My mechanic said the parts he took out all looked clean.

Water Tstat is the 85°C standard issue stock.

On both the 90 GT I had and my current GTS the oil press, battery, and water temp all looked like this warmed up at idle...



I thought they were supposed to all be straight up and down so you could see it was A-Okay at a glance.

Before we changed the oil thermostat it was running like in your picture, just below the second white line.

Sorry, don't know what the part numbers are. My mechanic did it. I did call Sean and ask him about it and he said he had problems stripping out the threads getting to it.

 

I was told this would happen 90% of the time.

What did he do to fix te stripped threads?

 

Thanks for the info!

 

RKD

I see that your temperature gauge doesn’t show any numbers. Compared to mine (see attached) it appears that you’re engine temperature is running at 175F.

Attached pictures of my 94 are made idling at 680 RPM as you can see at 160F degrees my oil pressure runs at 3.5 – at 180F the oil pressure runs at 2.5 and at 185F it runs at 1.8

In the past I only had changed out the thermostat and the large outer o-ring gasket a year ago I replaced the inner thermostat seal and ever since the engine has run steady at 185F even during the past hot summer in Dallas

 

 

Your temperature and oil pressure are looking good. What's your voltage 12.5-13?

 

I'm lazy, I just photoshopped the pic Borland posted.

 

Here ya go...drove around for bout 15 minutes. Temp stayed at just above 170 until I stopped at a convenience store to get some coffee. When I came back out and started it up is was half way between 170 and the next mark. Went ripping around for another 5 minutes before pulling in and shooting the pic with my iPhone. With naked eyes it looks to be halfway, phone camera makes both batt and temp look a needle width higher. Look kinda like the sides of the needles are showing.



Before replacing the oil thermostat the oil pressure would have been at 2 bar mark.
This is with 15/50 Mobile 1.

 

Glad to see your car is normal after all

 

Pic?

How difficult is it to replace?

 

Another unsolved mystery.

 

It is above the oil pressure sender. First the sender must be unscrewed, then the round adapter it screws into. Easy to replace, but best done when changing oil.

 

Randy, et al:

I haven't found this hard to replace. Part 33 usually comes off with the oil pressure sender, and all the T-stat parts with it. You need an open end wrench that is relatively short so you can get it up into the confined space. Remove the oil filter first. Dropping the alternator might make this more accessible to big wrenches (maybe not - there's a lot of other things in the way), but I have not had to do that. I have a short handled open end that works there.

I have not had a problem with stripped threads with the oil T-stat. The problem with stripped threads is usually with the two oil cooler hose adapters screwed into the block immediately above the T-stat, which should only be loosened/removed during engine rebuilds. People overtorque them when (over)tightening the hoses by not counterholding the adapters, and the steel adapters crack the first few threads and the sealing face on the block. Counterholding the upper of the two adapters with the lower one in place is rather difficult. So, replacing the oil cooler hoses w/o disturbing these adapters is awfully hard with the motor in situ. This has lead to more than one nasty surprise during rebuilds. I suppose the same could happen to the block area into which part 33 screws if it is overtorqued in an attempt to stop oil drips, but I haven't seen it (yet), and I think part 33 is aluminum so less likely to strip the block.

 

In the drawing above, is the actual oil thermostat item #36?

 

We sell plenty of the springs at $3.54 each but not many of the inserts.
I am not certain the insert need replacing - what do you think Bill?

You will aslo need new seals for the oil pressure sender housing and the sender itself.