New Stereo - Want to use existing 10 Speaker Setup
#1
New Stereo - Want to use existing 10 Speaker Setup
I ended up removing the POs old ghetto stereo setup that mostly worked but had an undesired effect of occasionally draining the battery.
I’d like to reuse the existing 10 speakers with a modern basic radio. I’m not looking for AMPs, Bass boosters, lighted power cables, etc. I’ve searched but haven’t found any threads on this.
Any advice and recommendations are welcome.
I’d like to reuse the existing 10 speakers with a modern basic radio. I’m not looking for AMPs, Bass boosters, lighted power cables, etc. I’ve searched but haven’t found any threads on this.
Any advice and recommendations are welcome.
#2
Was the original amp (under the passenger hatch release button hump) and wiring from the amp to the headunit area left inplace when the ghetto system was installed? I would expect they just disconnected it and left it alone rather than try to strip it all out. If so, you should be able to hook your headunit into it, maybe with a few adapters. I've hooked a variety of headunits into the stock amp. Also, I would check inside the doors and rear speakers holes for the original speaker wiring from the amp.
#3
Lets hope your stock amp is still there.
Used from 928 Int. ~$400.00
New from 928 Int. ~$1,100.00
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...s.asp?dept=141
Than if your stock cross-overs have been removed the price and time searching just goes up from there
Keep in mind, one mans "Ghetto Rig" is another mans mobile Concert Hall
Used from 928 Int. ~$400.00
New from 928 Int. ~$1,100.00
http://www.mailordercentral.com/928i...s.asp?dept=141
Than if your stock cross-overs have been removed the price and time searching just goes up from there
Keep in mind, one mans "Ghetto Rig" is another mans mobile Concert Hall
#5
Thanks guys.
The original Amp on passenger side is gone. When I dyed the interior leather I got a birds eye view of the speaker wiring. Lots of splices from OEM setup to Ghetto setup.
The rear speaker wires currently all terminate at the passenger side Amp location. The front speaker wires terminate in the console dash where the radio goes.
What I’d like to do is buy a radio that has RF, LF, RR and LR outputs to the speakers but I see way more speaker wires than that. From the WSM schematics the rear speakers look like a high, mid and “deep” arrangement going to the passenger side Amp.
I’m hoping for a crossover circuit that takes the +/- speaker feed from the radio and splits the signal to the 3 components. Same for the front speakers.
I guess I’m old school simplistic but I want a stereo to drive RF, LF, RR & LF like I had in my 68 Firebird in HS.
The original Amp on passenger side is gone. When I dyed the interior leather I got a birds eye view of the speaker wiring. Lots of splices from OEM setup to Ghetto setup.
The rear speaker wires currently all terminate at the passenger side Amp location. The front speaker wires terminate in the console dash where the radio goes.
What I’d like to do is buy a radio that has RF, LF, RR and LR outputs to the speakers but I see way more speaker wires than that. From the WSM schematics the rear speakers look like a high, mid and “deep” arrangement going to the passenger side Amp.
I’m hoping for a crossover circuit that takes the +/- speaker feed from the radio and splits the signal to the 3 components. Same for the front speakers.
I guess I’m old school simplistic but I want a stereo to drive RF, LF, RR & LF like I had in my 68 Firebird in HS.
#6
Actually not much has happened. Have fun trying to replace the stock 6.5s with something that sounds better in that location. Better to refoam them as needed.
#7
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#8
On the speaker front, I would hold off on driver selection until Hans has finalized the design of his 6.5" drivers that will fit in the stock location (which is notorious for requiring very shallow speakers)
He already has some tweeters and 4" drivers that fit perfectly in the stock positions and mount on the stock speed clips on the door panels. The grilles shown are not the final iteration but the final version have circular-hole mesh like factory.
He already has some tweeters and 4" drivers that fit perfectly in the stock positions and mount on the stock speed clips on the door panels. The grilles shown are not the final iteration but the final version have circular-hole mesh like factory.
#9
If you are using the original speakers, you need to be aware that the larger ones are two-Ohm, while the smaller ones are four-Ohm. The original amp is set for those values - getting a good balance with just the head unit or an aftermarket amp will be a challenge.
Refoaming isn't difficult or expensive, and there have been several reports that the stock system sounds pretty good - not audiophile good, but pretty good.
Refoaming isn't difficult or expensive, and there have been several reports that the stock system sounds pretty good - not audiophile good, but pretty good.
#10
This is what I just installed on mine. It fits perfectly and I reused the stock mount, shaving off the old speaker ( well Colin did this for me )
The factory 6.5 was 2ohm so is this one...
http://www.cdtaudio.com/2ohm/cl6ex2.htm
The factory 6.5 was 2ohm so is this one...
http://www.cdtaudio.com/2ohm/cl6ex2.htm
#11
I'm doing the same project on my newly acquired 91 S4. My amp is bad.
Bought new as "non" bling a head unit as I could find as a temporary unit until I find a"permanent" solution down the road. Pioneer DEH-6300UB mostly black with the ability to have amber as the color choice. Not perfect but again is a short term fix as opposed to riding in silence all the time.
Left the 10 speaker set up in place and let the head unit "try" drive the original speakers and blew the head unit 3 songs down the road. Unit went dark. Took it to what I thought was a trusted guy in the install biz and said the ohms related to my new head unit and old speakers will never work and I will continue to blow the head unit unless I update the speakers. I told him before the recommendation I would not be buying speakers from him.
I also validated this with the guy that helps on other stuff on my car and he said that seems plausible and should update the speakers.
Thoughts?
Bought new as "non" bling a head unit as I could find as a temporary unit until I find a"permanent" solution down the road. Pioneer DEH-6300UB mostly black with the ability to have amber as the color choice. Not perfect but again is a short term fix as opposed to riding in silence all the time.
Left the 10 speaker set up in place and let the head unit "try" drive the original speakers and blew the head unit 3 songs down the road. Unit went dark. Took it to what I thought was a trusted guy in the install biz and said the ohms related to my new head unit and old speakers will never work and I will continue to blow the head unit unless I update the speakers. I told him before the recommendation I would not be buying speakers from him.
I also validated this with the guy that helps on other stuff on my car and he said that seems plausible and should update the speakers.
Thoughts?
#13
Rockford Fostgate makes a very small 4ch 75W amp, pbr300x4, that fits easily in the stock amp location, but a modern head unit that'll drive those 4 speakers should be no problem.
I replaced the two front 4" and rear 6.5" with JLs and they sound good.
I replaced the two front 4" and rear 6.5" with JLs and they sound good.
#14
Which JL 6.5? Several years ago, I installed their top-rated 3W0 in place of the 6.5s. Huge magnet required grinding quite a bit of the structure framing behind the speaker hole. The 3W0's ended up sounding rather thin and lifeless with little bass punch. They need a sealed enclosure. I have them sitting in the garage in a box along with several other honking 6-6.5" bass speakers that failed to deliver much sound in that rear bolster location. The closest I came to good sound was some older MB Quarts 6.5s with the bolster cavity stuffed with polyester.
#15
I currently have all my 10 speakers running off a 4-channel deck.
The front speakers are wired to the front speaker outputs and the rear speakers and 6.5" are run in series off the rear speaker outputs on the deck. No blown up stereo so far.
Eventually I am going to replace all the smaller speakers with the ones from Hans (and run them off the deck) and I have a set of CDT M6+ subwoofers I am going to put in the 6.5" location and run those with a small amp in the factory location off the decks sub outputs.
The front speakers are wired to the front speaker outputs and the rear speakers and 6.5" are run in series off the rear speaker outputs on the deck. No blown up stereo so far.
Eventually I am going to replace all the smaller speakers with the ones from Hans (and run them off the deck) and I have a set of CDT M6+ subwoofers I am going to put in the 6.5" location and run those with a small amp in the factory location off the decks sub outputs.