Hi Folks I have two questions about bits in my car. I was poking around trying to diagnose my intermittent fan and noticed the following items:

The first is, what the heck is this cover covering, and since it is loose I am assuming I am missing something that should be connected to the bit sticking out of it?


The second is this gunked up little box with what looks like damaged / exposed wires going in to it. I didn't want to fiddle with it too much in case I made it worse before finding out what it is. Its located on the drivers side to the right of the intake assembly and the grey wire from the top disappears under the injector rail cover.
Location:


Close up of whatever it is:


Thx in advance for the help
Ashley

 

The first pic shows the cover for the jump start post and 14 pin connector. The exposed threaded end bit is the jump start post itself. It should have a cap that screws on to keep it covered when not being used as the + connection when jump starting the car. The cap also retains the plastic cover itself. You need to get it covered so you don't accidentally ground something against it and create sparks that potentially fry something else. The connector in the other pic appears to be the front knock sensor plug and connector wiring. The sensor end plug should be retained in the small yellow bracket below/behind and to the right of the fuel pressure damper in the pic (the yellow metal part with the vacuum line connected to the top.)

Mike

 

The first is the jumpstart terminal and the post has a CONSTANT 12 V...should have a plastic cover. The second is the solenoid which powers the flappy valve in the intake that makes the intake act as two different lengths and adds power in the midrange.

 

It's the knock sensor, you can see the flappy connector below it.

 

Oh yes you are correct.....even more important to how the car runs !

 

Wow quick answers. Thanks Guys. Great to know about the jump start point, thats just gone way up on my priority list for the cover. And yup I thought that bracket looked suspiciously like it should have something in it. I will see if I can get it back in there, but need to clean it all up first and see whats under the gunk.

Again much appreciated.

Ashley

 

That does not look like a stock radiator hose to the water bridge... And it looks like it is under stress?

 

Hmm, it looks worse in the picture than it actually is but now you have pointed it out you could be right. It came to me like this but I will put this on my to do list to check. Thx for the catch.

Ashley

 

that last one is just the outer protective tubing which is cracked. It protects the twisted wires inside. they look ok. just leave it alone or wrap it with tape etc.

 

Just got a new one . The number for the part is 928-612-073-00

 

Thx Red Shark, I had just nicely ordered a new one from Pelican Parts and then I saw your post At least I know I ordered the right one.

okbarnett, its not the top bit I am concerned about, its the bottom bit that's covered in gunk. I need to clean it up and see if there is any exposed wires. I agree the top bit is not a concern. I will post when I know more.

Ashley

 

It will run with retarded timing until you get the knock sensors repaired.
It is common for the plastic ends of the knock sensors to fall apart after time, it also happens to the cam sensor plug, and if the wrong wire on the cam sensor goes to ground it will not run.

 

Hose definitley looks like its been stretched - narrower once its off the thermo cover. That would put some load on the bottom radiator outlet, which is not a good thing IMHO.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k

 

Ash--

Schedule a session with one of the locals who has a code reader for the car. Rob, Greg Brown, probably others in the area. I usually borrow one from Rob. The code reader will ID the sensors that the two controllers can't read. Candidates from your pics include the two knock sensors, possibly the Hall sensor behind the passneger side cam gear. The front knock sensior requires intake removal. I swapped the rear sensor on mine with intake in place, but it was a contortion act with small hands. My engine valley was very clean already so no isssues there, but yours seems al ittle grimy and it may not be possible to swap the rear with intake in place.

 

Dr Bob I plan a full intake refresh early next year and I have had a code reader on it and nothing is complaining and the car is running fine (other than the fan) so I am thinking I am good for now. Its just that I noticed it didn't look so good on the wiring there and wanted to know what it was.

Thx