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MaxJax arrived today

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Old 04-13-2011, 07:55 PM
  #16  
dr bob
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Originally Posted by finally!
Do these raise high enough to park the 928 under it and another car on top when raised?
Not really. The 928 suspension hangs with the bottom of the tires at 36" off the floor, lift pads at 48" off the floor. No telling how much your intended upper/stored car would hang down, but it's unlikely the 928 ill fit. On the MaxJax thread, I shared some more measurements made when the car was up; those might be helpful.
Old 04-13-2011, 10:44 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by martyp
Wow, did you and the delivery guy pick it up and move it? I had problems just sliding it slightly across the floor! Maybe the gravity is less down under?
Gravity works in the opposite direction here.

Why do you think Oprah was so excited to do a show in the Sydney Opera House? She hasn't been that light since high school!

Actually, no, we didn't lift it, but we did slide it across the truck floor to the tail-lift.
Old 04-17-2011, 09:11 PM
  #18  
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Default Progess on install

I had some time today so did a little more on the lift install prep. Started by fully disassembling the shipping skid and doing a rough placement of the columns:

Used a floor jack to support the columns/rams while removing skid frame
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Columns detached from skid and ready to stand up
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Upright and ready to assemble wheels
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Columns roughly in place. This spacing is 128" (outside edge-outside edge) and is dictated by overhead conflicts with the fully extended rams. Notice my hired help in the right foreground - and to think I'm paying room and board!
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:20 PM
  #19  
martyp
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Continued by checking lift arm/pad fit with the cars I want to work with:

Lift arms/pads on free standing columns ready to check fit
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The Sauce fits
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As does the Pasta
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The AcuraSaurus also fits; fortunately all I need to do is swap wheels twice a year - it's too tall for this lift/garage combo
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:32 PM
  #20  
martyp
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Closed out the day (it was beer-thirty anyway) by prepping the floor tiles under the columns for easy removal/replacement:

Lifted the 4 adjacent tiles under each column with a stiff putty knife. It helps if you know which way the loops and tabs run. It worked best for me to insert the putty knife directly on top of a loop and pry so that the tab inside the loop pops out and the tile with the tab then lifts up
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Removed the loops form the lifted section using a dremel with a plastic blade
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Also removed the tabs from the lifted section to ease removal/re-install
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Removed the tabs from the adjacent tiles on the floor. Used the putty knife to hold the tile up away from the concrete while I was cutting with the dremel. The liftable sections are now very easy to take out and put back
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Old 04-18-2011, 06:38 AM
  #21  
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Bastard. I want one.

Couldn't find an emoticon for green with envy.
Old 05-05-2011, 11:26 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jon928se
Bastard. I want one.

Couldn't find an emoticon for green with envy.
Ah, Jon, but I don't have a sail boat. In fact, there is no water here that is worth sailing on - plenty of wind - just no water
Old 05-05-2011, 11:44 PM
  #23  
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Default More progress

I mounted the posts before I did the rest of the assembly - figured that would be the hardest part:

Per the instructions started with the rear center hole, and ran a shop vac while drilling to pick up the dust and debris
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After blowing out the hole with compressed air and re-vacuuming, assembled the anchor seating bolt/nut washers, drove the anchor into the hole with a small sledge, and used a wrench on the nut (turned) and a socket on the bolt (held still) to set the anchor. The instructions said three turns - five or so seemed to work better for me
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The set anchor was still below the surface but snug none the less. Note the grease on the anchor set bolt - tip provided by DrBob
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Reset the lift column, bolted it in place with the first anchor, and drilled the remainder of the holes. I have a confession to make: used an expendable center punch to pop the concrete in the hole center and immediately drilled with a 7/8" bit, bypassing the instructions to drill a pilot with a 5/8" bit first. The guy at Home Depot (rotary hammer/bit rental) suggested this approach and it worked out well. Repeated the pop/drill/clean/anchor set for all remaining holes
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Old 05-05-2011, 11:56 PM
  #24  
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All of the anchors set, and all are still below the surface. Note that the hole edges were almost perfect immediately after drilling, but the edges chipped when driving the anchors into the holes
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Replaced the lift column and torqued the bolts to 90ft/lbs. Per DrBob's tip I'll use 50ft/lbs for subsequent set up - just wanted to make sure the anchors were fully set. Only one of the 10 total anchors (both columns) raised while doing this, and it is just at the surface, so all appears OK
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The column installed and torqued down
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:16 AM
  #25  
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Received the "extra" parts to add length to the hoses. I went ahead and got two 10' hoses with couplers figuring that would give me enough flexibility in portable pump placement. I also ordered some 90 degree elbows to help the hose lay flatter on the floor and reduce the chance of tripping
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The pump assembly had a small wrinkle - the pump body outlet (red plug) is on the opposite side from where the instructions state and flow divider required
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Fortunately the fix was easy - per Danmar tech support, on the flow divider swapped the right hand side inlet plug with the left hand side inlet elbow, resulting in the elbow/hose now being on the needed side. We'll see if it all works out and the circuit breaker holds
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Old 05-08-2011, 11:14 PM
  #26  
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Default Install completion

Finally! Finished the install and used it on the first job (swapped the Mama's winter wheels/tires for summers). Here are the last few shots:

The elbows and extra hose really do help. The hose lays flatter at the posts and off of the flow divider on the pump cart. No leaks at all by following DrBob's tips (earlier in this thread)
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I did have a couple of issues. I managed to push the pump reservoir seal into the reservoir during the initial fill (putting the "cap" back on), so I need to contact Danmar for a replacement. Also, the reservoir is supposed to be ~7 quarts capacity, but mine is full at 6. Good thing it's not any smaller as all 6 are needed with the extra 20' of hose I added - none to spare .
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Bleeding went per the instructions and both sides lift/lower evenly
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I loose a little lift at the top lock point due to the floor tile height off of the concrete
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Old 05-08-2011, 11:18 PM
  #27  
martyp
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The shark on the lift, ready to start those pesky brakes and rear ride height.

The lowest stock lock point
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The highest stock lock point
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Old 05-08-2011, 11:20 PM
  #28  
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Thanks to all here who have provided technical support and encouragement. This really is a great place!


M
Old 05-09-2011, 12:51 AM
  #29  
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Congratulations! That setup looks great.
Old 06-18-2011, 05:05 PM
  #30  
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First , thanks a lot Marty for the valuable informations you give me and thanks Dr bob for your input in this thread. I have a concern. After the installation of the lift I did lift my old BMW 325 a couple of times and after the Porsche. I had no problem at all. But....My first torque on the 10 bolts was 50 ft-pounds. After the lifting all the bolts were loose. I had to re torque everyone of them up to a turn and 3/4 on most of them. But was able to get 50 ft/pounds again... Was it normal to found the bolts so loose....


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