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Cylinder heads question???

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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 08:01 PM
  #46  
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If it were mine, I would pull all the lifters, take the core plugs out of the oil galleys and the check valves and use rifle brushes, brake clean (Wurth ONLY) and air to ensure that nothing got missed
There will be metal in the oil galleys with out a doubt.

Originally Posted by jeff spahn
Let me ask this question. I took my head to a shop to have them leveled or whatever you call it. They didn't do any valve work and I have looked in the head top and for good measure blasted them with a can of brake clean each (not spraying lifters). I got a few tiny shavings out but really not hardly anything.

Should I pull the lifters out and blast each with another can of brake clean? Can I damage any seals by doing this? Again, I didn't have any valve work done, just had them planed. They pulled the lifters out when they did the planing.
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:17 PM
  #47  
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Why Wurth only brake clean? It's pretty hard to come by around here. Won't Napa non chlorinated work?
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:31 PM
  #48  
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the non chlorinated stuff wont really cut all the crud ,
I dont use the Worth stuff but i do use the CRC brake cleaner in the red can,
i am happy with the results
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:46 PM
  #49  
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Core plugs are the threaded plugs on the ends of the heads that a 22mm wrench fits on? Anything special I need to know to take them off? Impact wrench, torch, chicken entrails etc?
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 10:49 PM
  #50  
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You want to remove the core plugs on the oil galley- in your pic it's in the upper left corner, half cut-off.

That big 22mm cover leads into the head's water jacket.

EDIT:

The oil galleys are the tube-lookin' things running the full length of the head.

Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:25 PM
  #51  
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Oh snap. Is that hard, drill and pull kind of thing. Just tap in the new ones like freeze plugs in a gm or ford block?
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:27 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by jeff spahn
Why Wurth only brake clean? It's pretty hard to come by around here. Won't Napa non chlorinated work?
I would use ONLY the Wurth stuff, it will not harm the valve seals or orings, and it will clean the gunk out.

Roger sells it, or if you can not get it from him I can ship it to you, you will need about a case of it, trust me you will use it for other things.

I have the recharge station to fill from bulk, and still use about a case a week of the cans.
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:27 PM
  #53  
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How would these get metal in them if a valve job wasn't done?
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:29 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Carl Fausett
Even if the shop cleans and bags them, the installer STILL must do a final cleaning and inspection just before assembly. BC's post #32 shows why.

Thank you for your post BC, those are good pics.
In the example BC posted, very shoddy work accounted for the mess. Why would you cite this as an example to justify why your rebuilt heads need cleaning before installation? The heads would require complete disassembly and rebuilding to clean this up!

How much disassembly do your finished heads require for proper cleaning before installation? Do the valves need to be disassembled so debris in the valve assembly, such as guide reaming debris, can be cleaned out? If so, you should leave the heads disassembled and ship them back in parts.
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:43 PM
  #55  
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Bill, those pictures BC posted are not my heads. They are just good examples of how even "clean" heads still need to be checked before installation, and why.
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:48 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by jeff spahn
How would these get metal in them if a valve job wasn't done?
How can it not, the oil galleys are open at the bottom of the head that you had cut.
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:52 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by jeff spahn
How would these get metal in them if a valve job wasn't done?
It's not just metal shavings from surfacing or seat cutting, it's the other crap including abrasives too.
There's grinding grit from facing valves and god knows what is in the swarf of the machine tool coolant, stuff like cast iron particles.
And if the shop is half assed enough to send out dirty assemblies in the first place, they are probably using alot of abrasive power wheels to clean gasket surfaces so you can add that abrasive dust to the list of things that are going to wind up in your engine.
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 11:59 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Carl Fausett
Bill, those pictures BC posted are not my heads. They are just good examples of how even "clean" heads still need to be checked before installation, and why.
Wow, I guess we have a different view on what clean heads are.

My machine shop would never, ever send heads like that out, they are surgically clean, shot blasted (put in a big machine with steel shot, it think it is steel shot, but any way, and tumbled while the heads are held down, pretty neat machine), then hot tanked, then put into a automatic hot water washer, dried, inspected and then put together in a clean room.

They charge for this of course, but then again they do not get sued for sending out filthy parts.
Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:21 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Carl Fausett
Bill, those pictures BC posted are not my heads. They are just good examples of how even "clean" heads still need to be checked before installation, and why.
If BC's heads are a relevant example, then you seem to be saying all rebuilt heads, even yours, must be completely torn down, checked, cleaned and reassembled by the customer.
Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:50 AM
  #60  
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Default CYLINDER HEADS

Today we decided to check the two big plugs on the heads, the inside are clean but no copper washers in both of them. They would have leak if we installed them,does any members know the torque specification for that two plug 22mm on the heads? pet no 9and 10. illustration 103-00. Thanks, the heads are fully assembled how the hell am i going to clean them after already bolted them on? Carl said they were good right out of the box with full assembly lube ready to install. We installed them and decided to replace the oil check valves and the rest are ??????? paid 810.00 plus my valve guides and valve stem seals



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