sharp looking cam towers.... with one small problem....
#1
Thread Starter
sharp looking cam towers.... with one small problem....
Just got my towers back from the powder coaters... look great! but........... looks like sandblasting got in the towers and hit the front and rear cam surfaces....
how screwed am i?
how screwed am i?
#2
It's a wall decoration now.
#4
Team Owner
actually you may be OK here as this isnt where the cam runs . the cam runs on the top surface as its pushed upwards by the lifters
If you do decide to use these then you should chase every thread ,
and wash it out a few times with simple green and how water and then a blowdry with compressed air
If you do decide to use these then you should chase every thread ,
and wash it out a few times with simple green and how water and then a blowdry with compressed air
#6
For anyone that has worked on 2v cars and taken them apart with the intent to put them back together, it would seem clear that the surface you show is at the front. The front of the 2v cams don't touch that surface. The seal on the front cam-bearing and cover housing does. Hence the reason we get broken 2c cams when the snouts are flexed too much.
Jesus people- let's be careful about telling others thier **** is stuffed, huh?
The back of the tower has a similar area, and that IS touching the cam. But I don't see it as a big deal.
What about the grey ones I sent. Are these them that you redid?
Jesus people- let's be careful about telling others thier **** is stuffed, huh?
The back of the tower has a similar area, and that IS touching the cam. But I don't see it as a big deal.
What about the grey ones I sent. Are these them that you redid?
#7
I'd say ( and I don't say this lightly, and I have actually worked with 2v stuff) run it. Unless the sand blasting got at the lifter bores, then it's fine.
You have the front cam
Cover consoles that slide in there- mate them up and look at what I mean.
You have the front cam
Cover consoles that slide in there- mate them up and look at what I mean.
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#9
Thread Starter
yes, this was the pair that you had PC, then i had striped and re done. i checked the tops of the "bores" and they look clean. the bottom face and lifter bores are all good.
For anyone that has worked on 2v cars and taken them apart with the intent to put them back together, it would seem clear that the surface you show is at the front. The front of the 2v cams don't touch that surface. The seal on the front cam-bearing and cover housing does. Hence the reason we get broken 2c cams when the snouts are flexed too much.
Jesus people- let's be careful about telling others thier **** is stuffed, huh?
The back of the tower has a similar area, and that IS touching the cam. But I don't see it as a big deal.
What about the grey ones I sent. Are these them that you redid?
Jesus people- let's be careful about telling others thier **** is stuffed, huh?
The back of the tower has a similar area, and that IS touching the cam. But I don't see it as a big deal.
What about the grey ones I sent. Are these them that you redid?
#10
Team Owner
then it should be OK just follow the info for thread chasing and the parts washing,
the more time you spend washing the less chance of contamination failure..
NOTE the cam when its installed is pushed upwards to the top of the tower so the cam wont be touching the blasted area.
Since these parts can be used on either side the front cam seal support will neatly fit into the blasted area ,
and its sealed with an O ring,
the rear is sealed with a cover and cork or silicone gasket
the more time you spend washing the less chance of contamination failure..
NOTE the cam when its installed is pushed upwards to the top of the tower so the cam wont be touching the blasted area.
Since these parts can be used on either side the front cam seal support will neatly fit into the blasted area ,
and its sealed with an O ring,
the rear is sealed with a cover and cork or silicone gasket
#11
For anyone that has worked on 2v cars and taken them apart with the intent to put them back together, it would seem clear that the surface you show is at the front. The front of the 2v cams don't touch that surface. The seal on the front cam-bearing and cover housing does. Hence the reason we get broken 2c cams when the snouts are flexed too much.
Jesus people- let's be careful about telling others thier **** is stuffed, huh?
The back of the tower has a similar area, and that IS touching the cam. But I don't see it as a big deal.
What about the grey ones I sent. Are these them that you redid?
Jesus people- let's be careful about telling others thier **** is stuffed, huh?
The back of the tower has a similar area, and that IS touching the cam. But I don't see it as a big deal.
What about the grey ones I sent. Are these them that you redid?
If you'd use this in a car, that tells me a great deal about what you would re-use. He clearly states this is the case on both the front and REAR. Remind me not to buy anything you've worked on.
#12
Again - I am questioning people here on how much they have actually worked on 2V stuff. The bearing clearances on these cam towers are huge. Absolutely huge, in a relative sense to other engine technology.
To do it properly, one would want to do an align-bore on cam boxes on every 928, and surface the bottom (and the top of the 2V heads where they mate) so it actually stays sealed more than 12 months at a time. Anyone do that?
I didn't think so. **** no- most people would slap that **** back together like it was legos.
There are several ways he can reuse these pieces, but it would be his own choice and his own car. The front is unimportant, and the rear bearing surface supports very little. These pieces are all of a couple hundred dollars in bare parts - the boxes themselves that is. He could always get more. But most of them are warped.
#13
Administrator - "Tyson"
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#15
Team Owner
those surfaces look OK make sure to chase the threads of all the openings,
if you dont you will see the bolts bind up as there will be grit media in the threads
if you dont you will see the bolts bind up as there will be grit media in the threads