Notices
928 Forum 1978-1995
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: 928 Specialists

Hatch release button on new illuminated switch panel...anyone done it?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-27-2011, 08:41 PM
  #1  
88MB928
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
88MB928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Hatch release button on new illuminated switch panel...anyone done it?

So I finally got my new illuminated window switch panel (by Hans & Paul) installed and I couldn't be happier. The unit is simply amazing...check out pics below.

Anyhow, I chose to use the "bonus button" on the panel for the hatch release and was just wondering if by chance anyone has already been through this and could provide any info/pointers on the wiring process. Thanks!
Attached Images   
Old 11-27-2011, 09:24 PM
  #2  
borland
Drifting
 
borland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Camarillo, CA, USA
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

With the factory switch wiring, you need to open one of the side doors for the pull switch to work. Otherwise the rear hatch motor does not find an electrical ground. It's probably a safety feature being wired like that.

Some have modified the hatch release motor ground to work with aftermarket keyless entry system. This defeats the safety feature, however I found a way around this when I installed a keyless remote on my 90' S4.

So, on my keyless remote, the doors don't need to be open for the keyless remote to release the hatch. However pulling the pull switch does require one side door to be open. But this required adding a relay.



more details here....

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...problem-3.html
Old 11-28-2011, 10:22 AM
  #3  
Gary Knox
Rennlist Member
 
Gary Knox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 3,380
Received 451 Likes on 224 Posts
Default

Mirlene,

I removed the rear wiper on my '94, and bought a switch from a 968 that has a hatch opening decal on it (same design as our window etc. control switches). Removed the original hatch opener on the driver's side (GTS's do not have one on the passenger side) and ran two wires to the connections on the replacement "hatch opener switch". Works like a charm, now can open the hatch from either side, and do not have a "lump" switch on the left side of the drivers seat.

Gary Knox
Old 11-28-2011, 03:53 PM
  #4  
Manfred
Pro
 
Manfred's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Gary, I assume that means that the switch will function whether the door is open or not? If that's the case, then I would assume that the switch takes enough deliberate pressure that you don't worry about accidentally pressing the button while moving--of course it makes it less likely to press the wrong button now that they're illuminated.
Old 11-28-2011, 04:42 PM
  #5  
Alan
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 13,426
Received 421 Likes on 288 Posts
Default

Actually what Gary did provides the same interlock with the doors., I do think this is worthwhile maintaining.

You do need to remove the interlock for a keyless entry if you want to pop the trunk because the doors will be closed. That's what I did on my KE implementation - its not so hard to do. Various options on how.

However if doing this mod - I'd still maintain the interlocks on the pull switch(es) - its even more important for a switch located here on the console IMO - much easier to accidentally activate it - how about if that happened in a car wash when you were trying to activate the rear wiper... not so unlikely...

Alan

Last edited by Alan; 11-28-2011 at 06:21 PM.
Old 11-28-2011, 05:53 PM
  #6  
hans14914
Rennlist Member
 
hans14914's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,615
Likes: 0
Received 286 Likes on 122 Posts
Default

The spare output from the current generation switch module is a normally open 12v-switched. So, I think that you should be able to go directly from spare output directly to the yellow-wire side of the factory hatch release switch, and it should work. I have not tested this, but by my quick glance at the schematic, it should. In the off-chance it didnt, it would be very easy to install a SPST-NO micro-relay under that cover, and use the switch module output to energize the coil.

The reason we do not offer the hatch release or the PKD modules in a plug-and-play prewired arrangement is to limit our liability. We do beleive it is a good idea to retain some level of safety on the hatch release, and do not advise bypassing the factory safety-measures in this particular application.

Thanks
Hans
Old 11-28-2011, 06:15 PM
  #7  
blown 87
Rest in Peace
Rennlist Member
 
blown 87's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
Posts: 9,903
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

If I ever get one of the cool new switch set ups, that will be what I will have in the unused space.
Old 11-28-2011, 07:21 PM
  #8  
borland
Drifting
 
borland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Camarillo, CA, USA
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by hans14914
The spare output from the current generation switch module is a normally open 12v-switched. So, I think that you should be able to go directly from spare output directly to the yellow-wire side of the factory hatch release switch, and it should work. I have not tested this, but by my quick glance at the schematic, it should. In the off-chance it didnt, it would be very easy to install a SPST-NO micro-relay under that cover, and use the switch module output to energize the coil.

The reason we do not offer the hatch release or the PKD modules in a plug-and-play prewired arrangement is to limit our liability. We do beleive it is a good idea to retain some level of safety on the hatch release, and do not advise bypassing the factory safety-measures in this particular application.

Thanks
Hans
That should work. The reason I used the DPDT micro relay is that the KE trunk/hatch/accessary wire sinks power to ground. Since your switch plate can provide a positive feed, you'd only need the SPDT.
Old 11-28-2011, 11:54 PM
  #9  
88MB928
Advanced
Thread Starter
 
88MB928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thanks for the input everyone. I don't mind the safety feature and would agree that its even more important if rerouted to the center console. I can't tell you how many times I've had the sunroof or rear wiper switch engaged inadvertently.

Ok so I'll take a crack at this as soon as I can and report back in case anyone else is interested in doing this.
Old 11-29-2011, 09:58 AM
  #10  
Gary Knox
Rennlist Member
 
Gary Knox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 3,380
Received 451 Likes on 224 Posts
Default

Alan is correct, my "rearrangement" of the switch for the hatch still has the interlock feature. Hatch can only be opened with one of the two car doors open.

Gary-
Old 04-21-2020, 05:20 PM
  #11  
Drewshepard60
Rennlist Member
 
Drewshepard60's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 153
Received 15 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

I love it...where do I get one!
Old 04-22-2020, 01:43 PM
  #12  
dr bob
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
 
dr bob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 20,506
Received 546 Likes on 409 Posts
Default

Jump into the Delorean and set the target to 2011, when the short run of these panels was offered. Accelerate...


Maybe someone has one they bought but didn't install, and they are willing to part with it.
Old 04-22-2020, 02:33 PM
  #13  
Drewshepard60
Rennlist Member
 
Drewshepard60's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 153
Received 15 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

The Delorean is broken down...the shark is still going strong...lol



Quick Reply: Hatch release button on new illuminated switch panel...anyone done it?



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 12:41 AM.