UDT999 Hall Sensor Fault
10-04-2011, 10:48 PM
#1
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UDT999 Hall Sensor Fault
My car is running like crap so I hooked up Theo's diagnostic tool and the fault history displays code #34 Hall Signal Change fault. I am also logging EZK knock registrations of 343 knocks for 10000 revolutions average.
Obviously, there are problems here.
I have read elsewhere that if you have a defective hall sensor the car will not run. Is this true? Will a defective hall sensor cause the engine to knock?
Thanks,
Dan
Obviously, there are problems here.
I have read elsewhere that if you have a defective hall sensor the car will not run. Is this true? Will a defective hall sensor cause the engine to knock?
Thanks,
Dan
Last edited by DanielD; 10-05-2011 at 12:10 AM. Reason: More specific fault information
10-05-2011, 04:54 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
The hall sensor allows the ecu to identify which cylinder is firing and thus identify which if any are knocking . If the hall sensor is detected as non functional , the ecu will retard from 3 to 6 degrees . SO replaceing the sensor would be the most logical place to start to rectify your faults , eliminate the diagnosed faults first .
I would also check the wiring to the Hall sensor as it may have become dislodged due to some previous work .
I would also check the wiring to the Hall sensor as it may have become dislodged due to some previous work .
10-05-2011, 07:14 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
When you say "running like crap" - what does that actually mean ? A faulty Hall sensor will make the car somewhat sluggish from mid rpm/load upwards, due to the 6 deg retard that is applied.
Otherwise the car will run OK.
Has it only started to run badly since the WP/TB work ?
Otherwise the car will run OK.
Has it only started to run badly since the WP/TB work ?
10-06-2011, 03:38 AM
#6
Racer
John is right, the broken hall sensor will put the EZK is safe mode 6 degrees retarded. The high number of knocks indicate very rough running. Is the IMR relay (below the EZH ecu) not active? Check for a red or greed LED. Any LED on is wrong, so don't think green=ok.
Here's a link:
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...4/MyTip477.htm
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...4/MyTip460.htm
So you might have two problems: Hall sensor and (!) the IMR active.
regards
Theo
Here's a link:
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...4/MyTip477.htm
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...4/MyTip460.htm
So you might have two problems: Hall sensor and (!) the IMR active.
regards
Theo
10-06-2011, 10:32 PM
#7
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Crap=It's sluggish off the line and torque is low throughout the rpm band.
I did a bit of troubleshooting today and found that the connector on the hall sensor had come apart. It's brittle and apparently with me moving everything around during the TB job it broke and disconnected.
I've glued it back together and will reassemble tomorrow.
I haven't checked the led's on the IMR relay but will once I have the hall sensor hooked back up and its running again. I hope that the sensor failure/retarded timing was causing the low torque.
As for the knocking, it wasn't anything you could hear while the engine was running. The only thing that revealed it to me was the UDT999 with the knock counts. I hope that the hall sensor fix will remedy the knocks.
I did a bit of troubleshooting today and found that the connector on the hall sensor had come apart. It's brittle and apparently with me moving everything around during the TB job it broke and disconnected.
I've glued it back together and will reassemble tomorrow.
I haven't checked the led's on the IMR relay but will once I have the hall sensor hooked back up and its running again. I hope that the sensor failure/retarded timing was causing the low torque.
As for the knocking, it wasn't anything you could hear while the engine was running. The only thing that revealed it to me was the UDT999 with the knock counts. I hope that the hall sensor fix will remedy the knocks.
Last edited by DanielD; 10-06-2011 at 10:36 PM. Reason: clarification
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10-07-2011, 05:50 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
The 6deg retard with a broken Hall sensor is applied so your engine won't knock.
The apparent knocks that were recorded were not "real" - they were problably spurious noise picked up by the knock sensors input due to exposed braid on the knock sensor leads as they sdrape against the engine block..
The apparent knocks that were recorded were not "real" - they were problably spurious noise picked up by the knock sensors input due to exposed braid on the knock sensor leads as they sdrape against the engine block..
10-07-2011, 09:33 AM
#9
Team Owner
FWIW if the hall sensor connector has cracked then the knock sensors and the crank sensor wont be far behind,
all of these parts should be replaced if they are all original.
Gluing the connector back together isnt a good way to restore performance.
Is it expensive to replace these parts?
Yes it is, however putting in new parts should restore performance
all of these parts should be replaced if they are all original.
Gluing the connector back together isnt a good way to restore performance.
Is it expensive to replace these parts?
Yes it is, however putting in new parts should restore performance
10-07-2011, 10:34 AM
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Hi Mrmerlin,
I completely understand your logic and, if at work, I would do the same thing. However, I have a wife that is a CPA and she doesn't like unscheduled capital allocations. I've done a ton of spend on this car in the last few weeks. I'm beginning to see the accountant "ice sickles" locking on to the target (me).
I'll run it a while and plan for these things; but it will be a "scheduled" spend in a few months.
My goal is to get this car in perfect running order.
Of course if I have a failure then that changes the priority.
Dan
I completely understand your logic and, if at work, I would do the same thing. However, I have a wife that is a CPA and she doesn't like unscheduled capital allocations. I've done a ton of spend on this car in the last few weeks. I'm beginning to see the accountant "ice sickles" locking on to the target (me).
I'll run it a while and plan for these things; but it will be a "scheduled" spend in a few months.
My goal is to get this car in perfect running order.
Of course if I have a failure then that changes the priority.
Dan
10-07-2011, 11:23 AM
#11
Team Owner
Daniel I would submit you have already had your failure,
now is the time to fix this correctly ,
band aids will only prolong the failure sequence and you may get stranded because you didnt listen to your machine.
Adding in a towing bill to the parts cost will only add to your troubles
now is the time to fix this correctly ,
band aids will only prolong the failure sequence and you may get stranded because you didnt listen to your machine.
Adding in a towing bill to the parts cost will only add to your troubles
