gbgastowers

I bet you probably know but I'll state it anyway. Don't put any assembly lube on the backside of the rod bearing(can cause spun rod bearing) or too much on the face(tight tolerance).

jeff spahn

I didn't know that but I do now. I'll just do what the shop manual says.

gbgastowers

I used pieces of rubber hose for this. The bolts will score the crank also without the covers. Gunar

mark kibort

why would you take the piston out from the bottom? if you have to put it in through the top, why not just push it out the top??

what am i missing here??

9x8

Sense of humor!

jeff spahn

Mark

Jerry was messing with me because I was trying to do a Dwayne style write up on changing out a piston and wasn't clear about taking out the top of the block so he and Rob turned it into a pretty good joke with the photo of the piston trying to leave the bottom of the bore.

Leon Speed

Is there a pic of the damaged piston showing the nicks and dings or did I miss it?

jeff spahn

Here it is:

Leon Speed

Thanks Jeff, I have seen that one in the other thread. I was interested to see what it looks like out of the engine.

jeff spahn

I'll post that tonight.

mark kibort

"I have a hell of a sense of humor, dont i corporal Briggs! "

jeff spahn

Here is the top of the damaged piston. Only damage is on the top.

jeff spahn

I got the piston back today and they got it within .1g. Here is the backside. They relieved the wrist pin a bit and the piston a little.

Mrmerlin

did they drill the oil relief holes as well?

jeff spahn

Yes. I posted that pic from the iPhone app with the wrist pin photo but it didn't go through. Here it is

You can see the holes and relieved areas.