UKKid35

All suggestions welcome - thanks

SeanR

Take off car, install new or used line.

UKKid35

Isn't it routed under the crossmember?

WallyP

Two repair methods:
- Replace the entire metal line.
- Cut the rusty part out, splice in a new section.

If that bit is rusty, you might have problems getting to a good section on both sides. You must do a proper splice, using good-quality fittings. You must either empty the tank, or you must be able to squeeze shut the rubber section at the pump so as to prevent any fuel from leaking after you cut the line. You WILL have some fuel spillage from the cut line in any case, so take all precautions to prevent fire and explosion, as well as avoiding fuel in your eyes.

Replacing the line is the best way, but it is a royal PITA.

Cutting out a section and splicing with a rubber section is a common, but not really good, repair.

Brett928S2

Hi

Do what I had done when the down pipe from the tank rusted and leaked...

I had it replaced by the new white nylon type pipe used in the 996/997s.. it joins to yours with a brass compression fitting.... Brilliant stuff...

All the best Brett

brianrheffron

Adding to Bretts reply.

Links to Nylon 12 pipe suitable for fuel lines,
same spec as used in all modren cars.
http://www.airlines-pneumatics.co.uk...ctCode=S080002

Link to suitable connections.
http://www.norgren.com/n/rail/chassisapps/fittings.html

oaros

my return line to the fuel tank is a bit crushed.
Is the Nylon pipe suitable for 'hand-bending' and snaking round the the rear member up to the tank?

Thanks

SeanR

Agree with Wally (as usual). I'd defiantly not use a rubber hose to fix it, any number of road debris can hit it and cause a leak, and we know what that will do.

I'm intrigued by what Brett has to say though, I've not seen this yet.

Brett928S2

Hi

Yes its perfect for that...

You can manually flex it ...sort of like a strong rubber pipe but better....


All the best Brett

Brett928S2

Hi SEAN

Its used on all the later Porsches up to and including the Panamera I am told.... I am suprised Roger doesnt sell it with the brass compression fittings...

As an example of its use, as its flexible you can replace the tank metal pipes WITHOUT dropping the rear axle/box ....

I would use absolutely nothing else to replace ANY of my metal fuel lines if needed....

All the best Brett

oaros

thanks Brett
Oliver

jpitman2

Is the leak at that site, or is it coming down the pipe from a fitting above, and just pooling at the low point? I would check back up the line to the right for signs of leakage.
I ran a new pressure pipe on mine when it got damaged, and I could not manage to lace the pipe through the correct routing in one piece , so in the end I cut it near the bend up the firewall, and joined it with a compression fitting - no issues at all in several years now.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

UKKid35

Many thanks - that is definitely the info I needed.

UKKid35

I was assuming that the section I would be working on was well above the fuel level of a nearly empty tank, so I wasn't going to bother draining it.

WallyP

Perhaps. It isn't too difficult to empty the tank - pull the acorn nut on the fuel rail, then jumper the pump relay and pump the fuel into a container.

Do remember that the line is full of fuel, so there will be several ounces of leakage if you don't disconnect both ends and blow it out. Just be prepared to catch it...