Fiberglass, or something else, for repairs of splash guards, etc?
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Hi folks,
Just wondering what tips you might be able to share for repairs of some cracked body parts. For instance, the splash guards inside the front fenders on my car are cracked around the mounting holes, and the front spoiler is a bit torn. Would fiberglass be a good solution to repair such damage (from the back)? Or is there something else I should try, like high-temp contact cement and sheet metal?
Thanks,
Paul
Just wondering what tips you might be able to share for repairs of some cracked body parts. For instance, the splash guards inside the front fenders on my car are cracked around the mounting holes, and the front spoiler is a bit torn. Would fiberglass be a good solution to repair such damage (from the back)? Or is there something else I should try, like high-temp contact cement and sheet metal?
Thanks,
Paul
#2
Been selling Twinkies on Ebay,
have some extra cash right now.
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have some extra cash right now.
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I laminated my splash shields with fiberglass on both sides, and threw an extra layer around the bolt holes. I used polyester resin + cloth from Lowes or H. Depot. Roughed them up with steel wool, soap and water first. Then I trimmed the semi-cured material w/ a utility knife. For the seal I used 5/8" cylindrical closed cell grey-colored foam, also from Lowes (it comes in a about 10' lengths, by the weatherstripping section). I used 1 piece stuffed down the groove, then another on top of it half sticking out. I quickly brushed some resin on them after being pressed in the groove to hold them there. After cure painted them with some black undercoat spray stuff I had laying around. The polyester doesn't really stick to the plastic (I bet it's ABS) but the bolts help hold it all together. Problem solved.
#3
Chronic Tool Dropper
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I've replaced mine a couple times now. Replacement pieces are available and weren't outrageous last time I bought them from 928 Int'l.
#4
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For the rear liners, I reinforced with fiberglass on the back only, then used body seam sealer (Fusor 800EZ) to cover only the cracked areas on the visible side. It spreads on with a Bondo squeegee smoothly and no sanding required if you get it right. Then a coat of Krylon Fusion to finish the job. Not the prettiest solution, but workable until Jerry Feather gets his liner production line going.
The front wheel well guards (i.e. the separate pieces fwd of the tires that connect to the front spoiler) are only about $40 a piece (at least for 87 and up models).
The front wheel well guards (i.e. the separate pieces fwd of the tires that connect to the front spoiler) are only about $40 a piece (at least for 87 and up models).
Last edited by GeorgeM; 07-19-2011 at 04:45 PM.
#5
Drifting
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I used JB weld on the back side with some metal tie strap.
Mainly because I had both on hand. That was 4 years ago and it’s still holding.
JB weld might not be as strong but it is easier to trim and shape with a dremel.
Mainly because I had both on hand. That was 4 years ago and it’s still holding.
JB weld might not be as strong but it is easier to trim and shape with a dremel.
#6
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I would think that those guys who do plastic bumper repairs could fix the liners for you. Check the yellow pages or ask a body shop in your town who does that type of work.
I torn up my front spoiler and had it put back together at a bumper repair shop, better than new.
Joe
I torn up my front spoiler and had it put back together at a bumper repair shop, better than new.
Joe
#7
Three Wheelin'
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You can buy an all purpose plastic welding rod from Ureathane Supply Company. The rod has some fibers in it and will stick to all the plastic on the 928 - you can use it on the arm rests, the splash panels and the bumpers. You only need a good soldering iron to apply it. It is sand able. Available also is some flexible filler that can make the job look perfect and some SEM black vinyl paint if you want perfection. Done well the repair can be undectable.
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That plastic welder on Amazon looks like a winner, checked the reviews and they had good things to say about it. I didnt know such a thing existed.
#12
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Unless you are adept at fibreglassing things, just buy new ones, they are not that dear. Also, move the alternator hose mounting off the LHS shield as in
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...placement.html
Makes R&R much easier.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...placement.html
Makes R&R much easier.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
#13
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I have a plastic welder and have not had much luck using it. it is very difficult to get the plastic you are welding and the rod the same temperature so that it flows in any meaningful way.
The nice thing about the flex rod is the use of a standard soldering iron. It flows and bonds well. A soldering iron with a big tip is under $20. I have welded a lot of pods with this set up. The rods are only about a dollar a piece and the weld goes fast.
The nice thing about the flex rod is the use of a standard soldering iron. It flows and bonds well. A soldering iron with a big tip is under $20. I have welded a lot of pods with this set up. The rods are only about a dollar a piece and the weld goes fast.
#14
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Harbor freight has three welding set ups
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...sult?q=plastic
I have tried thier plastic rod with no success. The $15 unit is the best bet.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...sult?q=plastic
I have tried thier plastic rod with no success. The $15 unit is the best bet.
#15
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i just used some of the plastic that's used for your wheelchair to roll on for my rear splash guard, it's relatively cheap and can be cut with a exacto-knife or a angle-grinder or similiar and it can be shaped with a hair dryer or other gas/hot air torches