918-S

A couple things, I searched but must not have used the key words to get what I need.

I want to test the WUR on my Hybrid 5.0. Does anyone have a source for the correct fitting to connect a fuel pressure gauge to the WUR?

and If I can't locate a fitting I have a spare set of banjo bolts from another WUR. I could easily make a fitting but I need to know which banjo bolt is the correct one for the fuel gauge connection. The larger one or the smaller one?

TIA

danglerb

Fittings are what a set of CIS test guages are all about, good kits comes with a couple dozen adapters. Gathering them up one at a time seems like a time consuming exercise.

918-S

That was helpful. LOL I just need the one for the WUR

918-S

Ok, let me try this from another angle. Which fitting on the WUR do you connect the gauge to?

jpitman2

You splice the gauge unit into The inlet line from the FD, on mine its on the LHS looking into the engine bay. I think its M12x1.5? Relatively coarse compared to the threads into iron body. Dont quote me though.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

karl ruiter

Yes, the inlet side, which on my Euro S motor is the left side as you face the motor from the front of the car. Also the side where the line comes straight in, not at 90 degrees. Actually you will need two fittings, one to adapt back into the hard line and one to adapt to the WUR. The one on the WUR involves an O ring that does not hold up well and it hard to get a good seal there. If you have everything but the fittings let me know. I should have spares as I had a guage die on me and had to buy a send set. Finding them might be another thing.

918-S

Thanks guys! I'm on the road this week but I'll look at it when I get grounded.

Any photos or links to write ups for testing the WUR?

All I have been able to find are articles on what each piece does. I found several articles on testing and repairing the AAR but not the WUR.

Erik N

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...-got-pics.html

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...warmup_reg.htm

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...the-wur-2.html

karl ruiter

I usually go by the process in the WSM.

jpitman2

Basics are pretty easy -
system 65-75psi
cold control (<15C) ~20psi
Hot control 40-45psi - engine fully warmed through.
Holding pressure after turn off is really only a hot restart issue.
Not sure if yours being a bit bigger displacement will require any variation to these - probably system at the top of the range would be good. You would need to check with a co meter that mixture is staying in the healthy range.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

918-S

I haven't tampered with my WUR yet but I had one a guy gave me off a Volvo Turbo. I took it apart to see what it looked like inside then noticed the bolt that held the heating element comes up from the bottom (inside the cover) The cover has a sleeve built in to it. Here is a photo of the sleeve from the top and bottom. This sleeve did not have anything covering the the threads from the top side. Here are a couple photos of the cover, heater and sleeve.

918-S

I was thinking of simply changing the cover on my WUR with this Volvo cover. I wouldn't have to drill and tap anything.

jpitman2

Those differences look too neat to be a field mod, to me. My heater/bimetallic strip stuff all looks the same as that, but the bolt part is a press fit in the top casting, not threaded. The inner end on mine is thread, with a nut holding the heated bits on it.
With this arrangement, to change the settings for cold you would need to open the unit, turn the bolt while holding the strip in line. You can see the suffix on this is 125, so we should be able to lookup what thats built for, but dont know how to find its pressure settings....doesnt show up in my bosch list

jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

918-S

I agree this is a very nice cover. I think I'm going to try to swap the cover. I could just use a similar threaded bolt and nut to raise the sleeve like Erik N's photo without drilling and tapping.

918-S

Well it was too tempting. I decided to swap covers.

I took a measurement of the plunger thing on the inside of the upper cover. The 928 version of the plunger has a stud and nut to secure the heater. The Volvo version has a hollow sleeve with a bolt. The Volvo heater has some kind of extra point set connected to the heater.

Both seat area's where the heater mounts actually measured the same. I just dug out a short bolt to attach the 928 heater to the Volvo cover. After reassembly I checked that both vaccum ports held vaccum. Now once I attach a gauge to the WUR and need to adjust it I can just install a bolt like Erik did.

Cross your fingers for me. Here are some more photos for those who have always been curious.