I just bought a week ago. Early Black/Black 86.

First one I saw, or drove! The deal was clinched when I started it! Damn that V8 sounds awesome!!

All original except radio as far as I can tell. 110K (with broken Odometer). PO said that's about right. He had his service records from 97 when he got it. Ouch!! I plan on doing almost all work myself!

Can't believe what some people charge,lol.

Couple of concerns. TB was done, along with about every other part in there, tensioners, WP, etc. in 2005 at 97K. I'm a little worried about the age. Looking at other service receipts it looks as though PO drove about 2-3K a year, so I do think the odometer went out somewhere in the last year as he said. I has been stored heated garage when not in use. Any thoughts, suggestions?

Lots of little electrical gremlins. Right front turn signal, direct short. Blows fuse immediately, no instrument lights, one driving light works, fogs out. Working on those now.

Also, although it worked when I bought it, the hatch won't open! Key doesn't turn in the hatch, tried all of em btw. the motor does work, the little bar goes up and down, but it won't open! Adjusted the motor furthest up and furthest down that I could, no luck. Looks like the white nylon piece should be the key

Been on my belly with various tools and can't figure to push or pull or bang on it! Any help would be appreciated.

That all for now, but I'm sure I'll be back soon as time allows for me to start rehabbing. Great site and looking forward to getting to know you.

jc

 

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thread is...

 

Congrats on your purchase. You'll be plenty busy bringing your baby back to health.

Sounds like cam mechanism that rotates when the motor turns is not pushing the latch on door in far enough or at all. The motor connects to the cam mechanism via a short connector rod. When the rod goes up and down it rotates the cam to push in the notch on the latch. Assuming the spring still has some spring in it the lid should pop loose.

Hope this helps. It took me a while to understand the complexity of this device. Not sure what Gustof was thinking when he designed it.

 

Welcome! Sounds like it could be a very good car.

There is a way to trip the hatch latch directly with a long, thin-bladed screwdriver from inside. Its been a while, but I think you can tap straight back and release it. Search a bit and you will find pictures that show how it moves.

Timing belt / water pump probably makes sense at this point. Certainly removing passenger inspection cover and checking tension / tracking should be early on your list. Ensure the low tension light wire is intact and not bypassed. At least get yourself a baseline on condition. One thing that has changed recently is a collective rejection by most of us of the use of a rebuilt waterpump, so if you do the work, be sure to do some research on that subject.

 

worthless without......

 

Congratulations on your purchase. They're fun cars!

 

Congrats. I would do a TB/WP and clean the grounds and ground strap and CE panel and replace 53 relays.

 

Read the New Visitor thread, lots of primal information there. If it's not in a sleeve on the pass footplate, go to 928gt.com and printout a relay/fuse chart, specific to your MY. Search is your friend on the hatch problem and most other issues; it is here somewhere. There is a limited tech section here, or nicols site: http://www.nichols.nu/tips.htm

Dwaynes garage: he posts here and has great write ups.

Welcome. We need visual proof (pics) that you are an owner. We don't really care, we're just junkies for pics of sharks.

 

you will find all the answers here with a search button. Our 928 are robust, what goes wrong are usually the accessories and electrical, your car will come back to life in no time, welcome!

 

There is a common belief that the belt has a 5-year service life, but Porsche only recommends changing the belt every 60K miles. My experience is the Porsche belts hold up very well over time unless there is a problem leading to excessive wear. The previous owner of my car had it serviced by the dealer by the book, with the timing belt done at 60K miles, water pump left alone. Ten years and 35K miles later, a few years after I bought the car, I did the TB & WP. They looked like brand new. You could read the letters printed on the backside of the belt and the WP pulley bearing behavior was firm and smooth. I've seen lots of "old" low mileage belts since then and unless there was a problem with worn bushings that were not replaced with the belt or a bad water pump, the belts have been fine.

Still, since the consequences of a bad belt or water pump are so serious, I don't fault those who set a timing belt service life time limit, be it 5 or 6 or 7 years. If there are any concerns at all, change it. One reason might be the unknown quality of the earlier job, even though it involved a lot of parts and money.

I pull the side covers and examine the belt every year or 15K miles, when I change the oil. That's my routine (yep, oil and filter change once a year or 15K miles per the maintenance guide). I rotate the engine so I can see the entire belt looking for any signs of wear from water pump pulley drag on the backside of the belt, mis-tracking fraying of the edges, or belt tooth wear. I examine the cam gear teeth for wear-through of the coating. I check the belt tension at TDC cylinder 1. If the belt is frayed at all on the front edge this usually results from bad tensioner arm bushings allowing the arm and tensioner roller to cant inward and the belt to run over the front edge of the roller. You can't see the tensioner roller with the center cover still in-place, so it can be hard to evaluate. If any question, pull the accessory belts, power steering/alternator cassette, the crank pulley and AC pulley so you can remove the center cover and have a better look. This will also allow you to evaluate the crank and oil pump gears for wear.

Since I drive about 10-15K miles each year, my belt gets changed every 4-5 year anyway. With the old belt off I examine the water pump for leaks, firmness of bearings and play. There should be no play in any direction and the pulley should not free-wheel. If good, I leave that alone. I always change the plastic bushings on the tensioner arm and "rebuild" the tensioner, something the dealer may or may not have done. I always replace the main tensioner roller. I clean the idler rollers and make sure they are not frozen, but otherwise I leave them alone. I examine the crank gear (steel - usually not worn), oil pump gear (if aluminum with worn-through coating, I replace it with the steel supersede), look for evidence of oil seal leaks at the crank and oil pump and replace the seals if indicated.

So, inspect the belt and rollers and drive the car a lot more the the previous owner and you won't have to worry about belt service life.

Other things to note: The air filter should be changed with the oil filter (well, 15K miles). The brake fluid should be flushed every 2-3 years. Auto tranny fluid and filter every 30K miles. Many people overlook the latter two and end up with problems. Brake rotors have a 2 mm wear limit. I feel the lip on the rotors' outer edge and when each side gets to 1 mm, replace the rotors. Tie rods and balljoints are likely shot if they have not been replaced. Boots on the steering rack and rear axles should be examined for common splits. Motor mounts and pan gasket are undoubtedly needed if they haven't already been serviced. The vacuum and breather system lines and hoses are usually decrepit if that was not already serviced (requires intake manifold removal). The electrical system is a bit complex (gaze at the CE panel in the passenger footwell), but standard electrical troubleshooting still applies.

Welcome aboard. Enjoy the car.

 

Thanks all. There will be some pics soon. If IT EVER STOPS RAINING HERE!!!! It's a record low "high" temp in the low 50's WITH MORE RAIN! Driving me crazy, I have no room in garage yet, still cleaning up from last project and hadn't had a chance than do more than a quick run through on electrics, check the pads and rubber joints. I just got new rear rotors and pads, ball joint repair kit for the front uppers.BTW, did use a kit on my 86 944NA and it worked great.

I do plan on:
-Checking TB tension
-Draining/CHanging Brakes fluid
-AT Fluid change (did this on my 90 volvo by disconnecting cooler line at radiator and running a couple quarts at a time out, not sure if it will work on this baby.)
-Pulling and cleaning fuse panel, buying some spare 53's apparently

that's when a: it stops raining or b: after I get one side of my garage cleared!

I did attach one long lens pic of my baby. Have to park it next door at my neighbor's (she's dancing in Myrtle Beach till June, but that's another story), till I
get the mulch and the volvo out of here!

BTW, I did buy a CD manual from Britain (bought before I read anything on this site) We'll see how it goes...

 

Also, with a 86+ automatic, definitely check the flexplate and release any accumulated preload ASAP. Check the crank endplay at the same time and record for future reference. Good idea to either install a better TT clamp or release preload every 3-6 months and check endplay once a year. Here's my write-ups on this:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...pictorial.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...xperience.html

As far as I'm concerned, these cars do not tolerate sitting out in the rain well, even overnight. I drive in the rain all the time, but then I park it inside so it dries out. I once left my car outside in heavy rain for several days and everything in the engine compartment, which was pristine, rusted and corroded. There is a drain for the cowl area under the windshield. It's on the firewall near the passenger side - you might be able to see the rubber flap that covers it. If it gets plugged with leaves, water will overflow into the passenger compartment and drench the CE panel and passenger footwell, leading to electrical problems. Maybe that's your problem. I would get the mulch and Volvo out of the garage now.

 

OOOOOHHHH NOOOOOO! Mulch and volvo in driveway, tools, etc, all over garage floor. Damn I;ll work on it tonight.