Bill Ball

I think what he is suggesting, and I have watched him do this, is to do a static check the tension warning circuit by adjusting belt tension up and down and observing when the circuit breaks using a Ohm meter on the connector in the cover. I think it's more of an academic exercise. When I did this, the circuit broke with the belt tension adjusted at the bottom of the Kempf tool window. I suppose this result might be different if that pesky washer/spacer near the end of tensioner were missing.

Manfred

You can also test the belt by accelerating 0-100 as fast as you can, making sure to take it past redline a few times. If the belt breaks, it needs to be replaced.

SeanR

Keyboard and Dr. Pepper don't mix well, thanks.

Manfred

Sorry, did it come out your nose?

dcrasta

Anyone can be wrong at times, because no one is always right.

Some people handle themselves with more grace and class than others.

@Porken > Thanks for the info about the ROW 16valve cars.

dcrasta

I can see why someone would want to test at what tension level the warning light activated. That is actually a smart way thing to do.

Podguy

Manfred,

You are absloutely right - this car is a Porsche - right.

I do stand corrected on the grounding issue - I am a bit dyslexic at times. However, an important part of the circuit is the light which is tested when the ignition is turned on - as are all the lights. If one or more of the warning lights are out then the circuits are not valid and the lights or the cause of the light failure should be checked.

I did have a problem with an intermittant belt light and found the circuit and not the belt was triggering a warning around 2500 RPMS. It is possible to set the circuit up so it will trigger at different tensions. That is why I use an ohm meter to measure the resistance and the trigger point.

As far as the 85-86 ROW cars they did allow for a 32 valve engine option. I do know the 83 ROW car has neither a 45 degree mark nor a timing belt circuit. Nor is the 83 ROW engine an interference engine. Since I have not owned a 85-86 ROW car I will take other's word for it. Although to date I have not seen a 16 valve interferrence engine.

I stand by the rest of what I wrote.

Landseer

85&6 ROW share the convergence of electrical systems with the 32V USA & (and 32V ROW), and have warning light ( 84 ROW 16V doesn't ). Yes, hard to see tracking on early 32V and can't see camgear alignment through cover vents. Improved for 86.

Under heavy accel, like double kickdown -type accel, a slightly loose belt (low in the Kempf tool window) on 32V will often trigger the light. Doesn't mean you have to pull off to the side of the interstate and call AAA. You make a judgement call. Drive. Park. Or, if you know everything in the belt pathway is recently freshened, you might put 3/4 turn on the tensioner bolt. Then get it home to fix it. I've done all three depending on the situation. And I think some of you have too.

To the OP, if its been a few years since you were inside, probably a good time to go-through the system and upgrade (if a rebuilt was used last time) the pump, belt and replace all the wear parts. There is more collective knowledge on the belt pathway today on rennlist than ever before, more than almost any 928 mechanic including dealer would have had wherever you took it last time.

FredR

Dan,

There's nowt wrong with being slycsdexic. Many [myself included] believe it is a gift- not a debit- a rearrangement of "talents" if you like. If you happen to be left handed and part genius then you ar ein good company [Albert Einstein & Richard Branson to name a couple].

Best wishes

Ferd

WallyP

Fred,

I don't know whether they have chapters in the Old Country - but was your mother a member of DAM?

(Mothers Against Dyslexia)

FredR

Wally,

I dare say she might have been had they known what it was in those days! I suspect I nearly drove her to be a member of MAD though!

My school reports always said the same thing: "Would be brilliant if he could concentrate for more than 10 seconds". I was halfway through university before I knew what the word "study" actually meant! Up to that point university was about listening to rock music and drinking loads of beer!

In those days I was into British motorcycles owning a Bonneville and a BSA Rocket Gold Star [hopefully still in my UK garage]. The 928 thing came in 1977 when I saw the first pre release pics of it in the press.

Regards

Fred

Pyzik

I drove last night and after getting on the highway and reaching the speed of 65mph I noticed that my b tension light was on so I pulled to the shoulder lane and shut the car off , 15 sec later I restarted and light was off so i drove home another 5 miles . Would it be possible it was a glitch , because 4 days earlier I got the car to 3 k rpm on the 2gear and I saw a oil light light up and then shut off , and I have perfect oil level .I had the belt and water pump changed about 900 miles ago , is it time to recheck the belt ? It doesn't mean that the next time the light comes on again the belt will snap will. It? Will I make it to my mechanic (5miles). I looked for that light since I changed the belt and it finally happened ... Scary stuff ...

SMTCapeCod

Pretty sure .....that my 83 Euro does too. Go figure. Hope my memory isn't getting that bad...

So on the S3 (my 86.5)- does the red exclamation point trip from a timing belt moitoring system or is there no monitor whatsoever?
Suppose I can look it up when I get home..

blown 87

On that day he (the 356) was faster than a Corvette.

SteveG

The Porsche recommendation is to re-tension a new belt at 1,500 to 2000 miles. If I were you I would check it ASAP, then again in another 1,000 or so; I tend to have the covers off once a year anyway, and if I do that, I'm certainly going to inspect the belt and anything it touches. The OP was in the heat of a street race, IIRC 6,000 rpm. I would have no problem driving that car or yours, carefully, to a shop or home and then checking it. YMMV.