neilh

81 auto - has anyone tried pulling these auto transmission oil cooler lines apart and replacing the hose, and using regular clamps instead of crimps? What pressure are we talking about on theses lines?
These are the 2 hoses to the end cooler at the radiator .

Randy V

Just bring it to any hydraulic repair shop, Neil.

They will re-use the end connections and crimp on fresh hose.

Much better than using hose clamps.

That's what I have done.

Randy V

Oh, - you can save yourself some money by first cutting off the crimp collars before you bring them to the shop - use a Dremel with a cutting wheel.

Don't turn or remove the fittings, though. You'll want them to be in original position so the shop will 'clock' the new fittings correctly.

BigAl1

Actually my hoses are in this process right now. I pre-measured all my hoses and noted any "clocking" for the fittings. Then cut the crimped ferrule with a Dremel cutting wheel, slit both sides 180deg opposite, and it just folds open. Then you can use a razor knife to cut the hose where it is on the barb. Be careful to not damage the barbs with the blade! Once all the fittings are removed, just clean them and get some good quality 3/8" auto trans coolant line. With the hose lightly installed onto a barb, measure the OD of the rubber hose, then look here http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-s...rrules/=bndq63 for the proper ferrule to use. I have not got to the crimping stage yet as my fittings are out being plated this week. The last detail is to make sure the crimp operation on the ferrule leaves a slight "bell mouth" at the edge of the ferrule so it doesn't cut the hose surface.

jpitman2

Having had mine rebuilt a couple of years ago, couple of observations may be useful. Being in the trade, I took the old units (both tranny and engine lines) to a hose service outlet. Very economical, BUT not much cheaper than genuines, so I suggest you check genuine prices before going too far. Being helpful, the rebuilders added a few mm to the hose lengths, to the point where, to avoid kinking at installation, I had to take 3 (out of 4) back to be shortened. Despite what everybody has told me about new crimps should not be able to be turned (ie the end coupling rotating in the hose) all mine would turn readily, but I have had ZERO leaking or weeping. I think its related to the small diameter involved . When we make large diameter hoses with oriented ends specified, considerable care is taken in the crimping, and in some cases a special jig is made to ensure correct alignments.
Obviously the engine oil hoses would/could be subject to the pressure relief limit (8Bar,130psi), but I dont know what the tranny cooler lines would be subject to.
The other thing to be aware of is minimum lengths for flexible hoses. I know many of the 928's hoses are not really subject to relative movement between the end fittings, but...Our recommended min length is 4 * OD + (min bend radius)/2. Eg for a 0.8" OD hose, it would be 3.2" + 3.5/2 - roughly 5". The min bend radius varies with construction. From memory, and the pic above, the lower tranny cooler hose would be close to this minimum.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

Randy V

You don't like any of these suggestions, Neil?

neilh

Thanks for the nudge,Randy - yes, I'll take them to a repair shop, who did you use in San Diego?
Now I have to rebuild the 14 pin wiring harness, so my progrfess may slow down a bit :-)

Acscorpio9119

does anyone have the part number of the small hose on the picture, it is for a porsche 928S 1983!

Zirconocene

@Acscorpio9119 : That looks like PN 922 307 023 02, from Illustration 308-85 in PET, but you should double check.

Cheers

monkez

+1 on the hydraulic repair shop. Did the same with my hoses. Very reasonably priced and you have an expert doing the repair.

Acscorpio9119

Hi Zirconocene,
You got it right bud! Managed to find it with dealership ! Thanks !