napa tail sockets
#1
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I just got the Napa tail sockets and can not find the exact wiring. The Nissan plug has black, green and brown wires. The old plug has one brown coming from the topp tail light socket, one brown from the harness and one silver or white coming from the harness. The socket I am working on is the outside lower tail light. Can anyone tell me which wires to hook together. Also do you think this will this fix my dash tail warning light or will I need to bypass it? 87 S4
#2
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I can't tell you about the wiring.
But, did you clean all the contacts (including the front and side light contacts) and replace ALL the bulbs with new correct matching bulbs? I did this and it corrected my dash warning lights. I found I had some mismatched bulbs and corrosion at my side light contacts.
But, did you clean all the contacts (including the front and side light contacts) and replace ALL the bulbs with new correct matching bulbs? I did this and it corrected my dash warning lights. I found I had some mismatched bulbs and corrosion at my side light contacts.
#4
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#5
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I just got the Napa tail sockets and can not find the exact wiring. The Nissan plug has black, green and brown wires. The old plug has one brown coming from the topp tail light socket, one brown from the harness and one silver or white coming from the harness. The socket I am working on is the outside lower tail light. Can anyone tell me which wires to hook together. Also do you think this will this fix my dash tail warning light or will I need to bypass it? 87 S4
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#6
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I have not messed with taillight sockets nor read this linked thread carefully, but the info you seek may be in it (?):
Borland's writeup:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...grade-mod.html
Borland's writeup:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...grade-mod.html
#7
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Here is the picture of the socket I am using for the single filiment tail bulbs. These look like they should be for a two fliliment bulb. Does anyone have the correct Napa part number for the tail bulbs?
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#8
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It's in one of the pics in Borland's thread that I linked: Napa 680-3296.
#9
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You could:
(1) use a dual filament bulb and only wire the low wattage filament to the harness, or
(2) replace the metal can (press fit) and contact spring with one of these single filament cans and contact spring. Available at most automotive supply stores.
(1) use a dual filament bulb and only wire the low wattage filament to the harness, or
(2) replace the metal can (press fit) and contact spring with one of these single filament cans and contact spring. Available at most automotive supply stores.
![](http://autolumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/ba15s2_wm.jpg)
#10
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The 680-3296 is the ones I have. I think using them will do the same as the single filiment one in option #2, it seems to make good contact if I only use a 2 wire hookup. So I am coming to the conclusion that these will work in function with only 2 wires hooked up but will still trigger the warning light without getting the negative wires hooked in a series through the plug. I can get them to light up using both the car brown wires hooked to the black nissan plug wire, and the green nissan plug wire to the silver car wire. What is the best way to defeat the warning light? I have read in a thread that the wires leading to the dash can be upplugged, or do I need to solder the plug harness?
#11
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These instructions below by Ed S. look to be the easiest to do in defeating the bulb warnings. I am a little worried if this will cause trouble with my cruise control though?
Last night, at long last, I finally finished up my LED mods. I'll probably do some kind of write-up pretty soon, to add to the already good write-ups that others (like borland) have done recently. Just one more data point to add to the experience knowledge base.
But... one timely thing that I'd like to add now is that the last thing I did last night was to defeat the bulb control module (mine is a 928.641.603.07 on a '90 S4) using a very easy, non-destructive, perfectly reversable technique. You can probably do this in 30 minutes or so. All you need before you begin is:
a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the carpeted trim piece that, when removed, gives you access to the bulb control module;
a wide wood chisel or putty knife that you can use to pry open the connector to the bulb control module;
needle-nose pliers, to make it very easy to pull out a couple of pins from the connector;
some heat-shrinkable tubing about the size of a drinking straw, to cover the pins after you've removed them
I'll provide some explanation along with photos.
First, here's the lamp control module, after the carpeted piece of trim held on by three Phillips screws has been removed (this is under the dash between the central electric panel and the right-side door, above the LH and EZK modules). You'll want to yank that connector off; it'll probably require a little effort, as it's on there pretty tightly. There are no interlocks; it's just tight. BTW, you don't need to remove the bulb control unit, you just need to unplug the cable.
Once you have the cable unplugged, use some flat, widebladed tool like a putty knife or wood chisel (I used a 3/4-inch wide wood chisel) and pry open the connector along the long edge that isn't hinged; it'll open up, revealing the pins soldered to the wires as shown in the next photo. Be careful when you open this up, because some of the wires and pins might immediately pull out. Cover them with your thumb or something so they don't pop out!
Use your needle-nose pliers to pull out pin 10 (RE/WT wire) to prevent the parking/marker light failure signal from reaching the pod and pull out pin 7 (BK wire) to prevent the brake light failure signal from reaching the pod. Pull them well back and snap the connector shut again, being careful that all the pins are pushed in again (visually confirm this by looking into the pin holes once the connector is closed again; I had two pins that didn't seat properly the first time I did this, and I had to open it up again and fix that).
I then used some clear heat-shrinkable tubing to insulate the pins that I removed from the connector, as shown here.
Reattach the connector to the bulb control module. Test that the bulb control module is working to your satisfaction. Then refasten the carpeted trim piece. You're done. Sleep easily, knowing that you can easily reverse this sometime in the future if you need to.
__________________
'90 928S4 black/black
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Ed Scherer; 03-07-2007 at 01:46 PM.
Last night, at long last, I finally finished up my LED mods. I'll probably do some kind of write-up pretty soon, to add to the already good write-ups that others (like borland) have done recently. Just one more data point to add to the experience knowledge base.
But... one timely thing that I'd like to add now is that the last thing I did last night was to defeat the bulb control module (mine is a 928.641.603.07 on a '90 S4) using a very easy, non-destructive, perfectly reversable technique. You can probably do this in 30 minutes or so. All you need before you begin is:
a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the carpeted trim piece that, when removed, gives you access to the bulb control module;
a wide wood chisel or putty knife that you can use to pry open the connector to the bulb control module;
needle-nose pliers, to make it very easy to pull out a couple of pins from the connector;
some heat-shrinkable tubing about the size of a drinking straw, to cover the pins after you've removed them
I'll provide some explanation along with photos.
First, here's the lamp control module, after the carpeted piece of trim held on by three Phillips screws has been removed (this is under the dash between the central electric panel and the right-side door, above the LH and EZK modules). You'll want to yank that connector off; it'll probably require a little effort, as it's on there pretty tightly. There are no interlocks; it's just tight. BTW, you don't need to remove the bulb control unit, you just need to unplug the cable.
Once you have the cable unplugged, use some flat, widebladed tool like a putty knife or wood chisel (I used a 3/4-inch wide wood chisel) and pry open the connector along the long edge that isn't hinged; it'll open up, revealing the pins soldered to the wires as shown in the next photo. Be careful when you open this up, because some of the wires and pins might immediately pull out. Cover them with your thumb or something so they don't pop out!
Use your needle-nose pliers to pull out pin 10 (RE/WT wire) to prevent the parking/marker light failure signal from reaching the pod and pull out pin 7 (BK wire) to prevent the brake light failure signal from reaching the pod. Pull them well back and snap the connector shut again, being careful that all the pins are pushed in again (visually confirm this by looking into the pin holes once the connector is closed again; I had two pins that didn't seat properly the first time I did this, and I had to open it up again and fix that).
I then used some clear heat-shrinkable tubing to insulate the pins that I removed from the connector, as shown here.
Reattach the connector to the bulb control module. Test that the bulb control module is working to your satisfaction. Then refasten the carpeted trim piece. You're done. Sleep easily, knowing that you can easily reverse this sometime in the future if you need to.
__________________
'90 928S4 black/black
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Ed Scherer; 03-07-2007 at 01:46 PM.
#13
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I do have the correct bulbs from Roger and will not be going to the LED lights at this time. So I guess what I really need now is the best or easiest way to defeat the dash warnings on an 87.
#14
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I took out the the #10 wire on the stop lamp control plug. That defeated the tail warning. I have not done the stop lamp warning which is the #7 wire. Does anyone know if that will have any effect on the cruise?
#15
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No luck gettting the Napa tail sockets to work correctly. I must have some other issues going. The brake light has 3 wires so that should work fine. The problem with using the Napa sockets for the tail light is, sure it also has three wires but the factory wiring has an extra ground. The Napa socket has 2 positive terminals and one ground. So you would think just wire the grounds together, but that is causing a short in my brake light. Actually the brake light will not even work unless the tail lights are hooked up. The only way I can get the brake light to work is with the tail sockets wired in and the tail lights turned off. So obviously I have a short somewhere. Any ideas on where to look?