Seafoaming the car-safe with Alusil block and engine internals?
#16
Rennlist Member
The RX7 is a different breed, we both know that.
I have made a ton of money with plugs and ATF on RX7's that have not been used for a week or two.
I am just not a fan of any thing that breaks loose crud that is built up in a motor, some things, like EX wives and engine crud are best left where they are.
I have made a ton of money with plugs and ATF on RX7's that have not been used for a week or two.
I am just not a fan of any thing that breaks loose crud that is built up in a motor, some things, like EX wives and engine crud are best left where they are.
"from leaving seafoam in for a couple days"
..not a seafoam problem.
A USER problem, indeed. I cant hold seafoam OR the mine that produced the metal that made the can the seafoam was in, responsible for an idiot user.
..Which is where this thread left the reality tracks. Dont use it..fine, but..using it doesnt do anything harmful when used as directed..AS directed..AS directed.
(a play on the crappy head-on commercials that repeat over and over..if youve seen it)
#17
Rennlist Member
Last year a coworker added seafoam to his wifes Tahoe on the advice of a quick lube tech (ticking lifter), within two days the oil pressure gauge is low and the engine is knocking at idle. He changed the oil and filter and the oil pressure was back up and knock gone. He brought the filter in and we cut it open, the pleats were clogged with pasty sludge.
A couple months ago a neighbor asked me to look at an older toyota he bought for his teenagers to drive, the engine had a real bad rod knock. Found out he had added two bottles to the oil and drove a week or so to flush it out. We drained the oil, and cut opened the filter it was packed with sludge and aluminum.
That's enough real world personal info for me not to repeat others mistakes.
A couple months ago a neighbor asked me to look at an older toyota he bought for his teenagers to drive, the engine had a real bad rod knock. Found out he had added two bottles to the oil and drove a week or so to flush it out. We drained the oil, and cut opened the filter it was packed with sludge and aluminum.
That's enough real world personal info for me not to repeat others mistakes.
A 5qt system should have what, about 1/2 a can in there? He used...4x too much?
Love ya..not trying to be a pain, but..although I dont use it either in my cars that dont -neeeeed- it, I still cant fault a product used incorrectly..or perhaps in a motor already done for...either of which, we dont know, and can only spectulate.
Somewhere..on the internet, is some **** that used BG cleaner incorrectly..and has a fried AFM, or other pile of newly disassociated aluminum parts on his hands. Is BG a ****ty product too?
#18
Under the Lift
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Last year a coworker added seafoam to his wifes Tahoe on the advice of a quick lube tech (ticking lifter), within two days the oil pressure gauge is low and the engine is knocking at idle. He changed the oil and filter and the oil pressure was back up and knock gone. He brought the filter in and we cut it open, the pleats were clogged with pasty sludge.
A couple months ago a neighbor asked me to look at an older toyota he bought for his teenagers to drive, the engine had a real bad rod knock. Found out he had added two bottles to the oil and drove a week or so to flush it out. We drained the oil, and cut opened the filter it was packed with sludge and aluminum.
That's enough real world personal info for me not to repeat others mistakes.
A couple months ago a neighbor asked me to look at an older toyota he bought for his teenagers to drive, the engine had a real bad rod knock. Found out he had added two bottles to the oil and drove a week or so to flush it out. We drained the oil, and cut opened the filter it was packed with sludge and aluminum.
That's enough real world personal info for me not to repeat others mistakes.
#19
I haven't a clue of the condition of either engine before the seafoam was added but, one is in the salvage yard now. Was it used correctly? Nope. Does average joe read instructions? Nope. Is it worth the risk, Nope. Am I done debating it, Yup.
#20
Race Director
Yeah, I wonder where all that crud in the filter came from. Seafoam is a pertroelum solvent, mostly a light machine oil (pale oil) and naptha. Shadetree mechanics would add some ATF, which has high detergent properties, and run the engine for a few minutes before an oil change to dissolve sludge. Seafoam won't harm anything, but I would rather just begin a program of regular oil changes with a good synthetic if you think the engine service might have been ignored. The engine internals will be clean as whistle in a couple of changes.
#21
Race Director
bottom line is if there is lots of "sludge" inside the engine clearly a PO didn't change the oil properly and or used crap oil....any oil will turn to sludge in time.....
#22
Rennlist Member
Gotta agree with Bill...... In both of my "used" engines of unknown history, I would take some cheap "detergent" 10-40 dino oil and run for a little bit...idling, warm up & maybe a couple dyno runs at most.....then when its time for real racing I would install real oil.....amsoil racing 15-50 in my case..... 49 racing hours later and counting on my last $300 used engine..... However I did open that engine and inspect the bearings....which were perfect....
*heh*
At one end of the lack of critical thinking stick, we have "seafoam kills engines" even when you use it in semi-truck portions.
The other end "Amsoil prevents failure by soaking in molecular sized particles of unobtanioxylbenzine into the metallic grains through the nature of the specific polarization and semi-nucleotidic state of the kirbortian polymetricides used in our race formulas".**
Well, we can have fun with both.
---
**: Amsoil was not tested on rabbits, and is dolphin and llama free.
Ice: No work at track on 19th/Sunday? Just confirming.
#23
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
As i have said... I do not plan on keeping any of it in the lubrication system at all. For getting rid of carbon buildup on the valves themselves and the cylinder walls it is recommended to slowly pour it through a large vaccuum line with a funnel and control the flow so that the motor does not die, then... well, it's easier to just watch this video, this guy is doing it "properly". Although he's using the PCV hose, same concept.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X832d4MtYUc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X832d4MtYUc
#24
Rennlist Member
Ya..done that, been there.
But..IMHO, there are better products and better delivery methods...just cost a little more.
BG cleaner, IMHO.
Theres a long thread or 2 on this..somewhere...*runs off to look*
But ya..thatll suck in, smoke out, soak in, and clean out a lot of what probably ISNT wrong with your car...may puddle a lot in the intake too...unknown, simply because of the unique intake of the 928 and the heavy wet delivery method.
But..IMHO, there are better products and better delivery methods...just cost a little more.
BG cleaner, IMHO.
Theres a long thread or 2 on this..somewhere...*runs off to look*
But ya..thatll suck in, smoke out, soak in, and clean out a lot of what probably ISNT wrong with your car...may puddle a lot in the intake too...unknown, simply because of the unique intake of the 928 and the heavy wet delivery method.
#25
Rest in Peace
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Tell us about that BG stuff.
Ya..done that, been there.
But..IMHO, there are better products and better delivery methods...just cost a little more.
BG cleaner, IMHO.
Theres a long thread or 2 on this..somewhere...*runs off to look*
But ya..thatll suck in, smoke out, soak in, and clean out a lot of what probably ISNT wrong with your car...may puddle a lot in the intake too...unknown, simply because of the unique intake of the 928 and the heavy wet delivery method.
But..IMHO, there are better products and better delivery methods...just cost a little more.
BG cleaner, IMHO.
Theres a long thread or 2 on this..somewhere...*runs off to look*
But ya..thatll suck in, smoke out, soak in, and clean out a lot of what probably ISNT wrong with your car...may puddle a lot in the intake too...unknown, simply because of the unique intake of the 928 and the heavy wet delivery method.
#26
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Ah i see, i never really thought about the intake manifold's design. Everyone that sees the engine is always like "woa! what kind of manifold is that??!!" I suppose i may try this before the next oil change.
Nothing's "wrong" with my engine, i just figured this would be good measure to get crap out of a 24 year old engine that may never have been opened up.
Nothing's "wrong" with my engine, i just figured this would be good measure to get crap out of a 24 year old engine that may never have been opened up.
#27
Rennlist Member
Ah i see, i never really thought about the intake manifold's design. Everyone that sees the engine is always like "woa! what kind of manifold is that??!!" I suppose i may try this before the next oil change.
Nothing's "wrong" with my engine, i just figured this would be good measure to get crap out of a 24 year old engine that may never have been opened up.
Nothing's "wrong" with my engine, i just figured this would be good measure to get crap out of a 24 year old engine that may never have been opened up.
Fixed.
Mine sat for 12yrs, and the more I drive it, the less it leaks.
#28
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My personal experience with sea foam is limitted But I have used it .I Installed a junkyard motor in my race car dumped in about 10 or 11 quarts of the highest detergent cheapest 10-30 motor oil Napa had on the shelf and mixed in the correct amt of sea foam as per the directions. Ran the motor up to temp checked for leaks then ran it for about an hour on the dyno. Dumped the oil c/w sea foam and installed Amsoil have about 30 Hrs on track on that engine with no signs of faliure. Last oil change and filter opening showed no signs of wear.
That's all I got.
Sean
That's all I got.
Sean
#30
Under the Lift
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Funny thing how cars smoke when you put oil in the intake.
As i have said... I do not plan on keeping any of it in the lubrication system at all. For getting rid of carbon buildup on the valves themselves and the cylinder walls it is recommended to slowly pour it through a large vaccuum line with a funnel and control the flow so that the motor does not die, then... well, it's easier to just watch this video, this guy is doing it "properly". Although he's using the PCV hose, same concept.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X832d4MtYUc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X832d4MtYUc