ARP Head Stud Torque
12-09-2011, 11:34 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Mike - Are you still making your head studs? I may as well use them as the same block has your main studs. I'll take out the arp studs somehow, maybe one at a time or something, and replace them with yours. I also need the rest of the clutch stuff - I think its just the hydraulic throw out bearing casing. I have to find some more stuff here to sell to pay for your shiny metal car parts (crack cocaine).
What is your torque sequence for your head studs?
What is your torque sequence for your head studs?
The tightening method is an angle to turn after an initial torque value. The actual angle is some odd number based on testing actual studs from a heat lot batch. It's not easy to keep the stud in tension through the range, there's a window and even with my necked down design and angle method, it's a close thing.
The idea of having to re-torque means something is not right. If the fastener is able to maintain tension through the range, that is pointless.
BTW, I'm quoting some 'engine' studs right now for a non-automotive application and they are exotic. Made from a 285ksi alloy. It was a surprise to see the drawings because they look just like my 928 studs!
12-10-2011, 11:37 AM
#17
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the reply.
For me I didn't want to reuse the OEM studs. The ARP kit is available and has a very good reputation. Already have clocked 3-4K miles on this engine build with boost. Today I'm just upgrading the heads. Washers and nuts were replaced this time around.
I am using the OEM head gasket for the sole reason don't want to re-torque after a heat cycle. Would prefer to re-torque but this engine it's just not practical.
For me I didn't want to reuse the OEM studs. The ARP kit is available and has a very good reputation. Already have clocked 3-4K miles on this engine build with boost. Today I'm just upgrading the heads. Washers and nuts were replaced this time around.
I am using the OEM head gasket for the sole reason don't want to re-torque after a heat cycle. Would prefer to re-torque but this engine it's just not practical.
12-10-2011, 01:57 PM
#18
What about circulating hot water through the engine at about 175 degrees? The F1 teams do that with water and oil prior to starting.
12-11-2011, 05:09 PM
#21
I have sent you a PM regarding the installation of these studs, I do acknowledge others difficulties and the advice given and while I have installed these on three engines using a specifically different technique, i have not had any trouble however I would not by choice reuse them by given the feedback I have now read.
12-11-2011, 05:23 PM
#22
Share?
12-12-2011, 02:02 AM
#24
The issue with ARP studs has never been about the studs. It has always been about the parts they clamp together. For sure the assembly and procedures required to use Steel studs in Aluminum engines is and needs to be different than steel engines.
