Speedtoys

Ya..may not be the best, but, its what I -have-.

So...

I was planning to use 12v from the dome light, and mount this in some manner..at/around the lip of the headliner up there as well.

So, what are my options?

Thanks!

dr bob

Jeff--

Run a dedicated power cable to the head unit, one that goe off when key is off, so it doesn't trash the battery. You'll be routing the remote display cable to the pod anyway.

Speedtoys

Very true..good point.

hacker-pschorr

I never understood the remote display, especially in a small car.

I'm going to see the lights out of the corner of my eye by the rear-view mirror more than on top of or in the pod.

finally!

I agreee with the remote display except for those (like I have) which the remote display is mounted in the rear view mirror itself.

Nicole

Mine is mounted on the windshield, below the rear view mirror and the FastTrak device. A hidden wire was run along the top of the winshield, down the passenger side A-Pillar, into the fuse box. It is totally separate from any other of the car's electrics.

I would not risk putting any more load on the instrument cluster circuit that also runs the dome light. Blowing its fuse is not that much fun.




The V1 is becoming increasingly useless in the Bay Area, as Police now uses LIDAR whenever possible. Once the V1 picks-up a LIDAR signal, they already have your speed - at least most of the time. The V1 cannot give you much protection from this; you'll have to fight the ticket in court later.

I'm thinking it's time for a Laser Jammer... too bad those are not mobile like the V1.

JWise

Like Nicole, I hooked mine up by dangling the cord out the front of the headliner. I ran the rest through the headliner and down the A-pillar, behind the edge of the dash, and out to the CE panel. There, I tapped into fuse #43 with a piggyback add-a-fuse. Except for the short section dangling from the headliner, it's invisible.

andy-gts

is the fuse 43 ignition triggered like recommended above?


andy

JWise

IIRC, it's the one for the factory phone option and it's a switched fuse. Let me go check...

EDIT: Yes, it's switched. Key on - detector on, key off - detector off. Here's the kit I used: http://www.radarbusters.com/radar-de...ircuitmini.cfm

atb

I have a remote display mounted in the pod inbetween the Speedo and tach. I didn't find looking up by the rearview to be convenient. I drew power off the fuse that powers the mobile phone option since it isn't in use.

RKD in OKC

I think the idea of the remote display is that other drivers don't see your blinky lights and start playing follow the leader.

Speedtoys

I remember having a little black box, with a red button I bought from a buddy...

Hit the button, and cheaper detectors would go off.


Was always in my car back in the day...you could screw with these people for many many miles.


Great fun.

Nicole

That works on the 1988 and earlier cars. However, if you have an 89 or later with the digital display, you would cover most of the display.

The only elegant solution that I remember for later cars is Alan's special remote display housing.

LOL! Thats just mean...

928mac

I guess I am lucky that I live in a province where it is still legal to use them.
I use a RX 65 pro series Beltronic in the car and a escort Passport 9500ix in the truck.

I agree that when you crest a hill and the osifer on the other side is using lazar, pull out the wallet. A jammer is required (a Good Jammer) to get you enough time to slow down.

Alan

This one...

and the reason for the remote display is that my V1 is mounted to the windshield completely behind the rear view mirror from the drivers perspective...actually the rear laser & radar detector peaks bacwards between the rear view mirror and the passenger visor - but the driver can't see this.

alan