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Checking for timing jump

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Old 06-29-2011, 06:45 PM
  #76  
Mrmerlin
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that wear mark is from the belt being loose I was really hoping that you could find something. At this point I would strongly suggest to replace the water pump with a new Laso.
even though you have what seems to be a good pump if its been rebuilt then its suspect for the bearing migrating in the bore.
Period.
I have had to replace more than few rebuilds even though the bearing turned smooth and the precipitating factor was a belt warning with no other obvious indications on how the belt got loose.
In the long run, this step will save you lots of time from redoing this job. I promise!
Old 06-29-2011, 07:08 PM
  #77  
Charley B
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
........................At this point I would strongly suggest to replace the water pump with a new Laso...........................................
New LASO ordered. $285
Old 06-29-2011, 07:43 PM
  #78  
IcemanG17
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Originally Posted by Charley B
New LASO ordered. $285
Bill and I put one of these on the Estate....just be sure to ream out to two locating pin holes as they are a bit too tight......a bit of work with a round file is all it takes
Old 06-29-2011, 07:54 PM
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Charley B
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Originally Posted by IcemanG17
Bill and I put one of these on the Estate....just be sure to ream out to two locating pin holes as they are a bit too tight......a bit of work with a round file is all it takes
thanx Brian.
Old 08-11-2011, 11:01 PM
  #80  
Charley B
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Default Can anyone tell me where this elct. connection goes?

Passenger side above air pump.
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:11 PM
  #81  
dr bob
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Looks like it might be the AC clutch wire, passed up to the air pump instead of forward to mate with the FOE harness where it passes behind the oil dipstick tube. Just a guess...
Old 08-11-2011, 11:34 PM
  #82  
Charley B
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Originally Posted by dr bob
Looks like it might be the AC clutch wire, passed up to the air pump instead of forward to mate with the FOE harness where it passes behind the oil dipstick tube. Just a guess...
Right on the money. Thanx
Old 08-12-2011, 01:27 AM
  #83  
Charley B
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
NOTE the 45 degree mark on the cams will be about 3 teeth before the hash marks would line up with the cam housing
Having not marked my cam gears for 45 degrees, it was already out of time, can I just count forward 3 teeth on each cam gear and install the belt and then rotate the crank to TDC for setting an accurate timing?

Last edited by Charley B; 08-12-2011 at 08:41 PM.
Old 08-12-2011, 06:59 PM
  #84  
Charley B
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Default What have I done wrong?

The cam sprocket dog on the passenger side (pic #2) is touching the backing plate. the dog on the drivers side (pic #1) has about a 1/4 inch clearance. Neither side seems to have any kind of spacer between cam and dog.
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Old 08-12-2011, 07:09 PM
  #85  
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put the bolt in the cam and try to pull it forward the cam has an internal shoulder,

the cam may have been pushed rearwards enough to let the spider shoulder move rearwards,

as and aside try installing the cam pulley and snug the bolt see if this will pull the cam towards the front,
dont forget the Hall sensor plate
Old 08-12-2011, 07:24 PM
  #86  
Charley B
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
put the bolt in the cam and try to pull it forward the cam has an internal shoulder,

the cam may have been pushed rearwards enough to let the spider shoulder move rearwards,

as and aside try installing the cam pulley and snug the bolt see if this will pull the cam towards the front,
dont forget the Hall sensor plate
Even putting some foward pressure on the washer and bolt doesn't move the cam.

I don't think installing the plate, gear and bolt would put any foward pressure on the cam. Even mounting the rotor would only snug it toward the spyder, not away from the backing plate. Right?
Old 08-12-2011, 08:02 PM
  #87  
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if the cam wont pull forward then please follow my instructions for fitting the cam pulley to the cam,
the cam should slide forward with the bolt acting as a puller,
dont force anything

NOTE the spider will contact the front cam spacer then it should compress and the cam will slide forward to its shoulder on the inside of the cam cap
Old 08-12-2011, 08:25 PM
  #88  
Charley B
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Default Thanks Stan

With the plate, gear and shoulder washer in place, I torqued it down to 47 ft lbs.. It looks like I have a sliver of space now. Nothing compared to the 1/4 inch on the left side but hopefully sufficient.
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Old 08-12-2011, 08:42 PM
  #89  
Charley B
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Stan, would you care to comment on post #83?
Old 08-12-2011, 10:21 PM
  #90  
Mrmerlin
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OOPs sorry i missed that Charlie
answer is yes for a baseline count 3 teeth in front of the cam TDC marks
( this should equate to 45deg BTDC for the cams)
and then position the belt, then add some tension to the belt then turn to TDC and check for alignment, if its not correct you wount be off more than 2 teeth either way.

The right cam pulley looks correct now,
there isnt much room behind the spider on the rt cam,
the left cam will have a bit more


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