Rod bearing Q? Should we replace?
#1
Supercharged
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Rod bearing Q? Should we replace?
Working on Rhudy's car today. Popped the bearing caps off on 2-6.
There's a tiny spot of copper at the edge where the bearing halves mate. Thoughts on replacement?
There's a tiny spot of copper at the edge where the bearing halves mate. Thoughts on replacement?
#3
Burning Brakes
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Honestly, I would replace it no matter what. I guess I've never tried to rebuild a 928 engine (yet, it's in the cards at some point), so maybe the cost isn't justified, but while I had the thing apart, I'd do them all just to be sure, especially considering what is known about 2/6 failures. Just my 0.02
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Those should be replaced IMO, and certainly the others should be checked at minimum. Mic' and carefully inspect the crank too. Looks like you might have dodged a bullet.
#6
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The bearing on the right of your upper pictures is fine. Tough to really tell much about the bearings on the left of those two pictures, but it is concerning that there is no longer any "untouched" area near the parting line. This is where the bearings get more eccentric and really shouldn't ever touch the crank.
The two pictures of the upper bearing for #2 show the dirt/loose particle damage from the lack of oil which allowed the bearing to "touch" the crankshaft. I'd replace the bearings in #2, at minimum. Measure them carefully and make sure the replacement bearing is not "tighter" than the existing bearings. You might get a more accurate bearing measurement from the "right" bearing, in the upper pictures.
The two pictures of the upper bearing for #2 show the dirt/loose particle damage from the lack of oil which allowed the bearing to "touch" the crankshaft. I'd replace the bearings in #2, at minimum. Measure them carefully and make sure the replacement bearing is not "tighter" than the existing bearings. You might get a more accurate bearing measurement from the "right" bearing, in the upper pictures.
#7
Captain Obvious
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Honestly, I would replace it no matter what. I guess I've never tried to rebuild a 928 engine (yet, it's in the cards at some point), so maybe the cost isn't justified, but while I had the thing apart, I'd do them all just to be sure, especially considering what is known about 2/6 failures. Just my 0.02
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#8
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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The bearing on the right of your upper pictures is fine. Tough to really tell much about the bearings on the left of those two pictures, but it is concerning that there is no longer any "untouched" area near the parting line. This is where the bearings get more eccentric and really shouldn't ever touch the crank.
The two pictures of the upper bearing for #2 show the dirt/loose particle damage from the lack of oil which allowed the bearing to "touch" the crankshaft. I'd replace the bearings in #2, at minimum. Measure them carefully and make sure the replacement bearing is not "tighter" than the existing bearings. You might get a more accurate bearing measurement from the "right" bearing, in the upper pictures.
The two pictures of the upper bearing for #2 show the dirt/loose particle damage from the lack of oil which allowed the bearing to "touch" the crankshaft. I'd replace the bearings in #2, at minimum. Measure them carefully and make sure the replacement bearing is not "tighter" than the existing bearings. You might get a more accurate bearing measurement from the "right" bearing, in the upper pictures.
This evolved 928 SOP of only checking the #2 and #6 bearings because those are the cylinders that fail the most is flawed logic.
#10
Former Sponsor
AO, Greg missed one important recommendation that drbob stated..... check all the bearings. As we discovered in the Zyclamrot car the #2 and #6 bearings had similar but less wear than what you show. After some deliberations I instructed Greg to check the remaining bearings. Guess what? The #2 and #6 bearings were in the best shape of the eight.
This evolved 928 SOP of only checking the #2 and #6 bearings because those are the cylinders that fail the most is flawed logic.
This evolved 928 SOP of only checking the #2 and #6 bearings because those are the cylinders that fail the most is flawed logic.
Rod bearings are "throw away" items in the automotive world....just not in this little 928 world.....hell, there are people here that talk about re-using gaskets. It would have to be a really really perfect rod bearing for me to remove it and re-use it. And there would have to be a damn good reason to not inspect all of them....like Porsche ran out of new rod nuts.
When we dynoed Andy's engine, we ran it pretty hard. There were two "over-rev" situations where the dyno mysteriously "released" all load and the rev limiter tripped and shut things down. Additionally, there was at least one dyno run where the oil pressure dropped, due to a lack of oil in the pan.
After the dyno tuning, I pulled the oil pan and inspected the rod bearings...just to insure that Andy would start with a really fresh engine. There was a bit more wear than I considered "normal" and I rolled in a new set of bearings, remeasured the rod bolt stretch, and put it all back together.
#11
When you say "rolled in" a new set do you mean simply that you lightly lifted (or pushed) the piston and rod assembly up so that you could clean the rod half of the big end and slip in another rod bearing?
#12
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#15
Drifting
It's a fairly common trick. I helped change the rod bearing out in a Gen III Supra this way. Start to finish we were done in 2 hours.