My first request...couple questions
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Hi All
Have had almost no time to spend with my new toy since i brought it home a month ago...but i did spend a couple of hours poking around yesterday.( i actually managed to pull apart a power seat switch-clean the contacts -success! thanks to a helpful post i found here)
So my first question is about the first pic i am posting.When i opened up the cover to reveal the fuse/relay panel i found this disconnected.After plugging it back in the car appears to run as though misfiring...unplugged car runs fine(well at least i think its fine).Forgive my complete noobness...but what is it...and what is it telling me?
Second question is about the second pic. Also disconnected is the unit on the right ,when plugged back in...i hear a ticking noise when on the road...ticking becomes slightly more frequent as speed builds but seems to level out...ticking also slows down as you begin to get quite slow.Again..what is it and what is it telling me?
Third question is also about the second pic...the wires that have all been cut...it looks like factory wiring to me...why would someone do this?It looks pretty ominous to a rookie like me.
Thanks in advance for your help
Cheers
Adrian
Have had almost no time to spend with my new toy since i brought it home a month ago...but i did spend a couple of hours poking around yesterday.( i actually managed to pull apart a power seat switch-clean the contacts -success! thanks to a helpful post i found here)
So my first question is about the first pic i am posting.When i opened up the cover to reveal the fuse/relay panel i found this disconnected.After plugging it back in the car appears to run as though misfiring...unplugged car runs fine(well at least i think its fine).Forgive my complete noobness...but what is it...and what is it telling me?
Second question is about the second pic. Also disconnected is the unit on the right ,when plugged back in...i hear a ticking noise when on the road...ticking becomes slightly more frequent as speed builds but seems to level out...ticking also slows down as you begin to get quite slow.Again..what is it and what is it telling me?
Third question is also about the second pic...the wires that have all been cut...it looks like factory wiring to me...why would someone do this?It looks pretty ominous to a rookie like me.
Thanks in advance for your help
Cheers
Adrian
#2
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The wires in teh second photo are for the factory amplifier. Power and speaker wires right there.
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#1 is the o2 sensor. #2 I believe is the factory Amp. I'm pretty sure you need the O2 sensor (may need to be replaced). The Amp was probably hacked out when a new stereo went in, Mine looks kinda like that.
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Adrian,
Welcome.
There should be a black rectangular connector along side the black barrel part of the O2 sensor that should be plugged in at all times. This powers the heater for the O2 sensor. I think these two wires are white and black. If this is also un-plugged, the sensor is now bad and won't function properly even if you plug everything back in. Hope that helps.
Welcome.
There should be a black rectangular connector along side the black barrel part of the O2 sensor that should be plugged in at all times. This powers the heater for the O2 sensor. I think these two wires are white and black. If this is also un-plugged, the sensor is now bad and won't function properly even if you plug everything back in. Hope that helps.
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Second picture is in addition to cut audio wires also the counter for the oxygen sensor (the black box). After x miles it will turn on the OXY dash light. At least my 1980 model had it and did it. The ticking is the "counter" you are hearing. If I remember correctly, it is a 30,000 mile cycle (don't quote me...), and at least on my 1980 model, the counter box had a reset button on it.
When you turn on the ignition, do you see an amber OXY message in the dash during the dash/central warning "test"?
Cheers!
Carl
When you turn on the ignition, do you see an amber OXY message in the dash during the dash/central warning "test"?
Cheers!
Carl
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Mike...went in search of black connector, no sign of anything on the barrel part of the o2 sensor...followed the wire a short distance...nothing.I think i saw a picture of the unit you describe in another post...so i had an idea what to look for.
Carl...when i turn on the ignition with the counter plugged in, i DO get the OXS light in the dash.
What should be my next steps?I kinda just bumped into these issues as i was doing the whole checking the electrical stuff as recommended in the "read me first" thread.(I try to do what i'm told most days :-)
Thanks Fellas
Cheers
Adrian
Carl...when i turn on the ignition with the counter plugged in, i DO get the OXS light in the dash.
What should be my next steps?I kinda just bumped into these issues as i was doing the whole checking the electrical stuff as recommended in the "read me first" thread.(I try to do what i'm told most days :-)
Thanks Fellas
Cheers
Adrian
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Adrian,
After you replace the O2 sensor with a new one, reset the counter, that should take care of the OXS light. All the OXS light tells you is that the counter has reach the Porsche suggested mileage for replacing the O2 sensor. I am guessing the O2 sensor was disconnected for some reason, so best to troubleshoot that first. I would not try to reuse the old one as it is most likely damaged.
Do you smell fuel in the exhaust or engine compartment when it is running? I would suggest getting the car tuned up after O2 replacement, and if the car still has all the original fuel rubber hoses and vacuum lines, I would highly recommend replacing them as there has been a few 928's lost to fires due to old rubber fuel lines.
I am not very familiar with the computer/ignition system on the '82 model but I am sure someone on the list can give you more accurate tuning suggestions. If you do not have the shop manuals, I would recommend that you get them. One visit to a shop will cost you more than a complete set. They are also available on CD from a few vendors.
Good luck!
Carl
90GT Shell in progress
After you replace the O2 sensor with a new one, reset the counter, that should take care of the OXS light. All the OXS light tells you is that the counter has reach the Porsche suggested mileage for replacing the O2 sensor. I am guessing the O2 sensor was disconnected for some reason, so best to troubleshoot that first. I would not try to reuse the old one as it is most likely damaged.
Do you smell fuel in the exhaust or engine compartment when it is running? I would suggest getting the car tuned up after O2 replacement, and if the car still has all the original fuel rubber hoses and vacuum lines, I would highly recommend replacing them as there has been a few 928's lost to fires due to old rubber fuel lines.
I am not very familiar with the computer/ignition system on the '82 model but I am sure someone on the list can give you more accurate tuning suggestions. If you do not have the shop manuals, I would recommend that you get them. One visit to a shop will cost you more than a complete set. They are also available on CD from a few vendors.
Good luck!
Carl
90GT Shell in progress
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Thanks Carl
OK...so new o2 sensor goes on the parts list...but what about the accompanying black rectangular connector? (that Mike talks about above)?
I do think the smell of fuel is "rich" from the exhaust, but i am no expert, so fuel lines and vacuum lines go on my next parts order.
Shop Manuals are on my list.
Thanks
Adrian
OK...so new o2 sensor goes on the parts list...but what about the accompanying black rectangular connector? (that Mike talks about above)?
I do think the smell of fuel is "rich" from the exhaust, but i am no expert, so fuel lines and vacuum lines go on my next parts order.
Shop Manuals are on my list.
Thanks
Adrian
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82's O2 sensors were not heated. It is a single wire O2. I bought a replacement and spliced it in for about $30 from AZ. Probably took me all of about 20 minutes, and I am a slow worker.
#12
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I am not sure of the rectangular black connector, as I can't recall my '80 ever having one. It had a round black connector like the one pictured in pic #1.
I am guessing that the car is running rich because of no O2 sensor input to the computer.
Cheers
Carl
I am guessing that the car is running rich because of no O2 sensor input to the computer.
Cheers
Carl
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fitting a universal O2 may not be the best idea the O2 sensor wire has an airpassage in it crimping it or cutting or soldering it will usually make not function correctly,
I suggest to use the correct plug and play parts for continued operation
I suggest to use the correct plug and play parts for continued operation
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 05-25-2011 at 11:37 PM.
#14
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'82 (L jet cars) do not have the heater on the O2, so it is just the one connector. Replacing it will probably make the car run a little smoother and probably better fuel consumption. Not much tuning you can do. Pretty much just the timing and idle speed, but you will want to check all the hoses and fuel lines. I always felt my '82 ran really nicly at the stock timing position.
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Stan is correct on the Oxygen sensor - the fresh air supply is thru the wire, so using the correct sensor is the best approach.
The oxygen sensor counter has no value whatsoever. Connected or unconnected is your choice, but it has no effect at all on the operation of the sensor, nor does it monitor sensor operation or condition.
The oxygen sensor counter has no value whatsoever. Connected or unconnected is your choice, but it has no effect at all on the operation of the sensor, nor does it monitor sensor operation or condition.