Best way to check possible overheat engine damage?
#1
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After doing a radiator replacement I realized after the car was running a bit warm that I forgot to zip-tie the lower radiator hose to the fan shroud. Unfortunately mid-point of the lower hose rubbed the front of the PS pulley and wore a hole that lost coolant.
The bad thing is it was so low on the hose it never sprayed on anything hot to give me steam from under the hood. And if you've ever run a car without coolant you know that the engine temp guage may not actually show over heating since the sensor generally needs to be in hot coolant to register a temperature.
So...long story short, I'm hoping I have not damaged the engine. The first thing will be to replace the hose and just drive it and see. What would be the best ways to check for other damage? I'm thinking most common potential damage would be a warped cylinder head that would show on a compression check. Any other thoguhts?
The bad thing is it was so low on the hose it never sprayed on anything hot to give me steam from under the hood. And if you've ever run a car without coolant you know that the engine temp guage may not actually show over heating since the sensor generally needs to be in hot coolant to register a temperature.
So...long story short, I'm hoping I have not damaged the engine. The first thing will be to replace the hose and just drive it and see. What would be the best ways to check for other damage? I'm thinking most common potential damage would be a warped cylinder head that would show on a compression check. Any other thoguhts?
#2
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Just fill it up and drive it. If there are problems you will soon know it. Then deal with what is rather than what might be. But those early motors are pretty tough to hurt and aluminum heads on an aluminum block work pretty well.
#3
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OK - just ordered lower radiator hose, I'll repost when it arrives and I have a chance to check. Hopefully back on the road this weekend. I guess it can't hurt that this company cut it's teeth on air cooled engines, eh?
#4
Under the Lift
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I drove a whole lap around Thunderhill with no coolant after my heater valve fractured with the temp gauge pegged in the red zone and the digital dash showing a graphic of my engine on fire. That was 8 or 9 years ago. Engine didn't suffer any afteraffects.
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Joanne Hodge (12-30-2019)
#5
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Similar thing happened to my 86.5 a few years ago and it didn't seem to bother it at all.
#6
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Update - hose arrived Monday. Just installed and filled with coolant / water. Took it for a 20 minute drive at lunch. So far no issues. Maybe I dodged a bullet.
With the thicker Aluminum radiator, that hose get's mightly close to the front nut onthe PS pulley. It's pretty critical that it stay ziptied to the shroud at that point.
With the thicker Aluminum radiator, that hose get's mightly close to the front nut onthe PS pulley. It's pretty critical that it stay ziptied to the shroud at that point.
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#10
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I think the 944 was an iron block? I'm guessing the warping is often a result of heating rates for dissimilar metals. Aluminum block and head probably helps on the 928. Plus an 8 qt oil sump combined with the issue happening on a cool day can't hurt either.
Niot a bad call on either the Lisle test kit. If I start losing coolant somewhere unexplained, run hot, or get other indications of head damage, I may go that route.
Niot a bad call on either the Lisle test kit. If I start losing coolant somewhere unexplained, run hot, or get other indications of head damage, I may go that route.
#12
Done With Sidepatch
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Actually the blocks are mostly aluminum branded as "Alusil" which is comprised of approximately 78% aluminium and 17% silicon. I bow to wikipedia for the numbers but I believe they're close.
#13
Captain Obvious
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Sounds like your are ok. BUT if it does leak a bit, use a Block Sealer (follow the instrucitons) and only if even this desn't work, then take the egine apart. Block Sealers can do wonder on small coolant leaks.