HELP!!!

In the process of replacing engine bay fuel lines & FPR on 86.5 Shark. Unfortunately, directions didnt come with the kit and which hoses to replace has come into question. I have only ONE hose with pressure fittings which I believe is in the front of the engine between the dampner and right fuel rail. The rest is one single length of fuel line hose with multiple clamps so we can cut to fit... All the instructions that i can find on here are for MY 87 or way earlier... so I'm not POSITIVE which lines MUST be replaced. I DONT have a replacement for the infamous "U" line as it has right angle pressure fittings on each end so I'm confused...

ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!

http://s287999742.e-shop.info/shop/p...U1&shop_param=


https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...es-86-5-a.html

The above link shows what needs to be replaced-
look at the last 2 pics for '86.

It's much easier to unbolt the metal line that is held on to the motor over the bellhousing area and do those lines off the car.

While that is off, clean the mounting area & the
wire terminals that go there- they are important ground points.

At the front, the premade line installs easier if you remove the bolt that mounts the right (drivers side) reg bracket to the motor until you
get the new line on .

Which brand lines did you get, are they factory from one of the venders?

Thanks for the links and the advice!!! Really helped... Gotta give a SHOUT TO to Roger! We called him on a Saturday (second time for second tech session) - he returned my call and gave me pointers on how to peel off the hose from the barbed connections and reinstall the fuel hose with clamps. Now THAT is customer service!!!! Yes, all hoses and hose assemblies were provided by Roger and they are spec for multi-fuel types... Engine bay fuel lines all replaced!!! Found ONE bad one... Still working on another Shark's TB replacement... This was a multicar tech session Thanks to all for the help!!!

Just so you know... WYIT you'll find a three-pronged electrical connector at the rear/bottom of the engine near the two "U" fuel hoses, and one three pronged connector at the front/top of the engine near the oil fill, that will completely fall into pieces when you TOUCH them. BUMMER!!! You pretty much have to touch them to remove & replace the fuel line hoses in both locations. We just reconnected them, wrapped with dubious amounts of electrical tape, and wire-tied them together. Yes, it looks amatuerish but on the other hand if the rear one would have completely disconnected we MAY HAVE NEVER found the problem... So far, the fix seems to be holding with no issues. Just thought you guys would like to know.

You should really consider replacing that sensor (it comes with a new connector), if those connections come loose or get corroded, or even wet...you will be dead in the water..at the most inopportune time.

Sensor is not expensive, but if you don't want to replace it, I can supply you with a replacement connector. Just please don't leave it taped up, OR cut/splice your Ex$pen$ive engine harness as it will come back to haunt you some day..or the next owner will voodoo hex you when he finds it .

BTW, I LOVE the look of your 928 in your avatar... can you please link, post or send me some larger pics of it??

Thanks!

You should replace the sensor with the crumbling connector, ASAP. If the Crank Position Sensor connector or wiring is bad, it may not run or run badly.

CPS part number is 94460611500 (Bosch 0261210003), but for less than half the price, you can use a BMW number, 0261210002, which is identical except it has a longer cable. (I have used the BMW # on all of my S3 engines.)


The other sensor, with a connector which attaches to the plenum, can be removed/deleted. It is used with a dealer diagnostic tool which is no longer used.

Joel,
Glad it worked out well. The instructions are also on our web site.

I agree with PorKen - change out the CPS if like DR says it is cracked or crumbling - the alternative CPS we sell for $60. We also have the 2 way and 3 way connectors in stock - both male and female.
Roger

DR, Thanks! That is the way it looked when I bought it and I about fell over it looked so nice I have multiple pics interior / exterior in my photo album on here. I only have one album so it should be easy to find. If you'd like more, please give me a shout with a personal email and I'll attach new ones.

DR, Roger & Ken, I know about the diagnostic connector (its round with a black cover) - its just fine of course... Both problem connectors (front & back) were identical in appearance - black, rectangle, male/female with a flat three prong. Both fit into identical metal brackets. We did the best we could with what we had at the time, which wasnt much... The rear connector wires go off into places unknown (to me) and the front goes into a bundle of purple wires in a black casing routed under the passenger side of the intake... I'll ABSOLUTELY replace them once I figure out exactly what they do, part #, etc... This computer wont let me upload pics The front connector is located in a metal bracket positioned just behind the diagnostic connector. The rear connector is under the airbox, just below and behind the MAF. We had to move it to replace the two "U" fuel hoses and thats when it crumbled...

Any help is GREATLY appreciated!!!

BTW, If you guys couldnt tell... I have NO IDEA what a Crank Position Sensor is... but, I'm learnin'... slowly but surely!!! Actually, I'm tickled pink with the condition this car is in... I've seen soooo many in much worse shape - mechanically & cosmetically