides this will keep it dry till its removed.
Replace the cam cover gaskets you may be able to fit the sealing washers to the bolt heads
Replace the motor mounts
Replace the 2 power steering hoses to the reservoir
Drain the PS system you need 4 banjo sealing washers for the bottom of the rack
Replace the coolant 2 gallons of coolant 2 gallons of DIst. water
Remove the radiator and flush it out
Inspect the TOB and pilot bearing, replace either if in doubt
Replace the blue hose to clutch
Replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder for the clutch, Note use the old piston and spring from the MC
Replace the ignition wires and coil wires
Replace the spark plugs
Replace the airfilter
Replace the fuel filter
Check the rear pinch bolt on the driveshaft its probably loose torque to 66ft/lb and a drop of blue loctite on the bolt
Inspect the trans mounts see if they are collapsed
Check the shock absorbers maybe time for a new set of ????
Bleed the brakes (I suggest to use ATE super blue fluid)
Swap in some Porken chips and a 87 FPR,
Fit an X pipe ooops not stock.
Inspect the CE panel clean the fuses and relays
Clean the battery box and battery
Inspect the TT for rodents living in the foam isolator
Smear some DC111 on the door seals at the base of the side windows let the sun bake it in
Have fun Brendan
Merry Christmas to you and your family
12-12-2011, 06:30 PM
#25
Team Owner
this list can be used as a check list.
Anything that looks good can be checked off,
it doesnt have to be followed but its merely a comprehensive guide.
Though following it and fixing the listed items will result in long term continuous operation
Anything that looks good can be checked off,
it doesnt have to be followed but its merely a comprehensive guide.
Though following it and fixing the listed items will result in long term continuous operation
12-12-2011, 06:58 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Just offering some friendly advice for Brendan.
But in his case, I hope he determined his budget before pullinng the motor.
We just did a budget on a project car ('78 Euro), and found pulling the motor didn't fit, nor did a complete respray.
I prefer to get in only as deep as I can get out. This is something Brendan has struggled with in the past.
As you know, you gotta pick and choose your battles.
12-12-2011, 07:13 PM
#27
Rennlist Member
Sounds like a tremendously good find, Brendan.
I think the motor pull is smart and will save time. Set a date to reinstall it in the next couple weeks and make it happen.
We've decided at my house to refresh seals, sensors, hoses and various wear parts --- often preemptively with a list like stans, but are de-emphasizing "making it new".
The needle can swing from fun & adventure to money & frustration real quick --- find a balance.
I think the motor pull is smart and will save time. Set a date to reinstall it in the next couple weeks and make it happen.
We've decided at my house to refresh seals, sensors, hoses and various wear parts --- often preemptively with a list like stans, but are de-emphasizing "making it new".
The needle can swing from fun & adventure to money & frustration real quick --- find a balance.
12-12-2011, 07:35 PM
#28
Race Car
12-12-2011, 07:48 PM
#29
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The pile-on when it comes to my projects gets old. Usually I take it but one had to go too far. Not you. I think all you did was "good luck"
12-12-2011, 09:51 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Replacement of the Timing belt
...yep
Reset the timing pulleys with the Porken tool
...yep. Originals are unworn and... dark green.
New oil pump pulley, made of steel, remove the 1mm spacer behind the aluminum pulley if this is done.
....Took it off quickly. The one I bought in 2003 was aluminum as well. Three other motors had aluminum ones and I have never seen a steel one. It will be in pictures.
New Laso water pump and new bolts
...Done. But its a Porsche pump.
New tensioner arm bushings, the rollers are probably OK
...Technically, bushings will be replaced, but rollers were not exactly okay. The engine had leaks at 31k and these will be replaced.
New oil pump O ring Note the main and oil pump radial seals are probably good
....May do radial seal as it may have been weeping. I cleaned everything, but some leaks were not recorded.
New pan gasket slicone or cork,( I would use silicone)
...As I am trying to keep with GregB's ideal that much of the original stuff works just fine when done properly, I already have the updated cork one, but i will use studs.
New tensioner boot and rear gasket
....obviously.
New thermostat and rear seal and O ring
...Funny - very difficult to get a real Wahl porsche T stat these days. You get a much wimper looking one made somewhere we don't wish to visit. I may have to use the one from my stash or find the proper part. Original part looks fine, but can't leave it in there really.
New fuel lines, (though you may find them still pliable so maybe leave them alone)
....Not soft. Not pliable. Need replacement.
Send out the injectors to be cleaned (witchunter is a good place)
... Already have NEW injectors ready.
Clean the MAF
...Already have NEW MAF ready.
Replace the AC lines from the compressor (or try twisting the hose on the metal line near the radiator if its moving then it will leak)
Replace the AC system O rings with the new green O rings, its easy with the engine out of the way
... have the green seal box, will have to assemble everything with new drier and hope for the best. AC compressor could be leaking, etc.
Replace the oil cooler lines (try the same test try twisting the hose if the line will twist on the metal portion it will leak)
....Will be redone locally. Some fittings may be re-plated.
Remove the oil fill spout and clean and add some hondabond to the O ringed metal seal, both sides this will keep it dry till its removed.
...Someone was in there and the metal oil fill spout separated from the plate that sits under it, and is yamabonded to the block. May separate that and use paper seal and sealant.
Replace the cam cover gaskets you may be able to fit the sealing washers to the bolt heads
...Cam cover gaskets and radial cam seals on the shelf, or most of them. No real leaks from there - mostly from a main seal. Which is obviously on the list as well.
Replace the motor mounts
...Obviously. Do you think I just got here?
Replace the 2 power steering hoses to the reservoir
....Lol.
Drain the PS system you need 4 banjo sealing washers for the bottom of the rack
.... Especially since I am replacing the rack. I don't think those seals down there would be lasting since 1997 - and if they did, it wouldn't be for long.
Inspect the TOB and pilot bearing, replace either if in doubt
Replace the blue hose to clutch
Replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder for the clutch, Note use the old piston and spring from the MC
...Clutch was replaced just before storage. All pieces are new, per receipt. Some cleanup is required, and pilot needs replacing.
Replace the ignition wires and coil wires
Replace the spark plugs
Replace the airfilter
Replace the fuel filter
...Like I said - you may not have noticed - the last time the car moved was 1997. Its a barn find. It was flat-bed trucked to me. Many of these things are already in the garbage to reduce clutter.
Gotta Go
...yep
Reset the timing pulleys with the Porken tool
...yep. Originals are unworn and... dark green.
New oil pump pulley, made of steel, remove the 1mm spacer behind the aluminum pulley if this is done.
....Took it off quickly. The one I bought in 2003 was aluminum as well. Three other motors had aluminum ones and I have never seen a steel one. It will be in pictures.
New Laso water pump and new bolts
...Done. But its a Porsche pump.
New tensioner arm bushings, the rollers are probably OK
...Technically, bushings will be replaced, but rollers were not exactly okay. The engine had leaks at 31k and these will be replaced.
New oil pump O ring Note the main and oil pump radial seals are probably good
....May do radial seal as it may have been weeping. I cleaned everything, but some leaks were not recorded.
New pan gasket slicone or cork,( I would use silicone)
...As I am trying to keep with GregB's ideal that much of the original stuff works just fine when done properly, I already have the updated cork one, but i will use studs.
New tensioner boot and rear gasket
....obviously.
New thermostat and rear seal and O ring
...Funny - very difficult to get a real Wahl porsche T stat these days. You get a much wimper looking one made somewhere we don't wish to visit. I may have to use the one from my stash or find the proper part. Original part looks fine, but can't leave it in there really.
New fuel lines, (though you may find them still pliable so maybe leave them alone)
....Not soft. Not pliable. Need replacement.
Send out the injectors to be cleaned (witchunter is a good place)
... Already have NEW injectors ready.
Clean the MAF
...Already have NEW MAF ready.
Replace the AC lines from the compressor (or try twisting the hose on the metal line near the radiator if its moving then it will leak)
Replace the AC system O rings with the new green O rings, its easy with the engine out of the way
... have the green seal box, will have to assemble everything with new drier and hope for the best. AC compressor could be leaking, etc.
Replace the oil cooler lines (try the same test try twisting the hose if the line will twist on the metal portion it will leak)
....Will be redone locally. Some fittings may be re-plated.
Remove the oil fill spout and clean and add some hondabond to the O ringed metal seal, both sides this will keep it dry till its removed.
...Someone was in there and the metal oil fill spout separated from the plate that sits under it, and is yamabonded to the block. May separate that and use paper seal and sealant.
Replace the cam cover gaskets you may be able to fit the sealing washers to the bolt heads
...Cam cover gaskets and radial cam seals on the shelf, or most of them. No real leaks from there - mostly from a main seal. Which is obviously on the list as well.
Replace the motor mounts
...Obviously. Do you think I just got here?
Replace the 2 power steering hoses to the reservoir
....Lol.
Drain the PS system you need 4 banjo sealing washers for the bottom of the rack
.... Especially since I am replacing the rack. I don't think those seals down there would be lasting since 1997 - and if they did, it wouldn't be for long.
Inspect the TOB and pilot bearing, replace either if in doubt
Replace the blue hose to clutch
Replace the slave cylinder and master cylinder for the clutch, Note use the old piston and spring from the MC
...Clutch was replaced just before storage. All pieces are new, per receipt. Some cleanup is required, and pilot needs replacing.
Replace the ignition wires and coil wires
Replace the spark plugs
Replace the airfilter
Replace the fuel filter
...Like I said - you may not have noticed - the last time the car moved was 1997. Its a barn find. It was flat-bed trucked to me. Many of these things are already in the garbage to reduce clutter.
Gotta Go