BC

What made you go down this rabbit hole?

The HP increases in the upper RPMS as I am sure you know would require changes to the breathing path - this is where the "hard parts" tuning of an engine and its operational envelope happen. You may have hit the 80/20 rule on tuning THIS engine with THESE pieces and THAT computer - but if you were to change anything in that system for the better, you would use your talents (strong talents I might add) even better. I think a Duel Throttle body going into two side bellows straight into the runners is a next N/A step, or you could use your tuning time on learning an ECU like the new AEM that is just out and is said to be the most advanced. Or get a turbo.

BC

Just add in some E85 to the 87 so you an go back to 0 now.

Mike Frye

I'm sure you're right here. 310+/- is not such a bad place to be though. For those of us with lightweight free revving 5-speeds 300+ at the wheels is plenty scary when you let it all out at once.

Thanks for all of your efforts though!

Avar928

(._.) ...so no black chips then?

BC

Breathing, I tell you, breathing

PorKen

Breathe deep, the gathering gloom...

I think a turbo(super)charger would work great at this -12°. If anything, I've shown the compression effects of the retard. I should do a comparison cranking compression check, but I'm feeling lazy.

I drove a friend's turbo SAAB the other day, I liked it.


No 'Black Edition' chips. ('Vaporware' they used to call it.) I'm going back to zero cam, putting the 3.6 chips and super back in, and call it a day/year.

BC

Still think you should buy an aftermarket ECU. Play around it it on a test car. How about my car and my ecu?

jbrob007

Ken, We set her up and measured - both cams were advanced 3 degrees (you were correct in your assessment of my dyno chart). We adjusted the cam timing -2 pass side / 0 on the driver side... Took it for a quick romp and the "***-o-meter" says it was a success. I dont have a dyno handy, but the trip to Altoona, PA, tomororw should tell me what I need to know Once I get her on a Dyno I'll send ya the results! Thanks for the advice and assistance.

Hilton

Yes.. in particular, this post here would be a good place to start

https://rennlist.com/forums/9579909-post13.html

928NOOBIE

Upgrading from 3.6 to 4.0 here as well. Will let everyone know the results but am sure will make a great difference.

SMTCapeCod

^^^ *FAIL* ^^^

ador117

Hello,
This thread is pretty old... I have an 88 S4. After review all this thread, I understand that the normal setting is supposed to be -2 (1-4) and 0 (5-8), cold, with an used timing belt, 0,0 for a new one.

I noticed also that the setting -6(1-4) and -4(5-8), make some owners happy. Is someone having more feedback on that setting?
Raphael

SwayBar

In my opinion only...

For a stock car, I would just go with the factory recommended settings. Sure, you can change the cam-timing, but on a stock car, there will be no appreciable difference.

Otto Mechanic

I'm pretty sure this whole thread (I haven't read it start to finish in years) is based on the S3 rather than S4 motor so you should be careful about extending any findings or recommendations.

ador117

Thank you for your feedback. Reading several threads, I understand that the recommended setting is the same for all or most 32V (S3, S4, GT). But you're right. Before changing something I will start by recommended setting and when everything will be fine, I will see if it worth adjusting something.
Raphaël