Gary Knox

Pictures of Rt rear fender attached to my previous post.

Gary-

rgs944

That looks great, My paint is far from perfect but I really like having original paint on my car. I want to do this but I am scared of the bad things. Gary, do you have the original paint? I am worried my paint might be just a little too hard to get good results.

Courtshark

I need to borrow this bad boy soon. Gary, is it available? Waitlist?

mark kibort

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ir-intake.html

this will do a much better job
wood bat

1.5" more room, without it looking like anything was done. takes finess, but its possible.
thats with 275s as pictured.

mark kibort

allthough, that roller seems to do a pretty good job, but i dont like the duck bill look. any pictures with the tire on the car, post rolling??

Hilton

That looks excellent - I too dislike the duck bill look, but that's very well done.

Can you get someone to video you doing the other side?

(Or Petty Jr.s car )

mark kibort

Thanks

I was ALL ready to video tape me doing this one, becuase the owner is a litte **** about the car, and it had to be PERFECT, with no chance of an error, so i did the minimum fender roll. I lost my camera, so i couldnt film it, but ill have to film doing petty's car. it amounts to using the fat end of a wood bat, and jacking the car up to not get too much push out of the fender, and doing it in stages. the nice thing about the bat, is because we are using the tire for lerage, we are also using it for position, so the fenders are pushed out matching the actual tire position. this means the gap from front to rear of the tire is even., you cant do this as easily with the tire off the car, thats why i want to see what the roller looks like as a final result. i got 1.25" of space gained by using the bad, and it all starts with the edge being folded back on the fender.
anyway, it turned out perfect, lots of room with no visable rippling or damage, and an even bulge around the tire.

KenRudd

I'm the latest user of the 928OC fender tool, and let me tell you, I am impressed.

First, Gary Knox has been great about shipping and following up on the actual rental of the tool. The tool itself is packed in a well made reusable container that also has other useful tools like a heat gun, various clamps and a dead blow hammer. Bodyshop-in-a-box! As I understand it, Ed Standke made the customized hub adapter, and it works perfectly.

I wanted to comment on something Mark K. said about using the bat with the wheels on. The fender roller bolts to the hub and rotates with the hub, so it also make a perfect circle at exactly the same distance from the plane of the hub. It essentially follows the exact path of the wheel at whatever radius and distance you set it at.

The job Mark did with the bat is incredible, and I am impressed, but I suspect ham-fisted guys like me ( whose favorite tool in the whole box was the dead blow hammer) may have more luck with the roller, as it appears to require less finesse. I can't swear to this, as I did not try both side by side.

On to my experience:

In the rear, I installed 18x295x30 Hankook Evo v12 tires on Carrera III 18x11 rims with an ET of 51. According to the Wheel Fitment Calculator, I need a thin spacer on on the inside ( I chose 5mm) and then I would need to roll the fender by 2.13MM:

Well from this, it seemed to me that to gain 2.13mm, all I would need to do was get the actual lip out of the way.



In the front, I am running 18x225x40 Hankook Evo v12 tires on Carrera III 18x8 rims with an ET of 57. According to the Wheel Fitment Calculator, no rolling is required:



Because the fronts seemed less critical ( the spread sheet says I did not need to roll at all), and because I already have some minor paint issues on the front left fender, so less pucker factor, I tackled those first in my garage, with the goal of just getting the lip out of the way and learning any tricks. Although I don't have a video, and its a hard process to describe, let me say there was no drama. I initially tried to "start" the bend by having the roller at a sharp angle to the lip to begin to push it upward, but what I found was a good couple upward raps from the dead blow hammer will get the bend started enough to give the roller the traction it needed. Then, a bunch of iterations of rolling it back and forth while progressively adjusting it outward and upward as needed, and soon your lip is essentially flat against the fender and you have about 1cm more clearance. On that note, make sure that the inside of the fender is clean, or those pebbles will now show through to the outside of your fender!

I waited to do the rears until I could borrow some time on Dell Tolin's lift ( LVDell) and mustered some other friends for moral support.

In some ways, the rears are easier:
-I did not have to remove fender liners
-With my thin spacers in place, I did not have to drop brake calipers to give room for roller rotation ( may not have even needed the spacers)
-The steel was more ductile, so it seemed to roll easier.




Although I thought I would just need to get the lip out of the way and push the fender out maybe a hair( covering the 2.13 MM that the spreadsheet suggested) this was not the case. I needed more than 2mm for the wheel/tire combination I was using, as with just the first go around, the wheel still rubbed the inside of the fender when travel got near the top.

I see a couple possibilities:
-The spreadsheet is set up for GT cars, which I understand it already have rolled fender lips, so any rolling is in addition to moving the fender lips out of the way
-There are certainly size variations for different tires themselves
-I don't know how tight the tolerances on bodywork are.

In any case, taking the fender out another 5mm seems to have resolved this issue, but did require two "rolling sessions". I'm still testing, and have some clay stuck up there to monitor for clearance and rubbing, and will post picutres of the final results after this weekend

A note on the 5mm spacer: I bought it and am using it because the Fitment Calculator says I need it to prevent rubbing on the inside. However, in a static situation, without the space, the rims are close to, but not touching the lower suspension. I realize that due to the Weissach axle and maybe other factors, the wheel pivots to some degree. So, how much clearance do I need? How much movement is there?

Compared to other common 928 tasks, this is much easier than a timing belt & water pump change, but harder than a brake pad change. No tight spaces, and little chance of stuck bolts shearing/rounding off. Only big risk is paint cracking, and keeping the paint warm with the heat gun seemed to work on my 24 year old paint. This tool, and the the discount on my last big order from Roger has way more than paid for my 928OC membership!!

mark kibort

ken,

1. the radius control of the tool is not thesame as the bat following the shape and distance of the tire relative to the fender. true, you need some finess, but its not that hard, BUT, you can do a lot of damage if not done right. the end result is NO paint issues, as a bonus as well using the bat.

2. the bat allows for the lip to be folded back perfectly or to get more like 1.5" of space in the rear. enough to put 275s on the rear and use the 18mm spacers too.

KenRudd

1. My pictures seem to be failing. I'll try to fix, and add others as I get them.
2. Mark, can't argue with your results, yours looks great and I am impressed that you got 1.5" with no duckbill or any drama. I really wish I could sit in with somebody doing a "bat roll" to see how it goes. If you do get video, please post...

mark kibort

I will ! thanks! it reallly looks even better than the pictures too, and i did push it out so far, the car looks funny now with the dinky 275 tires!

it gives the little bit of buldge that the stock S4 should have had form the factory.

KenRudd

Pictures fixed.
Addtional Pics here.

and here

Jon B.

Thought about using the OC tool as well. But I already have 295's on the rear with a small spacer to get the wheel away from te suspension.

Biggest thing about using the OC tool is that is supports the OC.

OBehave

I totally agree! I wish this had been around a few years ago when I did my first 928. I tried the baseball bat thing and totally screwed it up.Ruined the paint and the fender. Luckily my wife totaled it so I didn't have to drive it that way for to long!
Right now we working on more of these types of loaner tool kits for OC members who want to do more service to their cars so hopefully more cars will be around in the coming years. Members helping members,its a good thing.

Gary Knox

Ken,

Thanks for your comments about using the tool. Nothing like a satisfied customer - even when it is a loan!

The tool should be back in it's "home" storage garage by mid-late this week (2/19). So - drop me an e-mail if you'd like to roll YOUR fenders.

Gary-