Clean engine interior?
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 15,228
Likes: 2,529
From: Anaheim
I am not taking the girdle off the block. I am only taking one piston out to replace a dinged/damaged one and then putting the engine back together. New conn rod bearings on that piston as well. Just wondered about all the oil and such if I should just wipe it down or clean with something. Not going to take whole engine apart unless my conn rod bearing on the one piston shows it is super worn.
If this is the case, I'll start another thread and begin there.
If this is the case, I'll start another thread and begin there.
Hmmm.
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 18,764
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From: Irvine, CA
Actually, that block was acid dipped in the process of being Nikasiled, I spent literally 2 days cleaning it to get it to what you see, and even then Greg busted out the water and the toilet brush on the bores. Pretty sure I wouldn't do the toilet brush thing on a stock block cylinder bore, shoulda pointed that out in the previous post.
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,659
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From: Dubuque, IA
I thought you bought another block from Carl. A nikasil coated one. What are you going to do with it? Gunar
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ew-engine.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ew-engine.html
Developer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,005
Likes: 64
From: Horicon, WI
I am not taking the girdle off the block. I am only taking one piston out to replace a dinged/damaged one and then putting the engine back together. New conn rod bearings on that piston as well. Just wondered about all the oil and such if I should just wipe it down or clean with something. Not going to take whole engine apart unless my conn rod bearing on the one piston shows it is super worn.
If this is the case, I'll start another thread and begin there.
If this is the case, I'll start another thread and begin there.
Be careful cleaning gasket surfaces with a razor blade, you can carve it like basswood. Skotchbrite pads do a better job and are safer.
And because its an automatic - check the thrust bearing (the center main) for wear. Good time to replace the flex plate clamp!
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...haft_clamp.php
JK
Thread Starter
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,659
Likes: 426
From: Dubuque, IA
I'll throw this out, with the caveat that I haven't actually done this....
I think I'd start by making sure your cylinder decks are completely clean and free of old gasket. Fill each cylinder with oily rags to minimize the crap getting in them. Then if you haven't already, make sure that each head bolt hole is completely clean and dry- blow 'em out with compressed air and run many, many brakekleen-soaked shop rags on a gun barrel cleaning rod. Those threads are under huge stress and they'd better be clean. Then I'd clean out the schmutz from each cylinder again, wipe down the deck several times to make it spotless and oil-free, and install the head for that side. Repeat the process for the other head.
Are the heads going out to get decked? Hope so.
Did you/have you measured crank endplay? On a 150K+ mile motor out of an automatic (even one with as good a maintenance history as yours) I think I'd want to make sure the thrust bearing is happy before sealing everything up. And at the very least I'd replace all the rod bearings. Torque the con rod nuts well....
I think I'd start by making sure your cylinder decks are completely clean and free of old gasket. Fill each cylinder with oily rags to minimize the crap getting in them. Then if you haven't already, make sure that each head bolt hole is completely clean and dry- blow 'em out with compressed air and run many, many brakekleen-soaked shop rags on a gun barrel cleaning rod. Those threads are under huge stress and they'd better be clean. Then I'd clean out the schmutz from each cylinder again, wipe down the deck several times to make it spotless and oil-free, and install the head for that side. Repeat the process for the other head.
Are the heads going out to get decked? Hope so.
Did you/have you measured crank endplay? On a 150K+ mile motor out of an automatic (even one with as good a maintenance history as yours) I think I'd want to make sure the thrust bearing is happy before sealing everything up. And at the very least I'd replace all the rod bearings. Torque the con rod nuts well....
Checked the endplay tonight .21mm. Well within factory new specs. Happy about that.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 31,159
Likes: 4,156
From: Philly PA
FWIW if you use a fresh razor and hold it perpendicular to the surface it will be impossible to make any gouges, if you hold it at a 45 degree angle then yes you can make small imperfections in the surface.
With the razor at 90 degrees to the surface it simply cant dig in but it will neatly remove particles that are above the surface.
Use a back and forth motion on the fresh razor and change them frequently.
This works very well on removing the loctite 574 from the girdle sealing areas
FWIW the scotch brite pads will also leave behind microscopic abrasive as they fall of the pad i wouldnt be using these on the engine.
FWIW if you get the crank polished then you must clean it thoroughly this may take 4 cans of brake cleaned applied to all of the throws in the crank , a oil bore brush
then a thorough washing with simple green and hot hi pressure water.
NOTE the throws will fill up with polishing compound and if they are not removed there is high probability that the bearings will fail from this polishing compound being released when the oil is hot and forced into the journals.
With the razor at 90 degrees to the surface it simply cant dig in but it will neatly remove particles that are above the surface.
Use a back and forth motion on the fresh razor and change them frequently.
This works very well on removing the loctite 574 from the girdle sealing areas
FWIW the scotch brite pads will also leave behind microscopic abrasive as they fall of the pad i wouldnt be using these on the engine.
FWIW if you get the crank polished then you must clean it thoroughly this may take 4 cans of brake cleaned applied to all of the throws in the crank , a oil bore brush
then a thorough washing with simple green and hot hi pressure water.
NOTE the throws will fill up with polishing compound and if they are not removed there is high probability that the bearings will fail from this polishing compound being released when the oil is hot and forced into the journals.
Developer
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,005
Likes: 64
From: Horicon, WI
You might find this article useful:
Follow this link: http://www.928motorsports.com/install.php
and download "Engine Preassembly" from the Engine Products section of that page.
Follow this link: http://www.928motorsports.com/install.php
and download "Engine Preassembly" from the Engine Products section of that page.
