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Tips for Installing rear window trim/molding?

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Old 11-19-2011, 12:30 PM
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captcashew
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Default Tips for Installing rear window trim/molding?

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Maybe someone has some tips on how to do this. My 1987 928 S4 was missing the lower window trim/molding, so I found a replacement. The catch is, I'm have a heck of a time getting it into the rubber seal. It's not a straight piece, it has the two curves on it. I can get the top part or the end part in no problem, but I'm not having any luck. I'm sure there has to be an easier way to do this. Anyone have any tips or tricks? I can reply with pics if it helps.

Thanks in advance.

-Bill
Old 11-19-2011, 12:32 PM
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77tony
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Bump. T

Last edited by 77tony; 08-20-2012 at 07:19 PM.
Old 11-19-2011, 01:00 PM
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stevedavies
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Do you mean the rear quarter windows? If so I think you need to remove the glass first
Old 11-19-2011, 10:19 PM
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captcashew
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OK, I found this, so I might give this a try first:

http://porsche928forums.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=14

Thanks
Old 11-19-2011, 10:33 PM
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Jsulli
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I simply squirted some dish soap into the groove and pushed the trim in.
Old 11-20-2011, 05:48 AM
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Podguy
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The link is a good way to go. A string will work in the same way. You might want to wax the string with some candle wax first.

DO NOT even consider removing the window
Old 11-20-2011, 08:07 AM
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heinrich
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Search the forum. Your link probably works. I made a tool that levers up from inside the trim rubber. Works as well.
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Old 11-24-2011, 10:41 PM
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martinss
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I just did the job. Lubricating the spline of the trim strip and the groove in the rubber gasket makes a huge difference as Jsulli said. In my case I used DuPont Teflon protector and it just slipped in. After trying without it I could not believe how easy the job was with lubricant. If you haven't done it already, I recommend you make sure that the ends of the trim piece are inserted in the corner metal pieces before you push the spline home.
Old 08-20-2012, 05:41 PM
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Richter12x2
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Seconded, or thirded or whatever. When I did a search on this almost two years ago the common consensus seemed to be "It's just a pain in the butt to do". Finally today I started messing with it again, tried using a flat screwdriver to pull the gasket back and it wouldn't slide for me, so I sprayed a little white lithium grease (first, least messy grease I came to) and the sucker just snapped in like nobody's business. I literally put this off for a year and a half. :P
Old 08-20-2012, 06:15 PM
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Dean_Fuller
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I would of never guessed you can just push those on. Live and learn. I was in the camp that thought the glass had to come out first.
Old 08-20-2012, 06:23 PM
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-GDG-
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Originally Posted by martinss
I just did the job. Lubricating the spline of the trim strip and the groove in the rubber gasket makes a huge difference as Jsulli said. In my case I used DuPont Teflon protector and it just slipped in. After trying without it I could not believe how easy the job was with lubricant. If you haven't done it already, I recommend you make sure that the ends of the trim piece are inserted in the corner metal pieces before you push the spline home.
Not trying to jack the thread or anything but my drivers side quarter window doesn't have the corner metal pieces (bought it that way). Does that mean I have to start from scratch and do the molding over to attach them? I have them both but I'm clueless how to get them on.
Old 08-20-2012, 06:39 PM
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Richter12x2
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Yep, but if you lubricate the strips it's really easy. You're talking about the smaller corner piece toward the front of the car? They'll need to come off. If you're talking about the rearward triangle piece on a pre-87 with the S spoiler, then the main pieces won't have to come off, but the spoiler corner will. There's one obvious screw and two that aren't obvious at the front and right at the curve. Pull up the bottom side and you can just get enough room to get the screwdriver in there. Putting the center ones back on requires four hands... two to lift the foam rubber up and two more to install the screw and screwdriver.

Another tip I just figured out - it's easier to assemble the corners off the car, and install the bottom piece first - the curve will only fit in one location, but the top can be installed about a half inch forward or back of where it needs to go which throws off the alignment for the bottom if you do it second. It still just snaps in with a little lubricant. Try liquid dish soap, white lithium grease works great, but it's obnoxious to clean off. Dish soap will rinse out after a few rains.
Old 08-20-2012, 09:43 PM
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LT Texan
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If lubrication helps it slip in, won't it help it slip out?
Old 08-21-2012, 12:17 AM
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Richter12x2
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Awwww, yeah!




Oh wait, on the car? Probably, but not with just the power of 70mph airflow alone. I had to pull one side back off because the little sleeve slipped off, you still have to grab hold and pull, it's not going to fall off in the parking lot.
Old 03-19-2019, 09:22 PM
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jwbeck17
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I need to install some new quarter panel molding since mine is broken. Was thinking of going the lubricant route since I won't have to remove the window. Here is what I presume would be the steps once the old broken piece is removed:
  1. Clean the seal and seal trench to remove debris - with degreaser?
  2. lubricate seal, seal trench and new molding spline - What lubricant to use? White lithium grease? DC111?
  3. Insert molding ends underneath existing corner caps
  4. Heat seal with hair dryer
  5. Carefully insert molding spline into seal trench at one corner, making sure not to bend molding. press evenly - use a roller to help?
  6. Continue pressing carefully along the molding until the entire molding is seated
Sound like the right approach?


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