Checking for timing jump
Captain Obvious
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From: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Evne if only one bank of valves are bent, might as well pull the other head to and put a new head gasket in there. It's not that much more work to pull the other head.
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From: Philly PA
turn it in what ever direction is shortest to ge the crank to the 45deg line.
NOTE at this point the cams dont really matter as they can be turned in either direction once the belt is off. once the crank is at 45 deg the cams can be turned full rotations.
NOTE the 45 degree mark on the cams will be about 3 teeth before the hash marks would line up with the cam housing
NOTE at this point the cams dont really matter as they can be turned in either direction once the belt is off. once the crank is at 45 deg the cams can be turned full rotations.
NOTE the 45 degree mark on the cams will be about 3 teeth before the hash marks would line up with the cam housing
Under the Lift
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From: Buckeye, AZ
Go ahead with the teardown at 45 degrees. Back up to 45 BTDC- as little turning as possible, like Stan said.
You might have escaped unharmed. 7 cam teeth is not certain death. We lucked out on Jon's car when the WP seized and stripped a pile of belt teeth. BUT the way it is running/not running sounds like more than just timing way off.
If everything goes back togther (e.g., the cam is not snapped), we can do a leakdown (do I need to bring my compressor?) or a compression test. Actually a compression test is quicker and simpler and will tell us what we need to know.
You might have escaped unharmed. 7 cam teeth is not certain death. We lucked out on Jon's car when the WP seized and stripped a pile of belt teeth. BUT the way it is running/not running sounds like more than just timing way off.
If everything goes back togther (e.g., the cam is not snapped), we can do a leakdown (do I need to bring my compressor?) or a compression test. Actually a compression test is quicker and simpler and will tell us what we need to know.
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From: ɹəpun uʍop 'ʎəupʎs
Belt warning is inop until 3 mins after startup - so if something broke when you started it, you have no idea until the bad sounds.
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From: Patterson, Ca
OK Bill. I have several air compressors and a good compression gauge so we're fine there.
Good point Hilton. I never had it running for three minutes once it began to run funny.
Good point Hilton. I never had it running for three minutes once it began to run funny.
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From: Patterson, Ca
Who can tell me what this three hole female plug is? It comes from under the intake, joins the front loom with the belt warning wire and was laying down near the top of the air pump.
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From: Patterson, Ca
I found this on Pirtles' site. This looks like the connector, down below the rotor, but I can't find the male end. I guess he's labeling it as a right fuel rail connection.
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Under the Lift
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From: Buckeye, AZ
That's the Hall sensor plug. The knock sensors and Hall are 3-wire, with the 3rd wire being the shielding. The sensor side of the connector fractures and the plug comes off and you lose 6 degrees of advance at higher RPM. More fun for Wednesday.
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From: Patterson, Ca
Chronic Tool Dropper
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From: Bend, Oregon
Charley--
What's left of the connector looks fine. The missing part is still inside the part you have on the end of the harness. A small dentist's probe can be used to break up and extract the remnants stuck inside.
The Hall sensor lower bolt can be a real chore to get out. I used a long Allen driver on a couple extensions so the ratchet handle is back of the shock tower, makes it real easy vs the tight space and a conventional Allen key and arthritic fingers.. Put some stickum on the end of the driver so it hangs on to the little bolt, else it will wander off into the nether regions by the AC compressor and suspension/crossmember.
The replacement sensor (944 part) comes with a cable stub that's just a hair too short to go back in the bracket like the original. Loosen the cable clamp on the new one and you can get a little bit of extra wire length to play with to get the connector seated in the bracket again.
What's left of the connector looks fine. The missing part is still inside the part you have on the end of the harness. A small dentist's probe can be used to break up and extract the remnants stuck inside.
The Hall sensor lower bolt can be a real chore to get out. I used a long Allen driver on a couple extensions so the ratchet handle is back of the shock tower, makes it real easy vs the tight space and a conventional Allen key and arthritic fingers.. Put some stickum on the end of the driver so it hangs on to the little bolt, else it will wander off into the nether regions by the AC compressor and suspension/crossmember.
The replacement sensor (944 part) comes with a cable stub that's just a hair too short to go back in the bracket like the original. Loosen the cable clamp on the new one and you can get a little bit of extra wire length to play with to get the connector seated in the bracket again.
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From: Patterson, Ca
Do you have the 944 part number?
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From: Stockton, CA
great news.....I know when Sharky had a dead hall sender it was VERY noticeable in the "butt-o-meter"...huge really.....my cheapo dyno recorded it as 50whp....the GTS will really wake up with the extra 6' of timing....that plus the TB repair is gonna give you a completely NEW ride..... Congrats!!!!