James Bailey

I thought the goal was to get it running as it should......now let's mix in some unknown parts..."The Volvo heater has some kind of extra point set connected to the heater. "
from an entirely different application and see if maybe that works ....You are your own worst enemy ! We KNOW that a stock Euro S can run GREAT.

918-S

Oh no Jim, I was just showing the difference. I only used the Volvo cover because it has the mod done to the plunger from the factory. Faced with the possibility of doing some crude drilling to the plunger vs the factory pre-drilled plunger I opted for the Volvo cover.

I used all the 928 parts inside. Be nice now.. I'm just think I may have stumbled onto an option for the 928 guys looking to adjust their WUR without drilling.

James Bailey

O K sorry for my misunderstanding. I just really would like to see that car running right !

918-S

You and me both. Really it always starts right up and it is very drivable it's just the fuel mileage is all over the map and it smells rich most of the time. At least if i have to adjust the plunger I have a method to do it now.

918-S

Just an up date. I borrowed a CIS gauge from a Volvo mechanic friend. I couldn't pay him to work on my car but he was happy to loan me his gauge.

I purchased a Bosch CIS book and spent the last couple days reading through it.

Here's what I discovered:

The first photo is the system pressure which is good.

The 2nd photo is the cold pressure reading for the WUR. Remember I changed /swapped covers with the Volvo turbo WUR to get the adjustable plunger. I had .5 bar. Not so good.

I was able to adjust the plunger in photo 3rd to get the WUR cold set to approx 1.5 bar

The 4th photo is the warm pressure. The bosch book says it should take about 1-2 minutes to get to 3.4 to 3.8 bar. I was only able to get about 3.1 here but I may have a leaking injector or two. So I'm not ready to throw out the WUR yet.

danglerb

As I recall a critical part is a T fitting with a ball valve, you sure that is a CIS test gauge?

918-S

Here it is.

gbgastowers

looks right to me

jpitman2

Left most lead should go to the line from FD towards the WUR, rightmost into the WUR. Close the tap to see system, open to see control.
3.1bar hot control should be fine. Watson gives hot control as 41-46 psi, and you are right in the middle. All the other necessary adjustment might now be at the mixture screw in front of the air cleaner body, but its SENSITIVE!
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

918-S

I was loosing system pressure too fast after shutting the pump off. It would drop pretty fast to 2.5 bar about 35 ish lbs. I'm suspect I have either a leaking cold start or other injector. So I still have to look at those.

I cranked up the idle air screw to raise the idle and started leaning out the dizzy. I think I backed the adjustment out about 2/3 of a turn. That's alot!

I wiped the soot out of my collector tail pipe and painted it with Radnor galvanizing weld through primer. It's silver in color so it will show the blacking of the exhaust pretty quickly if I'm still running rich.

James Bailey

Do you have a fuel pressure accumulator plumbed into the system and check valve at the fuel pump ???

918-S

I have an accumulator. I'm not sure about the check valve at the pump. It's a Volvo Turbo pump and accumulator. It's buried under my tank. I could probably connect my pressure gauge directly to the pump line and see what happens.

James Bailey

It would be good to know that it accumulates and holds pressure or hot restarts might be very hard at times. You might also confirm the pressures and volume of that pump since it is for a very different application. You do have a return line as well for the excess fuel...