How remove cable plugged into starter solenoid?
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How remove cable plugged into starter solenoid?
I can't get the cable out from the starter solenoid!
While checking the ground points I realised it was barely plugged in. Pulled it out, saw plenty of corrosion, but before cleaning it I plugged it back in and can't get it out again.
Any advice on how it comes out?
While checking the ground points I realised it was barely plugged in. Pulled it out, saw plenty of corrosion, but before cleaning it I plugged it back in and can't get it out again.
Any advice on how it comes out?
#2
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please post a picture
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The solenoid is below the battery start terminal. I assume its the starter solenoid.
(the unattached earth cable (?) is an additional mystery, though it was unattached before I cleaned the GPlll ground point)
(the unattached earth cable (?) is an additional mystery, though it was unattached before I cleaned the GPlll ground point)
#5
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Ahh thats not the starter it is the coil for the right cylinder bank,
glad you posted a picture the suggestions would have been way off.
Try using a pair of curved tip needle nose pliers to pull it straight off.
NOTE when refitting make sure the coil wire is not rubbing on any other parts if it does it will soon short out and cause a misfire ,
if the coil wire has been rubbing consider replacing it
glad you posted a picture the suggestions would have been way off.
Try using a pair of curved tip needle nose pliers to pull it straight off.
NOTE when refitting make sure the coil wire is not rubbing on any other parts if it does it will soon short out and cause a misfire ,
if the coil wire has been rubbing consider replacing it
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 04-02-2011 at 11:16 AM.
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I guess the starter solenoid is under the engine near the starter, like wot I saw when trying to undo (unsucessfully) the engine ground cable. Been one of those days of loosing battles. Hopefully my Victoria Sponge for my guests at teatime, followed by my lamb tagine with quince made earlier today will make the day better!
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A new day, without my cold.
And a clear head makes me wonder why I didn't use my big socket set instead of the frustrating small spanner yesterday? Doh.
Thank you MrMerlin, once again, for words of wisdom.
And a clear head makes me wonder why I didn't use my big socket set instead of the frustrating small spanner yesterday? Doh.
Thank you MrMerlin, once again, for words of wisdom.
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#8
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If you can get the rubber cap to twist a little bit, then wiggle it off with the wire end. Don't pull on the wire itself, though.
Pliers can help as Mr.Merlin said, but don't nick wire or scratch the plastic of the coil because the high voltage will find a way to arc / leak.
Disconnect battery if going any further ( ie, if you are going to actually remove the coil )
Pliers can help as Mr.Merlin said, but don't nick wire or scratch the plastic of the coil because the high voltage will find a way to arc / leak.
Disconnect battery if going any further ( ie, if you are going to actually remove the coil )
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replace coil?
Ok. Ignition coils. My good left side coil and the corroded right side coil.
The bad one (with different tip incidentally): does the Coil and lead need replacing?
The bad one (with different tip incidentally): does the Coil and lead need replacing?
#11
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Good find on that corroded one. Is the end chipped off that coil?
I'd have expected the coil wire to have the design of the one that happens to be corroded.
Somebody familiar with the specifics of a GT needs to speak up about that --- You need the type that click-in.
I'd have expected the coil wire to have the design of the one that happens to be corroded.
Somebody familiar with the specifics of a GT needs to speak up about that --- You need the type that click-in.
#12
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The first and second pictures show the unconnected coil ground wire for the right side coil. It should be attached (grounded) to the engine hoist loop or the coil will not operate. If you are missing the hoist loop you should ground it somewhere else.
It appears the coil wire lead was barely connected (per your description) which let moisture into the contact area and caused the corrosion seen. You should clean the contact surfaces thoroughly and reattach firmly, in all likelihood the lead shouldn't need to be replaced.
It appears the coil wire lead was barely connected (per your description) which let moisture into the contact area and caused the corrosion seen. You should clean the contact surfaces thoroughly and reattach firmly, in all likelihood the lead shouldn't need to be replaced.
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Landseer- yes it's chipped off.
Gearz- that ground wire was unattached before I cleaned the ground point (which did have at least 1 ground cable), so I assume the coil would not have worked at all- meaning only one bank working for a long time. Is that possible?!
Gearz- that ground wire was unattached before I cleaned the ground point (which did have at least 1 ground cable), so I assume the coil would not have worked at all- meaning only one bank working for a long time. Is that possible?!
#14
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The coil grounds were added in 85 and though many of us including me have cleaned them and claimed it cured a no-start, all the references I find say they are simply for radio interference suppression. Not even shown on wiring diagrams. But you should add/reconnect as-advised.
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Geez, I know nothing about about ingition leads, but would assume they would be the same each side. The odd/fried cable plug has different numbers on the rubber to the other 3 plugs.